95 Dodge Engine Engine Barely runs, no power

[Robeffy]

Hey all,
I took my truck in to get the trans serviced, it shifted badly between 2nd and 3rd.

While the shop was testing the trans, they said it suddenly showed Check Engine, and started to run bad, so bad it was shuddering and they couldn't drive any further.

I had it towed home, and it barely starts unless you floor the gas pedal. Once it starts, it shakes, it's missing, does not rev up properly, barely idles, wants to stall, has no power and stalls as soon as you try to put it into gear.

To me, it feels like the timing is bad.

I will get a chance to look at it better tomorrow.

No sign of oil leaks, no funny ticking or clunks even at 2000 rpm. The trans shop had to remove the oil filter, the oil level is up, the oil pressure is good. I found 1 vacuum line not connected so far.

I am going to check the spark plug wires are routed properly, and the distributor cap for starters. They did remove and replace the trans, so who knows what they did up near distributor / behind the intake.

I saw and read how to check the Camshaft position sensor, will give that a try.

 

[Yeret]

Have you checked the computer for codes?

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

Wonder if it jumped timing, check by remove distributor cap, put a breaker bar on the crank and move it back and forth and see how long the rotor moves when rotating, also check the magnetic pick up in the distributor it could be bad or have no air gap, check with brass feeler gauge!

 

[Daw14]

Wonder if it jumped timing, check by remove distributor cap, put a breaker bar on the crank and move it back and forth and see how long the rotor moves when rotating, also check the magnetic pick up in the distributor it could be bad or have no air gap, check with brass feeler gaug

 

[Robeffy]

Have you checked the computer for codes?

its an OBD 1 machine, so, how would I check for codes? I used to have a Jeep Cherokee, OBD1, and you did some process with the ignition key and counted something on the dash... my memory is pretty bad... I'll see what I can find on reading codes on OBD1..

 

[Robeffy]

Wonder if it jumped timing, check by remove distributor cap, put a breaker bar on the crank and move it back and forth and see how long the rotor moves when rotating, also check the magnetic pick up in the distributor it could be bad or have no air gap, check with brass feeler gauge!

Right, I can do this. I hope to get at it tomorrow, so many other things going on lately. I ordered a Digital Multimeter with a set of leads to probe the wires to the cam position sensor, that should arrive by Thursday / Friday. I can check your idea with my wife looking at the distributor. Should be no play..

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

at the distributor. Should be no play..

Correct little or no play, and you need a OBD1 code reader.

 

[Robeffy]

Have you checked the computer for codes?

Well, just checked for the codes, thanks for the reminder!
My codes show 37 - Part Throttle Unlock Circuit and also 21 Oxygen Sensor Signal.

Now to see what that means..

 

[Robeffy]

Correct little or no play, and you need a OBD1 code reader.

Okay, I did the sequence of shutting the ignition on and off, and have 2 codes showing, 37 = Part Throttle Unlock circuit and 21 = Oxygen sensor signal

 

[Robeffy]

I also did another test, after diagnosing the O2 sensor, I unplugged it and the engine ran no different, just as bad as before... To me that means the O2 sensor is likely not working.

 

[18CrewDually]

Code 37 is for Torque Converter lockup solenoid, which could of been set by them unplugging it when they were "diagnosing". Also check fuse #9 make sure it's not blown.

For your symptom I'd check fuel pressure. There is an internal intank filter
on the return less system that started in 1994. An issue with these era of engines, especially since alcohol added fuels, is rust in the fuel rail from water settling there. The rust will break off and clog injectors making it run bad or not at all. I did a YouTube video long ago demonstrating an injector that fell victim to this.

Dakota Injector

Example of clogged injector due to rust deposits within the steel fuel rail tube. The test is performed with the injectors still attached to the fuel rail & ...

youtu.be

Just a suggestion. Also a bad O2 will not stop it from running.

 

[Robeffy]

Code 37 is for Torque Converter lockup solenoid, which could of been set by them unplugging it when they were "diagnosing". Also check fuse #9 make sure it's not blown.

