FatsoMio
Junior Member
BACK UP CAMERA 56054164Ax - RAM 1500 5,7L – 4WD - 2011/12 - 56054164Ax
Check if there is power to the camera connector in your tailgate.
Check the fusebox at M14 - 20A fuse (yellow)
Just to make sure it is not a fuse
Do not take all connectors apart - try the following one first
It's the camera itself . . it is a lousy manufacturing problem (the pins inside soldered to the camera board brake loose) – almost impossible for the regular guy to see and fix this problem, but keep reading . . . I am sure one or the other will work on this and save themselves 300,00 to 500,00$
have your grlfr or wife or anybody sit in the car, start your engine, put it in reverse, then turn the key off one notch (this prevents any wrong move that she/he rolls over you). This still keeps all backup functions working (including your no view camera)
all lights are still on - - rear backup is engaged - (and yes, your bell is ringing of the hook)
take the cable close to the camera (inlet) - - there you can see, there is a plug in into the camera. but this entire plug is double sealed and plasticized.
I pushed the cable (take it tightly) close to the camera and push it in. More then likely will there be a 1mm or so gap - Once you keep holding it (pushed in) your camera should show up on the screen again.
I took the entire molded casing of with a carpet or razor knife, a scalpell does better, it is easier to handle (be careful) there are two side clips, they are supposed to hold the connector onto the five or six pins which are soldered to the board (these came all loose) and they do not stay to make contact. More then likely does that have to do with the opening and closing of the tailgate. . .
I cut all the plastic molded parts of and the plug came off - you can then see the board and the pin's receptacles (just little soldering dots on the board). The pins are more then likely stuck inside the connectore on the cable.
Here it would be advised not to wriggle too much as you might connect to the adjacent pin and fry your board - that might cost you between 300,00 and 500,00$ . .
The solution might be to check the entry cable which wiggles a little . . hold it in place (pushed in) make sure you have a camera viewing, put a drop or two of super glue on the gap of the cable and its molded housing and see if it holds. It does the job – if only one or two pins are broken, but it is only for a short time. . . I found that out numerous times . . .
If you fried the board (not that you see it) you certainly can smell the little burned plastic and chip smell . . .
Another advise, when you take the camera of, take it to your workbench and use a magnifying lamp and tweezers to hold the entire thing in place. This is not a rough workshop job
UPDATE - 2022-06-06
After cutting away the hard plastic mold around the connector to the camera, I realized that in fact there where pins on the camera board. But these pins where all broken of at the soldering place of the board and where stuck in the connector itself. I don't know if you can see enough in the pictures. For an electronic guy to solder these pins into place again, should not be a problem at all - it is a very fine job and most likely has to be performed with a magnifying glass/lamp
The following pictures show the housing being cut apart (not really recommended – but there is no other way to get to the broken pins)
1) cut away all mold-in-place plastic which sealed the entire inside hermetically of
2) the cut away pin connector with the pins (which where supposed to be on the board) still stuck into place
3) one of the pins pulled out of the pinholder (the last one to the right)
That is what you have to solder back into place
Engineering wise: the board should have had pinholes in it where these little pins would have been soldered into place, giving them a lot more hold, instead of just superficial holding, with the result that after the 3 year warranty these pins brake of and that is where your intermittent contact comes from
(besides a broken fuse) which is more then likely not the case
If anyone is up to this task to solder these pins back into place, I would like to hear and maybe repair mine (I do not have the soldering station to do this fine operation)
Thanks for leaving your comments and I hope this helps others
Here the original Product Description
Rearview Backup Camera
This New Mopar OEM factory condition Rearview Backup Camera is compatible with the following vehicles:
2009 - 2012 Dodge Ram 1500
2009 - 2012 Dodge Ram 2500
2009 - 2012 Dodge Ram 3500
Manufacturers Part #: 56054164AD
Backup Camera does not work anymore, comes on and is off again . . . . |
Check the fusebox at M14 - 20A fuse (yellow)
Just to make sure it is not a fuse
Do not take all connectors apart - try the following one first
It's the camera itself . . it is a lousy manufacturing problem (the pins inside soldered to the camera board brake loose) – almost impossible for the regular guy to see and fix this problem, but keep reading . . . I am sure one or the other will work on this and save themselves 300,00 to 500,00$
have your grlfr or wife or anybody sit in the car, start your engine, put it in reverse, then turn the key off one notch (this prevents any wrong move that she/he rolls over you). This still keeps all backup functions working (including your no view camera)
all lights are still on - - rear backup is engaged - (and yes, your bell is ringing of the hook)
take the cable close to the camera (inlet) - - there you can see, there is a plug in into the camera. but this entire plug is double sealed and plasticized.
