Dash lights and backlight for instrument LED screen wont go out

[C-Salt]

Thank you Mpgrimm2. I believe I've narrowed it to the F51 circuit. Removing F51 reduces my voltage drops from 7 fuses down to two, with only .1mV each for a current draw total of 26mA. Much better than the 789mA I am getting with F51 installed. Now my conundrum is getting to the the modules/connectors to isolate this further. I have disconnected I315 with no change. I am pondering if in fact I am on the right track to follow this to the Radio Frequency Hub or the Connector Star Can IP, and then how to access each. Any thoughts/suggestions?

 

[Mpgrimm2]

Based on this thread, I would recommend you start with cleaning/reseating connectors under the hood especially ones closer to the firewall. The only way I know of to find actual connector locations is to sign up for a TechAuthority 3 day account where it will show you the location (x-ray view) when to click on it. I only know a few off hand without it.

M² Mods.

 

[C-Salt]

The problem has been solved!! (Or at least isolated)
Removed the data connector from the Autostart module and no Amperage draw with all systems functioning as advertised. Truck now sleeps through the night as well will I. Thank you for your assistance.

 

[Richard Rault]

Okay, not very well-versed in fuses, etc, but my 2014 Ram 1500 5.7L V8, started this today. Take the key out of the ignition, radio ***** off after 30 seconds or so. Usually, the dash lights will shut off, too, but now they stay on. Dead giveaway that something was wrong is that the radio has about a 30 minute ‘memory’ to rewind the satellite, etc. at this time, it has the full 60 minutes in the hard drive
Any ideas what to tell someone tomorrow? Is it a fuse? Not going to be disconnecting things. Of course it happens on a Friday night
I appreciate any suggestions in “layman’s terms”
Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[baldnut]

2019 Bighorn with the same problem. Only started since I had LPG Gas conversion done last week, happened twice.

Engine Management light came on, I closed door and locked the car and dash cluster stays on. Pressed it again, waited and after 30 seconds cluster went off but then came back on around 10 seconds later.

Do you think I would be right in guessing this has been caused by the LPG guy connecting to an incorrect live wire? I have ordered a multitester off amazon to try and diagnose, I also have a modified PCM and tuner ordered from Diablo Sport as I need to increase the engine idle time as the gas needs more idle revs as the engine has stalled a couple of times. (Current idle rate is around 500rpm).

 

[northvibe]

I have a 2019 Classic 1500 big horn and this just was noticeable this evening. I have 15k miles but it is parked outside and being in north MN snow/rain etc.

I have checked all doors and unplugged the phone usb, still happening.

I'll go check the I-230 plug and heater module but this is the start of something frustrating....

 

[northvibe]

Pulled the negative battery terminal last night, let it sit for 2 minutes. And tried again. Cluster was shutting off as it should.

I checked the connectors under the hood and they looked fine/dry. I’ll keep and eye and see if this pops up again.

 

[Tony Casazza]

I have a 2013 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4. Last night I noticed that my dash cluster lights, just the dash, do not go off after I get out and remote lock the vehicle. I watched the dash from outside the truck and noticed that after about 30 seconds, all 4 lights on my drive selector knob (Park, Reverse, Newtral, Drive) flash for a second, then go off. This repeats constantly about every 30-40 seconds. All the functions in the truck work fine.

I've read through this lengthy posting and appreciate everyone's comments. What would be the 3-4 things I could try to fix this issue? I am not a mechanic but I have done oil changes and brakes on this vehicle. I have already tried removing fuse F84 and this did not correct the issue.

Feedback very much appreciated.

 

[FriedDumpling]

I have a 2013 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4. Last night I noticed that my dash cluster lights, just the dash, do not go off after I get out and remote lock the vehicle. I watched the dash from outside the truck and noticed that after about 30 seconds, all 4 lights on my drive selector knob (Park, Reverse, Newtral, Drive) flash for a second, then go off. This repeats constantly about every 30-40 seconds. All the functions in the truck work fine.

I've read through this lengthy posting and appreciate everyone's comments. What would be the 3-4 things I could try to fix this issue? I am not a mechanic but I have done oil changes and brakes on this vehicle. I have already tried removing fuse F84 and this did not correct the issue.

Feedback very much appreciated.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[northvibe]

I have a 2013 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4. Last night I noticed that my dash cluster lights, just the dash, do not go off after I get out and remote lock the vehicle. I watched the dash from outside the truck and noticed that after about 30 seconds, all 4 lights on my drive selector knob (Park, Reverse, Newtral, Drive) flash for a second, then go off. This repeats constantly about every 30-40 seconds. All the functions in the truck work fine.

I've read through this lengthy posting and appreciate everyone's comments. What would be the 3-4 things I could try to fix this issue? I am not a mechanic but I have done oil changes and brakes on this vehicle. I have already tried removing fuse F84 and this did not correct the issue.

