dodge ram broke rod or engine is locked up?? Help!!!

[mdandrews1386]

whats up guys? I'm new to this site. Just bought my first Dodge truck. I have a 2006 dodge ram 1500 slt hemi quad cab 4x4 big horn edition. I believe my engine is locked up or a rod is broke. It had plenty of oil in it, I don't know if maybe my oil pump quit working and I didn't notice. I got it to start a couple times for me and only let it run a few seconds to get some advice from people what is wrong with my truck. I will probably be putting a new motor in it and I want to look at prices and a warranty. does anyone know what motors will interchange with it? if I'am able to buy a crate motor for it? Or if a complete rebuild is better for it? I still owe $18k on it for 5 years and I plan to keep it for a long time. Interior and exterior is in great shape, very clean, everything did work when I bought it in July 2014 just engine problems now. there is 70,000 miles on it. I cant believe my motor blew already. Any and all help or advice will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

[jbmobbs]

70k should still have the power train warranty under the manufacturer...

 

[preachp]

Hi mdandrews,

Did you check the vales train to make sure that isn't the problem. Some of the earlier hemis have some problems with it. Also being as your truck is an 06 I doubt you have any warranty unless you bought an extended warranty when you bought the truck.
Hope you get it sorted.

preachp

 

[mdandrews1386]

I bought it used, it was as is no warranty. I figured with it only having 63k miles when I bought it that the engine was still strong. I've driven it 8k mile and just over 6 months when it happened.

 

[mdandrews1386]

No I haven't checked that, but ill look im to it. I hope its not the motor. A backyard mechanic I know listened to it and he said it was a rod. I haven't done anything with it since 2/2/15

 

[charonblk07]

Best way to be sure would be to do a compression test, if it's a bent rod you'll have one cylinder that's a lot lower than the others, before you do that, pull the valve covers and see if you have any broken springs which would mean the valve's hanging down and hitting the piston.

Either way, unless there's cylinder wall damage the block can easily be salvaged unless you just want to drop another block in and be done with it. To answer your original question, and block from '03-'08 will work, car or truck. The only thing you'll need to do if you get a car block is use your timing cover, accessories, and dipstick.

 

[mdandrews1386]

Ok. Thank you. Trying to narrow the problems down before I spend a bunch of money. I'm leaning more towards a rebuild or remanufactured cause I plan to drive it hopefully another couple hundred thousand miles. I don't wanna take a chance of a used motor having the same problems. And its only like an extra grand to get a reman one with 3 year/unlimited mile warranty.

 

[MADDOG]

It may be a valve spring or a valve spring keeper let go.

Can you hand turn the engine over or is it totally seized?

I'd start at the top and inspect the valve train first. Do a compression test to see if there is a low value cylinder and focus on that. If all looks right on the top end, drain the oil and pull the oil pan to inspect the bottom end.

 

[mdandrews1386]

I haven't tried to turn the motor by hand. I know a little about vehicles but getting into problems I'm having, I'm clueless. Its making a loud clanking/knocking noise. So I just assumed it would be a rod. I'll check out and see if I can do what your telling me. Hopefully its something small and stupid to fix

 

[crazy_luck]

Not sure about the truck engines, but I know the car 5.7s of the same year range have had issues with the valve guides dropping, especially if the engine ever so slightly over heats. And when a valve guide lets go, it sounds pretty nasty...

 

[MADDOG]

^^^ Oh so true ^^^^

I've personally heard several with this problem.

 

[mdandrews1386]

It don't make sense to me that it would be a broken rod cause my truck stalled out and wouldn't start. When I finally go it started the noise was low and then gradually got louder. When it broke down the first thing I thought happened was I did overheat something. I don't know how an engine works on the inside with all the small parts and pieces, with timing and everything else so first thing I assumed was a rod broke.

 

[DTECH]

If you just got done driving the truck and stopped real quick then went to restart and heard banging then you dropped a valve seat...pull the plugs and see which ones look busted...would almost bet it is going to be passengers side head 2nd cylinder from the front that dropped..you can get a remam motor from powertrain parts or just do a search...the engine will need a piston and a head..ive been through this with 2 motors so far..my 06 charger and just in January with my ram..if it is a dropped seat you will need to replace the intake manifold as well as valve seat pieces will be lodged inside and can come loose a d destroy your new motor...

 

[mdandrews1386]

I did a couple donuts in it and I got stuck and it stalled out, put it in four wheel drive to get out and started driving down the road about 30mph and gassed it a couple times then I slowed down to a stop to take it out of dour wheel drive when it stalled out again. This time I couldn't get it started. I tried to jump the starter and still nothing. Next day I replaced the starter and also the crankshaft position sensor. Finally got it to start and it was ticking kinda loud. I changed the oil and it quit, 10 minutes later the tick came back and then started making a loud clanking/ knocking sound. I just assumed it was a rod but I've been told it could be valve guide or spring. The noise sounds like its coming from the driver side.

 

[DTECH]

Pull the plugs if no signs of damge pull the valve covers and look at each spring and rocker arm...look to see if a spring is sitting higher than the others..this would indicate a dropped seat...a broken spring will be obvious as it would be collapsed....try to rotate the motor clockwise and counterclockwise to check the valve train...my truck acted as if it was stalling when I tried to start it and noticed the tapping bang sound and knew what it was from when my charger went out...except the charger computer will actually allow the motor to run for a few and destroy itself more...the truck will just stall out...

 

[mdandrews1386]

Ok. Thanks. Is it easier to pull the motor out if I have to take the valve covers off? Big truck but very little room to work on.

 

[DTECH]

its tight but if its a valve train I would want to check that first..start with the plugs there should def be some damage on them if its a valve seat..if you can get your hands on a bore scope to look down the plug hole can help..

 

[mdandrews1386]

I took all the spark plugs out and the two closest to the firewall on the driver side have damage on them. Both ground electrodes are bent almost straight. I'm going to get a bore scope to look inside the engine next. My brother said the engine is most likely junk now. Its a 5.7 hemi does anyone know if a 4.7 motor will interchange and will the transmission bolt up to it?

 

[DTECH]

pull the motor then pull the head..you will probably see the intake valve seat gone or the valve beat to hell because you had a spring break..but since you have an 06 Im sure you dropped a seat...

 

[DTECH]

not sure where you located but a guy on Lxforums is selling a brand new original never run truck motor for $1600 he's in Ohio..

New mopar 5.7 hemi long block