Help with CV axle / Stub shaft

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XXSNOTRODXX

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Hey guys,
I did a bilstein 2.1" leveling kit on my truck about a week ago. Afterword in 4x4 I had a bad wobble in the front end. After doing some digging I found both front CV axles had play in them. (some play in the cv's themselves and some play where the axles mount to the stub shafts) - Video of the play https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0u3LfDAjVk . So apparently There were worn parts and by leveling the front of the truck and changing the axle angles it brought to light the fact that parts were worn lol.

My question is, I will be tackling the job soon and I would like to have all of the parts on hand to replace them and not have to stop in the middle of the job and wait for parts to ship and be without my truck for however long.

I want to do both front CV axles of course. Which from my understanding they are the same part # for left and right. And I would like to do new stub shafts aswell.

The issue is, I can only find one style of stub shaft when searching for the parts (this Dorman - OE Solutions Front Axle Shaft 630-416: Advance Auto Parts ).....but on some google searching I seen mention that this may only be for the left side (drivers side)....is this correct?....if so, what is the right side?. Or do both the left and right side share the same part #?. Hard saying because it gets confusing trying to figure out if people are talking about 2nd gen,3rd gen or 4th gen rams.

ALSO, what else would be needed?....Are there bearings or anything that the stub shafts ride on that need replaced? , seals?....

I don't mind doing the work myself. But I want to make sure I am well prepared for the job.

Any and all help on the issue would be greatly appreciated. And anyone who has performed this job first hand that cares to shed light/give tips would be of great help. Thanks
 
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6.7CumminsDrvr

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Wish I could help but all of my experience with cv's was with a Tacoma. And those I purchased as a complete assembly. Popped the old one out, slapped the new one in.
 

pickupman66

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I am fighting with my CV not going down all the way on the axel stubs. I replaced the bearings and thus had to remove them to do so per the Service manual. Now I cannot get them to fully seat back on the axel stubs. Any ideas on how to get htem to go all the way down?
 

JTrean

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I'm pretty sure both sides are the same.... At least that's what Napa told me when I bought a replacement for my left side. Cost me 85$ with a lifetime warranty.

Edit: didn't read the whole question. I am referring to the CV axles being the same.
 
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XXSNOTRODXX

XXSNOTRODXX

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Yes I believe both left and right cv axles are the same. (All the part numbers I have seen for left and right side are the same number). The stub shaft is where things get confusing. And rather there are bearings that need replaces,seals,etc...etc... Hopefully someone that has done the job can chime in and clear things up
 
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XXSNOTRODXX

XXSNOTRODXX

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I am fighting with my CV not going down all the way on the axel stubs. I replaced the bearings and thus had to remove them to do so per the Service manual. Now I cannot get them to fully seat back on the axel stubs. Any ideas on how to get htem to go all the way down?

Sounds like the spring clip might be stretched and not allowing the cv to slide down into the locking position. I think the dealer sells new clips for a couple bucks. Or if your desperate you could take your current Clip and try to close them slightly with a set of pliers and reinstall and see if that allows the cv so slide into the locking position.
 

csuder99

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Nevermind ... brain fart !
 
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XXSNOTRODXX

XXSNOTRODXX

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Typically the replacement CV shaft assemblies come with the stub shaft so you don't need to worry about ordering these. And yes they are the same for both sides, as are the CV shaft assemblies.

Every cv axle I have looked at from every different parts store shows just the axles. No stub shaft (intermediate shaft) included. And the majority of the places that offer a stub shaft.... In the item description it refers to the part as being for the left side.
But I can't find any "right" stub shafts. Which is why some of the confusion .

Just so we are on the same page, I am referring to the splined shafts in the front differential that the cv axles connect to.
 
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csuder99

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I know, sorry for the confusion....

More info: After some serious Google whacking it appears the left shaft (52069887AE) is widely used across multiple product lines. The right shaft (supposedly 52114636AB) appears more specific and hence there are no aftermarket parts available.

HTH
 
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XXSNOTRODXX

XXSNOTRODXX

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I know, sorry for the confusion....

More info: After some serious Google whacking it appears the left shaft (52069887AE) is widely used across multiple product lines. The right shaft (supposedly 52114636AB) appears more specific and hence there are no aftermarket parts available.

HTH

After looking up the part number you mentioned I found this site Axle Housing,Front,Corporate 8.25 [DJM],DR 6

And it looks like that's more internal....and like maybe #5 would be the part I may need. either way it seems ridiculously over priced. I sure wish I had a service manual so I could go through the exploded views and have more pictures to look at and see exactly what parts I would need for my truck.

As luck will have it....it wont be a simple or "cheap" job lol.
 

Jim_Thurston

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Did this ever get figured out?

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
 
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XXSNOTRODXX

XXSNOTRODXX

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Did this ever get figured out?

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

I decided to get ahold of zone offroad and bought a diff drop kit. I installed the diff kit (not a very simple job might I add) and that DID get rid of the front end wobble/vibration issues!. HOWEVER....at a cost......a cost I have yet to remedy. My c/v shaft outter boots have both torn and slung grease everywhere. I am not sure why though because my c/v angles are almost straight now where as before they were at a steep angle. I think the knuckles are chewing my boots when I make a tight turn and the boots stretch. So I think I am going to replace both c/v's but this time loosen the boot clamps and crush the boot in a bit and then reclamp them so it has more slack in the "accordion" when it stretches when I make turns.
 

Jim_Thurston

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Did you get rid of the play in the passenger side output shaft? I'm having the same issues and according to Google and Chrysler you can't replace the passenger side output shaft on the 2012+



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XXSNOTRODXX

XXSNOTRODXX

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Did you get rid of the play in the passenger side output shaft? I'm having the same issues and according to Google and Chrysler you can't replace the passenger side output shaft on the 2012+



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It can be replaced. I don't recall specifics because it has been about a year since I originally started digging into the issue but one side was fairly easily replaceable. And the opposite side although replaceable was alot more of a "job" and required digging into the front diff.

I found on mine (after checking my wifes Jeep and my father in laws nissan titan) that some play was normal. I did however manage to slightly minimize the play on mine with new c/v shafts.

But like I mentioned previously, what got rid of my vibrations and what not ended up being a diff drop which in turn lowered the c/v axle angles. But brought with it the new problem on eating c/v boots for whatever reason.

I DID however get car quest brand replacement C/V axle shafts...not mopar replacements. So it is possible that the repops could have clamped their boots in a slightly different location or didn't make them to exact measurments as factory...no idea. All I know is that I have no idea what caused it lol. And my next step is to replace the C/V's again and slightly relocate the inner clamps on the out boots toward the wheel to give me a little more slack in the bellow of the boot. ( my boots stretch out when I turn my wheels which is causing them to wrinkle in on themselves and then the C/V knuckles rotate and bite the boot and tear them up).

If I had to do it all again I would have left the suspension factory and saved all of the headache it has caused and went with a body lift or something.
 

martin duguay

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hey if your truck is build with the corporate 8.5 wich mean its 2011 or earlier model you will need 2 and 5 from your part explotion for passenger side and 12 and 13 for driver side as for model 2012 and above there is no current part for passenger side you do need a complete diff assembly !!!!! driver side is available tho!
 

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