Feedback very much appreciated.

This is the same thing I had. I took a video but am having YouTube issues.

I tried fuse 84, nothing. But disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, solved it. Haven’t seen it light up again.

However checking the plugs and making sure they aren’t corroded or full of something. One under the hood on the passenger side along the firewall below the wipers. and the other is the one on the side of the glove box. In this thread is how to access that, I forgot if it is the hvac module...

 

[GetRDRC]

I have described issue but only after remote start. Till i get door opened, uconnect display, instrument cluster backlight and start/stop button illumination are not go down.
What should i try at first? I am from Russia and there is no official dealers and warranty.
RAM 2500 2017

 

[northvibe]

Try disconnecting the battery for ~5minutes and see if that helps. Sounds like there are a few maybe solutions For some but not a solution for everyone

 

[Towmanzach]

I have 2014 ram 1500 I’m having the dash light and shifter light staying on and draining battery. any updates on where to start

 

[Towmanzach]

OK, sonloch nailed it!!! I was having issues with battery drain overnight and today I caught the power drain and while trouble shooting saw the instrument cluster lights were on (had not seen that before). I pulled the F60 fuse and after the timeout the instrument lights went out. FYI, the F60 is for the under hood light that I don't have... go figure... I pulled the battery power, opened up the I-230 connector and lots of water came out. I also saw corrosion which I cleaned up. I used compressed air and blew more water out of the connector. We have had a lot of wet rain, snow lately. I suspect there were other symptoms like the the truck unlocked overnight (I have power door locks) and I had a 'check shiftier' error one day. I have a photos of the connector, if I could just figure out how to attach.
FYI, I love my truck. My wife loves my truck. This is the 4th truck I have owned and the best one so far.

Can you give me a location of the I-230 connector

 

[northvibe]

Can you give me a location of the I-230 connector

If you read the thread in its entirety I think someone says it. But iirc, open the passenger door and it is in the panel between the glove box and door. Otherwise there is also a connector in the engine bay, on the passenger side of the engine at the firewall.

 

[BK24]

Morning all. I'm in the same boat. 2015 Rebel. I hadn't driven it in a little over a week and yesterday it was graveyard dead. Jumped it off and drove it about 140 miles round trip and it seemed fully charged. Alt was working and battery tested good. This morning I had to jump it off again. Got to work and an hour later I noticed my gauges were still lit up. As it's a 15 and not in warranty I've screen shorted every suggestion through this 14 page post of things to try. My initial question is would my battery seeming to be dead yesterday actually have been fully dead to constitute the same effect as unhooking it to reboot so to speak. When I jumped it the radio still had all it's stations and the time was correct so I assumed it had an internal battery holding settings. Any other known fixes not previously listed would be appreciated. I'm going to be laid off because of this virus and can't afford a dealership bill for something that isn't a definite cause. Thanks!!

 

[northvibe]

Morning all. I'm in the same boat. 2015 Rebel. I hadn't driven it in a little over a week and yesterday it was graveyard dead. Jumped it off and drove it about 140 miles round trip and it seemed fully charged. Alt was working and battery tested good. This morning I had to jump it off again. Got to work and an hour later I noticed my gauges were still lit up. As it's a 15 and not in warranty I've screen shorted every suggestion through this 14 page post of things to try. My initial question is would my battery seeming to be dead yesterday actually have been fully dead to constitute the same effect as unhooking it to reboot so to speak. When I jumped it the radio still had all it's stations and the time was correct so I assumed it had an internal battery holding settings. Any other known fixes not previously listed would be appreciated. I'm going to be laid off because of this virus and can't afford a dealership bill for something that isn't a definite cause. Thanks!!

If you checked the connectors suggested and they are clean or good. You could wire a battery shut off switch as the cheap fix at least for now... so when you turn the vehicle off, hit the battery off switch so the truck would be fully dead until you came back, used your key to physically unlock the door and turn the battery back on :/

 

[BK24]

I tried it multiple times removing and reinserting the fuse, opening and closing the hood. The 2 lights around the rpm and speedo stay lit up when the hood light fuse is in. That's a battle for another day.

 

[northvibe]

There’s the plug on the passenger size glove box hole, and the plug on the passenger size firewall.

I unplugged the battery, left it for 5 min, plugged it back in. It hasn’t happened again that I know of :/ but it probably will

 

[FD213]

Good morning all,

Same problem on my 2016...traced it back to the AC Heat Module since I had the 3rd brake light leak. Anywho I found a replacement module that came out of a salvage. Other than the obvious such as water damage and other, I want to see if this will work.

IE does the AC and Heat Module need to be blank and flashed to the VIN if it's the same MOPAR part number?