I pushed the cable (take it tightly) close to the camera and push it in. More then likely will there be a 1mm or so gap - Once you keep holding it (pushed in) your camera should show up on the screen again.
I took the entire molded casing of with a carpet or razor knife, a scalpell does better, it is easier to handle (be careful) there are two side clips, they are supposed to hold the connector onto the five or six pins which are soldered to the board (these came all loose) and they do not stay to make contact. More then likely does that have to do with the opening and closing of the tailgate. . .
I cut all the plastic molded parts of and the plug came off - you can then see the board and the pin's receptacles (just little soldering dots on the board). The pins are more then likely stuck inside the connectore on the cable.
Here it would be advised not to wriggle too much as you might connect to the adjacent pin and fry your board - that might cost you between 300,00 and 500,00$ . .
The solution might be to check the entry cable which wiggles a little . . hold it in place (pushed in) make sure you have a camera viewing, put a drop or two of super glue on the gap of the cable and its molded housing and see if it holds. It does the job – if only one or two pins are broken, but it is only for a short time. . . I found that out numerous times . . .
If you fried the board (not that you see it) you certainly can smell the little burned plastic and chip smell . . .
Another advise, when you take the camera of, take it to your workbench and use a magnifying lamp and tweezers to hold the entire thing in place. This is not a rough workshop job
UPDATE - 2022-06-06
After cutting away the hard plastic mold around the connector to the camera, I realized that in fact there where pins on the camera board. But these pins where all broken of at the soldering place of the board and where stuck in the connector itself. I don't know if you can see enough in the pictures. For an electronic guy to solder these pins into place again, should not be a problem at all - it is a very fine job and most likely has to be performed with a magnifying glass/lamp
The following pictures show the housing being cut apart (not really recommended – but there is no other way to get to the broken pins)
1) cut away all mold-in-place plastic which sealed the entire inside hermetically of
2) the cut away pin connector with the pins (which where supposed to be on the board) still stuck into place
3) one of the pins pulled out of the pinholder (the last one to the right)
That is what you have to solder back into place
Engineering wise: the board should have had pinholes in it where these little pins would have been soldered into place, giving them a lot more hold, instead of just superficial holding, with the result that after the 3 year warranty these pins brake of and that is where your intermittent contact comes from
(besides a broken fuse) which is more then likely not the case
If anyone is up to this task to solder these pins back into place, I would like to hear and maybe repair mine (I do not have the soldering station to do this fine operation)
Thanks for leaving your comments and I hope this helps others
Here the original Product Description
Rearview Backup Camera
This New Mopar OEM factory condition Rearview Backup Camera is compatible with the following vehicles:
2009 - 2012 Dodge Ram 1500
2009 - 2012 Dodge Ram 2500
2009 - 2012 Dodge Ram 3500
Manufacturers Part #: 56054164AD
Product information / Technical Details
Manufacturer | Mopar |
---|---|
Brand | Mopar |
Item Weight | 1 pounds |
Package Dimensions | 7 x 7 x 4 inches |
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
Manufacturer Part Number | 56054164AD.4 |
OEM Part Number | 56054041AD, 56054041AC, 56054041AB, 56054164AC, 56054164AB, 56054164AA, 56054164AD, |