Issues with 2024 HD 2500 RAM

[nevinc]

I bought a new 2024 RAM 2500 HD and have had to jump start it every day since I got it. Dealer said battery is good and they had no problem.

I don't know what to do to get them to understand that every morning I go out to my truck it is dead.

I have verified the usual, nothing is left on, I have tried different troubleshooting techniques.

Tried leaving the radio off, locking it, leaving it unlocked, etc.

I just jumped it and it started for about a second and died instantly and I heard a loud "crack" or pop in the dash to the left of the steering wheel..

I jumped it again and it started, it has been idling for about 30 minutes to charge the battery.

Anyone have any ideas other than I am going to take it back to the dealer and I am afraid they will again say it tests and runs fine...???

 

[Cummins diesel]

I’d say find a different dealer if they can’t figure it out. There’s still a few good ones out there

 

[tron67j]

First thing is disconnect the battery and when you go start in the morning reconnect (I know, a pain but necessary). If it starts, definitely something drawing power. If it doesn't, then definitely the battery.

If a draw, pull all fuses and relays but one first night, then pull all but that first one plus a second the next night, and so on. Not scientific but it works. When you get to the night it doesn't start the next morning, you found at least your first problem. Figure that out, then continue adding a fuse each night until you have left all connected overnight. Need to make sure just one issue.

I would start with radio first. Good luck.

 

[nevinc]

If I were to wager a guess I would suspect the radio which contains all of the computer components (GPS, Wi-Fi, system controls, etc.).

 

[Badger 13]

Document, document, document. I hate to say it, but maybe time to check into your states "lemon law"..

 

[nevinc]

I keep all communications with the dealership. I am going to take the advice of another commenter and start testing battery levels and amount of drain on the battery over time to document it going down. I already told the dealer that if I return it again, I do not want it back unless it is proven to be resolved at "what" was actually done to resolve the issue. I really hate to think I got a lemon, this is my 5th RAM and the first I have had issues with

 

[BossHogg]

If I were to wager a guess I would suspect the radio which contains all of the computer components (GPS, Wi-Fi, system controls, etc.).

Careful pointing fingers at a module simply because it is the one you see and understand. There is a wealth of individual modules in the vehicle, any one of them could be failing to fall asleep if that is the cause. For example, the module that wakes up every few hundred milliseconds to see if you pushed a button on your FOB, maybe it is the cause.

I can't believe your dealer didn't keep your vehicle overnight so they could see the discharge and then investigate. As others have said, find a more responsible service department.

If you want to narrow down the possibilities of what is causing the issue, try the test already recommended, and disconnect the battery overnight. I realize it is a new vehicle but new does not always mean working.

Also check the battery voltage, with a meter at the battery when the engine is running. You should see a voltage greater than 13 dot something depending on the battery's state of charge.

You can also put a DC clamp meter or an inline current meter on the battery wire to see any parasitic draw on the battery. Typically, a current draw of less than 100 milliamps is normal and it will likely vary as modules turn on and off. Keep in mind it takes several minutes for a vehicle's electronics to fall into a deep sleep.

I had an issue like this and it turned out to be the battery, which was not old, load tested good, but developed an internal failure. One cell in the battery would randomly flip polarity briefly causing a drop in voltage and a short drawing down the battery. I caught this by monitoring the battery voltage overnight with a voltage recorder and my laptop. This is rare but it is a possibility and one that is overlooked because it is not expected.

 

[nevinc]

The dealer had my vehicle for several days. They said no problem was found. I had not gone into the settings and modified anything to my liking before giving it to them, the small things like the backup lines, power after shutoff time, comfort settings, etc. I am going to start by disconnecting the battery at night to verify the battery does not have a short, but I kind of doubt it as it tests good with a battery tester.

The biggest issue is that it can be intermittent as there are days I go out and it does start, but the initial starting does not feel the same as with a full battery. As a mechanic myself (Military vehicles, and aircraft) for 40 years, I can tell when a battery "feels" powerful at the moment of initial start, and I do not get that feeling.

I am just very disappointed and frustrated I have to go through this as a long-time loyal RAM customer. I have confidence it will get resolved but it is just getting through the process is itself draining

Starting with the battery disconnect first. Thank you for your comment!

 

[Badger 13]

I can only imagine how frustrating that has to be, or even the thought of having a "lemon". Recently I went through an electrical issue with mine that the dealer could not figure out. I was so frustrated but didn't give up. The dealer was getting frustrated as well, not with me, but trying to find a cure. Mine was out of any range for a lemon law, so I was on my own. Longer story, but nine months to the day the issue was found and fixed. I just read a similar problem as you have with a Ford truck, battery dead every morning, it turned out that it was the TPMS sensors were causing the drain. Electrical issues can be uch a pain. I wish you luck with the truck.