For your symptom I'd check fuel pressure. There is an internal intank filter
on the return less system that started in 1994. An issue with these era of engines, especially since alcohol added fuels, is rust in the fuel rail from water settling there. The rust will break off and clog injectors making it run bad or not at all. I did a YouTube video long ago demonstrating an injector that fell victim to this.

Dakota Injector

Example of clogged injector due to rust deposits within the steel fuel rail tube. The test is performed with the injectors still attached to the fuel rail & ...

youtu.be

Just a suggestion. Also a bad O2 will not stop it from running.

Well, I replaced the O2 sensor, and it changed nothing. I read up on this, and, yes, the truck goes into a default mode and will keep on running.
Now, I checked that I am getting a reading from the O2 Sensor, that ranges from .06 when the key is just turned on ( the engine is not running ) to 1.05 with the engine running for atleast 2 minutes at 2000 rpm, to make sure its warm. When the engine is turned off, the reading slowly drops.
The motor is running, is still missing, and some times it idles, now it doesn't idle? For a bit, it idled at 950 rpm....
I looked at the spark plugs, pulled 3 of them, and all were black, soot covered.
Going to look into the rest of the sensors on the throttle body, its like its running rich. It revs up great to 5000 rpm, does not seem to miss while revving up.

 

[GTyankee]

you can try being sneaky

Use a Mopar 02 sensor
to get more oxygen, buy a 02 sensor extension

I think there are chemicals to partially clean your Catalytic converter
& there are also injector cleansers

 

[Robeffy]

you can try being sneaky

Use a Mopar 02 sensor
to get more oxygen, buy a 02 sensor extension

I think there are chemicals to partially clean your Catalytic converter
& there are also injector cleansers

I installed a NTK sensor, and i will look up what a sensor extension is.

My cat was replaced within the last year.

I am going to remove and clean the throttle body tomorrow, weather permitting, and will look up ways to check the IAC, MAP and TPS. I doubt its the TPS.

I still have to see if I can check the magnetic pickup in the distributor, its just nearly impossible to see it, let alone work on it.

 

[GTyankee]

i looked at the extender again
the first site read that it pulled oxygen into the system. making the CC run cooler

BUT

this site reads different & besides, you mentioned that the CC was recently replaced, so it should be good to go.

https://www.aliexpress.com/i/3256802159116734.html?gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt

Look for another possible cause, besides the CC

 

[pacofortacos]

If they pulled the trans, I would look at the crank sensor more than the cam sensor.

 

[Robeffy]

i looked at the extender again
the first site read that it pulled oxygen into the system. making the CC run cooler

BUT

this site reads different & besides, you mentioned that the CC was recently replaced, so it should be good to go.

https://www.aliexpress.com/i/3256802159116734.html?gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt

Look for another possible cause, besides the CC

I cleaned and looked at the IAC, TPS and MAP. Did not do any electrical testing on them. Nothing is wrong, but the inside of the throttle body was really coated with black. Pretty soon it goes to the mechanic... It's down to a miss all the way up to 2500 rpm, have to floor it to start it, and still no power. It does run smoother for cleaning the throttle body. I am starting to lean towards the cam sensor or crank sensor.

 

[Robeffy]

If they pulled the trans, I would look at the crank sensor more than the cam sensor.

Ya, today I looked the throttle body, removed and cleaned it, it runs better for it. Did not do any electrical testing. I was able to see the IAC solenoid extend and retract when the key was turned to run, and I replaced that a few years ago.
I am leaning towards camshaft or crankshaft sensor, or maybe even plugs / cap / rotor.
I am scheduled to take it to the mechanic soon, and I find I can barely get to anything back there. Most likely will let him sort it out.
Wish I had my 76 Dodge ... slant six, simple, easy to work on, not like this one.

 

[18CrewDually]

If the crank sensor was bad it would not start at all since it would have no spark at all because the ECM needs a crank signal before anything else occurs.

 

[pacofortacos]

If the crank sensor was bad it would not start at all since it would have no spark at all because the ECM needs a crank signal before anything else occurs.

If it was bad - true. But if it is bent, it might act like he is describing as it might not get a clean signal past every hole.