OlDirtyJohn
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2010
- Posts
- 1,518
- Reaction score
- 50
- Location
- Naha-shi, Okinawa, Japan
- Ram Year
- 2004 Quad Cab 2500 *Sold*
- Engine
- Hemi 5.7
This is a quick tutorial on installing a Torque Converter. The vehicle shown is a 2004 Ram 2500 Hemi 2WD. The install should be very similar to most other Rams as well.
Step One: Gather all required parts, supplies, and tools. Having access to a lift is highly advised. Some things you will need: Torque Converter, at least 17 quarts of ATF +4, tranny filter kit, RTV sealant, impact wrench/sockets, swivel adapter, a really long extension (i used a 36"), socket/wrench sets, torx drivers/bits, transmission jack, screw drivers, and a buddy or two to help.
Step Two: Get your truck up on the lift. Get it high enough so you can stand underneath it and work comfortably.
Step Three: Remove Drive Shaft. This was very easy. It can be accomplished by removing the 4 bolts that hold it onto the rear axle, then sliding it out of the transmission. (I am not positive, but this could be different for 4WD or half ton trucks)
Step Four: Drain Fluid from pan. (this step is optional. you can install a new converter without changing the fluid. this is totally up to you though) Having a drain plug helps tremendously. If you aren't fortunate enough to have one, then loosen up the pan until you can drop one corner and begin pouring the fluid out.
Step Five: Get your exhaust out of the way. I chose to totally remove my exhaust so I would have as much room to work as possible. To do this, just remove the 4 bolts attaching your Y pipe to your headers, then slide it off all the hangers. This is optional though.
Step Six: Remove all electrical connections, fluid lines, and dip stick tube. You can mark the wires with tape and a marker if you need to, but its pretty obvious which connecter goes where when reassembling. Next loosen the fluid lines that send and receive from the tranny cooler. just loosen the smaller nut with a wrench, and slide the tube out. (note, these will leak fluid). To take the dip stick off of the tranny, you will need to take two bolts out, one holding the tube above the pan, and the other holding it to the bell housing.
Step Seven: Remove Starter. It is attached to the bell housing on the driver's side. it is held in by two bolts. remove it, and secure it out of the way. I zip tied it to the frame.
Step 8: Remove the "structural dust cover" between the engine oil pan, and transmission. this will give you a little bit of access to remove the 4 bolts attaching the torque converter to the fly wheel. Then, using a large screw driver, or something of the sort, spin the fly wheel so you can take off each bolt. Or alternately, you could use a large ratchet, and spin the crank bolt to rotate the fly wheel.
Step One: Gather all required parts, supplies, and tools. Having access to a lift is highly advised. Some things you will need: Torque Converter, at least 17 quarts of ATF +4, tranny filter kit, RTV sealant, impact wrench/sockets, swivel adapter, a really long extension (i used a 36"), socket/wrench sets, torx drivers/bits, transmission jack, screw drivers, and a buddy or two to help.
Step Two: Get your truck up on the lift. Get it high enough so you can stand underneath it and work comfortably.
Step Three: Remove Drive Shaft. This was very easy. It can be accomplished by removing the 4 bolts that hold it onto the rear axle, then sliding it out of the transmission. (I am not positive, but this could be different for 4WD or half ton trucks)
Step Four: Drain Fluid from pan. (this step is optional. you can install a new converter without changing the fluid. this is totally up to you though) Having a drain plug helps tremendously. If you aren't fortunate enough to have one, then loosen up the pan until you can drop one corner and begin pouring the fluid out.
Step Five: Get your exhaust out of the way. I chose to totally remove my exhaust so I would have as much room to work as possible. To do this, just remove the 4 bolts attaching your Y pipe to your headers, then slide it off all the hangers. This is optional though.
Step Six: Remove all electrical connections, fluid lines, and dip stick tube. You can mark the wires with tape and a marker if you need to, but its pretty obvious which connecter goes where when reassembling. Next loosen the fluid lines that send and receive from the tranny cooler. just loosen the smaller nut with a wrench, and slide the tube out. (note, these will leak fluid). To take the dip stick off of the tranny, you will need to take two bolts out, one holding the tube above the pan, and the other holding it to the bell housing.
Step Seven: Remove Starter. It is attached to the bell housing on the driver's side. it is held in by two bolts. remove it, and secure it out of the way. I zip tied it to the frame.
Step 8: Remove the "structural dust cover" between the engine oil pan, and transmission. this will give you a little bit of access to remove the 4 bolts attaching the torque converter to the fly wheel. Then, using a large screw driver, or something of the sort, spin the fly wheel so you can take off each bolt. Or alternately, you could use a large ratchet, and spin the crank bolt to rotate the fly wheel.