4x4 issues from TIPM?

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DCal110

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2011 Ram 1500 5.7.
Had the infamous turn and no start. Verified fuel relay was bad by bypassing the relay. Everything starts fine now. However, now my 4x4 displays service light and there are no dash lights or anything working.
Here's the fun part. I did multiple resets and it would work for a minute and quit again, but not every time. It would randomly work and then not.
Checked all fuses, checked visible wiring, all good. I have power to module, power to actuator.
I installed new front diff actuator, didn't work, removed and cleaned all connections, nothing.
Then last night I beat on the dash by the selector switch(LOL) and it started working. Took it to a gravel road and verified it was locking. Drove for about an hour and it worked fine. Got in this morning and nothing at all.
My gut is saying TIPM. Any input at all is appreciated.
 

Brandon-w

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Have your battery tested. It sounds stupid but this stuff goes wonky if a battery is failing. Yes it'll start and run fine but if there's a short cell somewhere voltages will be screwed and that'll mese with canbus signals and everything.
 

RamDiver

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I would load test the battery as a first effort.

It has a high probability rate of creating this condition and is almost the least amount of effort to test. Most auto parts stores will load test for no cost.

And don't think that because you replaced your battery last month, it could be exempt from having a bad cell, that's not how these things work. :cool:

I bought my own analogue load tester because they're inexpensive and nice to have in the toolbox. BTW, the analogue beat the digital version as far as being consistently accurate.

battery load tester.jpg



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DCal110

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I will try a new battery. I have spares. I took the tipm out and cleaned connectors. I did not disassemble it though.
 

chopperman1

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This isn't a no start issue. If it cranks fine, the battery is sufficient. This is a subsystem issue, not a battery. My 2cents.
 

RamDiver

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This isn't a no start issue. If it cranks fine, the battery is sufficient. This is a subsystem issue, not a battery. My 2cents.

You may be correct but this isn't about going with the best guess and ignoring standard troubleshooting protocol. The common source of all these systems is the battery.

Sure, the battery is a less likely source of the issue but, it still is a potential problem.

The cost for a load test is $0. The effort is a short drive, if you don't already own a battery load tester.

If the battery isn't responsible, you've confirmed the capability of the battery as excellent, good, or marginal and you can take note of when to check it again or schedule when to replace it.

Opening the TIPM is not something I would ever choose to do until I'm about 95% certain it's necessary. I was once an electronic assembler, I have no fear of any mechanical/electronic interface assemblies but I also know better than to touch something that has the potential to create more grief.

The TIPM is a horrendous design flaw, in my mind. Just taking it apart for inspection has the potential to compromise many circuits. Cold solder joints, corroded and brittle wiring, substandard mechanical attachment, old and tired wire harness, you get the idea, too many variables.

I'm not saying it's something to be feared and avoided but if testing another potentially responsible assembly is painfully easy & free, why not be 95% certain before opening that plastic can of worms?

YMMV

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62Blazer

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When you say "no dash lights", you mean there are no lights on at the 4wd selector knob? And if you bang on the dash by the selector knob it will randomly start working? Kinda' sound like maybe the selector knob or wiring is bad going to the selector. Under the circumstances that would be the first thing I would start looking at. Pull the selector out and test for power going to it.
Also, if you have power at the actuator and module that would probably mean the TIPM is okay. What you are missing is the control signal from the selector.
 
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DCal110

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Battery tested fine.
I took the dash control out I have power going to it. Checked all the connections made sure all the wires were tight put it back in and the 4x4 started working. Drove it for about an hour going through all the ranges. Park the truck and now I have nothing again try disconnecting the switch and reconnecting still nothing. I am really at a loss on this one. I'm pretty much a jack of all trades and there's not much I can't figure out but this one's really got me stumped.
I guess at this point I'll buy a new dash switch and see if that's the problem. Just would rather not continually through $100 at parts that don't fix the problem if I don't have to. Does anybody have a schematic available for the four-wheel drive system? If I had a little more technical data on that I'd have a better chance at finding out where my problem is in the electrical system.
Thank you for all your help
 

RamDiver

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Battery tested fine.
I took the dash control out I have power going to it. Checked all the connections made sure all the wires were tight put it back in and the 4x4 started working. Drove it for about an hour going through all the ranges. Park the truck and now I have nothing again try disconnecting the switch and reconnecting still nothing. I am really at a loss on this one. I'm pretty much a jack of all trades and there's not much I can't figure out but this one's really got me stumped.
I guess at this point I'll buy a new dash switch and see if that's the problem. Just would rather not continually through $100 at parts that don't fix the problem if I don't have to. Does anybody have a schematic available for the four-wheel drive system? If I had a little more technical data on that I'd have a better chance at finding out where my problem is in the electrical system.
Thank you for all your help

I would advise against firing the parts cannon. There's not much point in replacing parts before proving them as faulty and you might spend significant $ and never fix the problem.

The fact that everything functioned correctly after working in that area and if you have found beating on the dash also solved the dilemma (I don't recommend using that technique), this tells me you likely have a bad connection or possibly an intermittent short that's preventing the system from functioning.

Searching for intermittent faults can be taxing and time-consuming. You may have to verify continuity, wire by wire. That, or expose the wiring harness coming from the 4x4 module and carefully try applying pressure, this way and that, while monitoring the switch function until you find a correlation.

Then narrow the number of wires you move at one time, trying to reduce the number of variables until hopefully, you find that 1 wire that makes or breaks the system functionality.

See if you can locate any useful schematics from this link.



The Service Manuals that Ian has listed are PDF and can be word-searched using a browser or your favourite PDF viewer.


On a Windoze PC, load the PDF and press Control F for the word search utility.

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