Cooling System Refuses to bleed

[Lifted92]

I would first burp the hoses going to the heater, maybe removing the hoses as close to the water pump as you can, maybe tie the ends up above the radiator, then take a water hose & a nozzle & put the nozzle into the return hose & turn on the water valve on to a low pressure, until clear water comes out of the supply line.
Then pinch off the heater hoses with either hose crimps or needle nose vice grips that have tape wrapped around the metal teeth.
Then slip the heater hoses back on & tighten them back up.
That should insure that no air is in those hoses or the heater.

If that does not get rid of the air bubbles, then you have a leak somewhere. In that case i would think about using DYE to find the leak

Thanks for the response, Do you know which hose is supply and return? and which fitting it corresponds to on the water pump? I have also heard of unhooking the return line and waiting for it to push coolant out. This will be the next thing we try. I also never lose coolant on the ground once the system is closed so I'm not sure where a leak would be

 

[GTyankee]

When the engine has been running for a while, grab the heater hoses.
One of the hoses should be hotter than the other one.

The hotter hose will be the supply hose

 

[Lifted92]

When the engine has been running for a while, grab the heater hoses.
One of the hoses should be hotter than the other one.

The hotter hose will be the supply hose

The supply hose should be the one going to the heater pipe/bypass correct? It was brought up that there may be a chance the hoses were hooked up incorrectly when the waterpump was replaced originally

 

[GTyankee]

Supply hose would be connected up to the water pump,
I would have to look at the vehicle to say for sure which hose is which

 

[Lifted92]

Supply hose would be connected up to the water pump, i would think

They both go to the water pump. One hose fitting goes to the bypass tube and one goes to the lower rad hose housing

 

[LoneWolf3574]

The lower of the hoses on your radiator is the supply to your coolant pump and the upper/higher radiator hose is the return to your radiator after your thermostat. Orientation-wise, the upper is located on the driver side and the lower is on the passenger side.

 

[Lifted92]

The lower of the hoses on your radiator is the supply to your coolant pump and the upper/higher radiator hose is the return to your radiator after your thermostat. Orientation-wise, the upper is located on the driver side and the lower is on the passenger side.

Thanks, I was trying to figure out which heater core hose should go to which port in the waterpump

 

[pacofortacos]

I think the heater hose going to the lower rad hose is the "out" (return from the heater core to water pump).

 

[Lifted92]

I think the heater hose going to the lower rad hose is the "out" (return from the heater core to water pump).

That would make the most sense to me as they would return in the same place, I just wanted to make sure Thanks!

 

[Lifted92]

Another Update, The radiator has since been replaced and the heater core back flushed a couple times even filling it with coolant by hand (nothing much come out during flushing). The overheating issue is now gone, however I still have no heat and the temp fluctuates while driving. It will be at operating temp (203°) and slowly heat up to 210° - 215° and then drop like a rock back down to operating temp. each cycle takes a couple minutes. I'm going to try replacing the thermostat again but with a mopar one this time. It would be my luck to get 2 bad thermostats. Thanks for the help fellas

 

[LoneWolf3574]

I'm going to try replacing the thermostat again but with a Mopar one this time. It would be my luck to get 2 bad thermostats. Thanks for the help fellas

I did the same after watching my temp stay around 208F year-round. I had a Stant 203F before switching back to a MOPAR thermostat. When I pulled it, I found that the rubber seat had torn free from around the dongle. Something to remember about the Mopar thermostat is that they list it as 195/203F, this means that it starts to open at 195F and fully opens by 203F. You will see temps go up to ~208F after initial startup, but they usually stabilize to 201-203F when going 60-65mph.

 

[Oldtownmarine]

Thanks for the help on this guys, but the plot thickens as we have found some more strange symptoms. We replaced the new thermostat with a new NEW thermostat hoping that might be part of the issue but it was not. But we have noticed the following things,

1. The passenger side heat gets hot but the driver doesn't. if you switch the location it blows it will get cool on both sides until the engine hits about 3000-4000 RPM and the passenger side will get hot again

2. The last test drive it got hot (halfway between operating temp ang H on the gauge) but it never did over heat

3. When I would stop and take off hitting 5000+ RPM I could physically see the temp gauge drop by a small margin

At this point the only thing we can possibly figure is that maybe the impeller is slipping on the shaft and not moving enough coolant combined with a large air pocket.

Anyone wanna buy a truck? LOL

Man, I know this is a year or two ago but I am having the exact same issues with my 2016 Ram Truck 5.7 Hemi.

Did you ever figure it out!?

Changed the water pump (twice), changed the thermostats, ran without a thermostat, thought it was a blown head gasket but that test came back negative, coolant sensor was a bit shot, replaced that, still broke! ITs like it’s not pushing fluid, or is intermittently. To make matters for frustrating… when I look at the first water pump we put on, it looks like the damn’d impeller blades are spinning the wrong way. I know this can’t be the case, because I’ve watched 10 YouTube videos of people installing the same pump, but, it’s not pushing coolant. Driving me absolutely bat sh*t crazy.