HELP please

[mrramrodder]

I already wrote a thread yesterday people were getting answers back on how to change their oil and how to get a new key fob but this was apparently not something anyone cared about so I will try again.

I have a 2006 2500 with a hemi it is built right around 600 hp lockers 6 in lift the whole 9. Anyway the truck has 130xxx on the body. The other day my blinkers stopped working front and back on the passenger side then a day later they worked fine. Two three more days went by and the turn signals on the right and left side front and back do not work any longer. My dash is blinking fast like my bulbs are out. The hazards don't work either. However the running lights work perfect. What could this be? I've read it could be a blinker switch? Everything on that that I have read doesn't exactly sound like my problem. People were saying they would go to turn left and the right blinker would go off. Or the blinker would go on and not shut off again in or their wipers would randomly cycle once or twice. My blinkers just stopped working all together. All my fuses are good and I can't even find where my blinkers are tied into my fuses. My passenger side tail light has been collecting water in it for awhile now idk if that would do anything? All my wireing seems to be in perfect shape. I also took my head liner off recently because my dog chewed on it and he bit through the wiring that runs all of my dome lights idk if maybe they arched on my roof? It's since been fixed. Built this truck tires on up and this stumps me and everyone I've talked to. Haven't tried cleaning the blinker switch or taking it off yet. Really need help.

 

[GoldDot]

You need to check your wiring again. I've had something similar happen due to a poor wire repair by a collision center. Check your bulb sockets for corrosion also.

 

[mrramrodder]

Ok I will. And forgive me for sounding dumb. I know mechanics not electrical but would all the signals be tied into the same wires. If there was a wired rubbed through somewhere would it effect all of them like that?

 

[SilverStreak88]

Your tail lights are on 1 harness, it runs from the front down the driver side frame rail to the back and splits off to the driver and then runs across the back to the passenger side. pull your tail lights out, check light for crack (grab it at the top and bottom and twist it to see if any splits appear). The seal on your bulb could be broken as well or the light isn't locked in fully, check the wiring for both lights going "into the body hole", these are known to rub on the body ground off or break the wire depending on how much it's rubbed.

 

[mrramrodder]

Ok I'll check all that. What about the front blinkers? Would be an odd coincidence the front and back blinkers going at the same time if it were wires going bad.

 

[derekp]

Ok I'll check all that. What about the front blinkers? Would be an odd coincidence the front and back blinkers going at the same time if it were wires going bad.

Have you checked your blinker fluid? I'm kidding but yes if the wires are bad or rubbed through then it is going to affect the whole system. Start from the front at each parklight and follow the wires all the way to the back. If something has rubbed through you should be able to see it.

 

[SilverStreak88]

Ok I'll check all that. What about the front blinkers? Would be an odd coincidence the front and back blinkers going at the same time if it were wires going bad.

Could be a short throughout the light harness, we can start at the back and go from there.

Sent From The Automotive Proof S5

 

[derekp]

Could be a short throughout the light harness, we can start at the back and go from there.

Sent From The Automotive Proof S5

Or start at the back. Either way they are connected. Lol

 

[xb1230]

If your cluster is acting up it could also be the the circuit band in the back of the cluster.
With time they have a tendency to become brittle and crack leaving open circuit or barely connected ones which can lead to some strobe effect...

There are way to repair those circuit bands. In some cases where possible you can solder a wire to bypass the broken circuit.
Where a wire bridge can't be done, you can use defrost repair fluid. Scrape off the green circuit protective coating about 1/4 of an inch on both sides of the cracked area, put some painters tape to recreate the circuit pathway and paint the broken area with the defrost repair fluid. While the liquid is still wet remove the tape. I recommend putting on some transparent tape over the repaired area to prevent surface damage and keep a good connection.

That should do it and the cluster should work normally now.

Inexpensive way of fixing a cluster gone south.

Your blinkers are most definitely related to some bad wiring.
I find the wiring on my truck is getting very prickly, dried up and break easily. I can,t count the number of splice repairs I have had to do in the 2 years I have had this truck... One of the ways I go about finding a broken wire is starting at both ends, with a multi-meter, a few alligator grip test wires, a long stretch of wire(long enough to cover the length of the vehicle front to back), a wiring diagram, a 6 pack(or 12 depends on you) and a lot of patience.
Probe each wires from both ends. If there is no continuity then the wire is broken somewhere in between the connectors. Sometimes just playing around with the harness will trigger the connectivity and the multi-meter will sound... That should indicate where the broken stretch is. In some other cases you may have to open the whole harness and go through inspecting the wire inch by inch until you find the break. I have had instances where the wire had broken inside the protective shield and could not be visually found. In such cases, you may have to probe through the shielding to isolate the break point. I use sewing needles wit the alligator grips to do that sort of probing. it barely leaves any marks and it is a really efficient method to find the invisible culprits.

With experience and some great advice from other members here, I have found that a good compression splice repair with some shrink tubing is actually a more durable repair than soldering and electrical tape. I over do it and add some liquid electrical tape to seal both ends of the compression splice before shrink tubing the whole repair, especially outside the vehicle where humidity can sneak up on you.

I also find it is relatively important to try and maintain the same gauge wire if you have to replace some of the section of the wiring. Many of these circuits are CANBUS enabled and the change in resistance from a different wire gauge can cause issues in the system.

Hope this helps.