 

[nevinc]

Thank you, hearing a loud cracking or popping sound right after it started and having smelt a slight burning smell is indicative of a serious electrical issue. I am patient but only up to a point, depending on how seriously I feel the dealer is working to help me resolve the issue. Thank you for your comment.

 

[Scottly]

... a long-time loyal RAM customer.

No disrespect, but that and seven bucks will get you a cup of crappy Starbucks coffee. Why are you (or anyone) loyal to a brand? The corporate pukes that run these companies aren't loyal to you.

 

[nevinc]

I am not loyal in the sense that I won't buy a different brand, I love GMC and Chevy, they are great trucks and look awesome. It is just I have (up until now) not had issues with my Chrysler products, so I have stayed with them. Thanks

 

[RamDiver]

The dealer had my vehicle for several days. They said no problem was found. I had not gone into the settings and modified anything to my liking before giving it to them, the small things like the backup lines, power after shutoff time, comfort settings, etc. I am going to start by disconnecting the battery at night to verify the battery does not have a short, but I kind of doubt it as it tests good with a battery tester.

The biggest issue is that it can be intermittent as there are days I go out and it does start, but the initial starting does not feel the same as with a full battery. As a mechanic myself (Military vehicles, and aircraft) for 40 years, I can tell when a battery "feels" powerful at the moment of initial start, and I do not get that feeling.

I am just very disappointed and frustrated I have to go through this as a long-time loyal RAM customer. I have confidence it will get resolved but it is just getting through the process is itself draining

Starting with the battery disconnect first. Thank you for your comment!

Sorry to hear of your grief, especially with a new truck.

You mention that the battery tests 'good' with a battery tester, could you provide any more details on this battery tester, did you see the test yourself and the tester mentioned?

There are different types of battery testers available, a digital tester and an analogue toaster-style tester. As much as some individuals might swear by a digital tester, they are prone to false positive results because of the process they use.

I would suggest you find an auto parts store that uses a toaster-style tester, they usually provide a battery load test for free.

If you can't find a place that uses a toaster-style tester, they're only about $20 from Harbour Freight or Amazon.

The standard operating procedure (SOP) for any battery-related issues is to perform a battery load test. And again, digital-type testers are prone to false positives.

100 Amp, 6/12V Battery Load Tester

Amazing deals on this 100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

And to Ram Forums.

.

 

[nevinc]

Thank you for your comment!

I have a 135 Amp load tester that I use to test the battery. I also use a multimeter to check the battery.

 

[RamDiver]

Thank you for your comment!

I have a 135 Amp load tester that I use to test the battery. I also use a multimeter to check the battery.

Excellent! And you're most welcome.

Have you verified that the alternator provides sufficient charge voltage while the rpm is at about 1500 or more?

If the battery and alternator have been ruled out, you're most likely dealing with a parasitic current draw.

While I agree with disconnecting the battery as a first test, I would try a different approach by using the fuses as isolators. Instead of pulling all the fuses and adding one at a time, I would play the odds game and only pull half out.

If pulling half yields no results, replace the fuses and pull the other half.

If the problem disappears, add half of the missing fuses.


Another method to find a parasitic draw is, after waiting sufficient time for sleep to set in, measuring the voltage drop across the fuses to determine which circuits remain active.

There is a chart which will list the expected voltage drop through all the fuses. I'll see if I can find it on my PC and upload it to this thread.

This site will not allow me to upload a pdf. This is a link to the fuse voltage drop chart;

https://m.roadkillcustoms.com/wp-content/technical-pdf/Standard%20ATC%20Fuse%20Voltage%20Drop%20Chart.pdf

.

 

[nevinc]

Today I am going to measure the voltage every 2 hours.

At 08:45 the battery tests at 12.01 volts. I will measure again every two hours to measure the voltage drop.

When I take it back to the dealer, I will provide them with the data.

Tomorrow with a fully charged battery I will start the fuse test, pulling out half and going from there.

Shame I need to even do this, but...

Again, thank you!

 

[Scottly]

that's what we used to call a "toaster" in the repair business. Just remember, it's critical to calculate rated CCA with the amount of time you are putting that 135a load on the battery to determine of it's pass/fail.

 

[tjfdesmo]

12.01 is a very low state of charge, @50%.

 

[Scottly]

Today I am going to measure the voltage every 2 hours.

At 08:45 the battery tests at 12.01 volts.

Is that surface charge, without a load? If so...That's not good.

 

[nevinc]

That is with the vehicle off, at rest, direct terminal contact test with multimeter.

I will start it and measure it as well now.