Hemi bolts

[Hagar1]

Good morning folks,
I am hoping for help here on what bolts do I throw away while rebuilding a 5.7 Hemi. I know that the head bolts are not to be reused but main bearing and rod bolts are the "torque to yield" type as well, do they get tossed as well?
Thanks!

 

[Torqued]

Any torque to yield bolts should be replaced. When a bolt is torque to yield it has been pulled to its elastic limit. It stretches the bolt, so only a new set of unstretched bolts will give you a good even tightening.
Here’s an article where i got my info.

http://autos.ca/articles/jk/040303.htm

 

[Hagar1]

Any torque to yield bolts should be replaced. When a bolt is torque to yield it has been pulled to its elastic limit. It stretches the bolt, so only a new set of unstretched bolts will give you a good even tightening.
Here’s an article where i got my info.

http://autos.ca/articles/jk/040303.htm

Looks like I'll be spending more money on bolts than anything else. Those bolts are a good idea until it is overhaul time. Trying to do this build right.
Wrestling with the idea of a mild cam and a few other things to get away from the mds system. Jury is still out on that idea. Sticking with mds, will be less expense over all. I think the hellcat oil pump will hopefully address the lifter tick. That along with a bump in the idle speed hopefully will be the fix.

 

[Wild one]

Looks like I'll be spending more money on bolts than anything else. Those bolts are a good idea until it is overhaul time. Trying to do this build right.
Wrestling with the idea of a mild cam and a few other things to get away from the mds system. Jury is still out on that idea. Sticking with mds, will be less expense over all. I think the hellcat oil pump will hopefully address the lifter tick. That along with a bump in the idle speed hopefully will be the fix.

Bump the idle to 750rpm and you don't need the Hellcat pump

 

[Hagar1]

Bump the idle to 750rpm and you don't need the Hellcat pump

I already have the pump so I'll install it, can't hurt.

 

[Torqued]

Looks like I'll be spending more money on bolts than anything else. Those bolts are a good idea until it is overhaul time. Trying to do this build right.
Wrestling with the idea of a mild cam and a few other things to get away from the mds system. Jury is still out on that idea. Sticking with mds, will be less expense over all. I think the hellcat oil pump will hopefully address the lifter tick. That along with a bump in the idle speed hopefully will be the fix.

I’m in the same situation, I’ve got to replace my cam and lifters. Had a tick, thought or maybe more like hoped it was my manifolds. Well they are replaced, which needed done. But on the drive home from the heated shop where i replaced the manifolds. I got a cylinder 5 misfire. My gut feeling knew what it was but still had to eliminate the possibility of it being the coil. It wasn’t the coil. So I’ve been searching for what parts are best, and. Blah, blah, blah. What really sucks is that I don’t have a spare vehicle. But anyways I’m probably going back with the mds, i just need the quickest turn possible.

 

[Wild one]

I already have the pump so I'll install it, can't hurt.

Still bump the idle rpm up to 750 even with the hellcat pump

 

[Hagar1]

Still bump the idle rpm up to 750 even with the hellcat pump

Do I need a "tuner" to do that or is it something the dealer can do?

 

[Hagar1]

I’m in the same situation, I’ve got to replace my cam and lifters. Had a tick, thought or maybe more like hoped it was my manifolds. Well they are replaced, which needed done. But on the drive home from the heated shop where i replaced the manifolds. I got a cylinder 5 misfire. My gut feeling knew what it was but still had to eliminate the possibility of it being the coil. It wasn’t the coil. So I’ve been searching for what parts are best, and. Blah, blah, blah. What really sucks is that I don’t have a spare vehicle. But anyways I’m probably going back with the mds, i just need the quickest turn possible.

If I may offer a word of advice, get your "old" manifolds machined. If you put "new" manifolds on, you will be replacing them again in the future. The new manifolds will warp but the old ones have already done all their warping. I had my old manifolds machined about 3 or 4 years ago and no problem since.

 

[kdoublep]

If I may offer a word of advice, get your "old" manifolds machined. If you put "new" manifolds on, you will be replacing them again in the future. The new manifolds will warp but the old ones have already done all their warping. I had my old manifolds machined about 3 or 4 years ago and no problem since.

I'm thinking I may do this if it's not cracked but I have a brand new manifold. Should I save it if I can?

It's really hard not to install a new part but I agree with the logic.

 

[Wild one]

Do I need a "tuner" to do that or is it something the dealer can do?

Yup,but if you're thinking of sticking a mild non-mds cam in,you'll need to have it tuned anyways.
If you go back with all stock parts,being a 2012,any old unmarried Diablo handheld,will allow you bump the idle rpm up,and turn off the mds if you stick a stock cam back in it.I used my old original Diablo T1000 from my old 13 shortbox, to bump the idle rpm up in my 300C and raise the speed limiter.It's totally stock except for having 6.4 manifolds and the 6.4 midpipes,so i wasn't particularily worried about tuning it,all i wanted was the bumped up idle,and speed limiter raised,and that can be done using the old T1000 to modify the stock tune parameters

 

[Torqued]

I have already installed new manifolds i went with the BD Power brand of manifolds, now I’m looking at replacing the lifters and cam, also up grading the oil pump with a melling 10452hv. But i do still have the original manifolds, so if all goes well with lifters/cam/oil pump, and down the road the new one warp I’ll see about having them machined.

 

[Hagar1]

I'm thinking I may do this if it's not cracked but I have a brand new manifold. Should I save it if I can?

It's really hard not to install a new part but I agree with the logic.

The new manifold will warp after a number of heat cycles. The old manifolds that have been machined won't, they will be stable.
In "engineering" terms, the "new" manifolds are what they referred to as "green cast" meaning it has not been stress relieved. Because of the small bolts used to retain the manifolds, they will break from the tension imposed on them by the manifold, typically when it is cooling off.
Hope this helps!

 

[bubba5xx]

I used new bolts for my rebuild