Leaking from Diff Driveshaft

[dezznutzz]

Bought a 02 Ram 1500 used a few months ago, previous owner told me about the leak and that he changed the seal but it was still leaking, so I was like "no big deal". I was wrong, I've changed that seal twice and it is still leaking.

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I'm out of ideas (and hair). Any help is GREATLY appreciated.

 

[Redtruck-VA]

Is there any movement in the pinion? If so then the pinion bearings need replacement. If not then possable the seal mating surface is damaged.

 

[dezznutzz]

Do I remove the driveshaft to see if there is movement? Is it hard to change the Bearing? Also the seal is a week old.

 

[Redtruck-VA]

Do I remove the driveshaft to see if there is movement? Is it hard to change the Bearing? Also the seal is a week old.

Set the ebrake, put trans in neutral and shake the rear U joint and look for pinion side to side movement. If the seal was replaced a week ago how did the seal area look on the companion flange look like?

 

[dezznutzz]

it looked fine to me, no cracks or scratches of any kind, but I'll take a look again today and post some more pics. also thanks for the quick replies.

 

[dezznutzz]

Okay, just checked and there is plenty of play, side to side, top to bottom. Also is it supposed to have play if you turn the driveshaft?

 

[Redtruck-VA]

Okay, just checked and there is plenty of play, side to side, top to bottom. Also is it supposed to have play if you turn the driveshaft?

A little rotational play is expected, Side to side is not acceptable and is either the pinion nut has backed off or the pinion bearings are shot. I would check the pinion nut torque (215 ft/pounds) and determine the pinion rotational torque resistance. Expect something in the 20-30 inch/pound range.

 

[03MopaRamman]

Not saying above suggestions are not right but for my current Diff this would be my 2 cents offered on what the problem could be given the Age of your diff, Is that your Yoke is worn a bit and fits a tad loose into your seal, and if so you will get leakage again. My last seal from my Re-Gear was good for last two years and I had mine re-done recently by my Gear guy just before a Tow with the Trailer and he showed me the wear and a slight burr that he polished out. So far so good but when it leaks again I will need a new Quote: Flange, Drive Shaft Yoke Pinion. Can't find my notes or cost re part number but about $ 150 bucks up here.

 

[dezznutzz]

215 torque? Damn, the last time I changed the seal all I set it to was 80.I tried to go more but I felt the yolk move when I tried to tighten it more, felt like it would break so i stopped at 80.I also looked everywhere for the torque specification but no one would give me a straight answer. So 215 it is then?

 

[03MopaRamman]

Torquing aint so bad but I had to Cargo strap myself to a Fence Post so when cracked off the nut with my 3/4 breaker I would not get sucked under the Truck when I did mine hence why I paid the Gear shop last time, PIA, but can say I got that T-Shirt as well.

 

[dezznutzz]

Lol, the thing is I felt the pinion move as I was going past 80, hence the reason for not going past 80,I don't know if thats normal for the pinion to move like that?

 

[Redtruck-VA]

215 torque? Damn, the last time I changed the seal all I set it to was 80.I tried to go more but I felt the yolk move when I tried to tighten it more, felt like it would break so i stopped at 80.I also looked everywhere for the torque specification but no one would give me a straight answer. So 215 it is then?

Went back and checked the Manual and it is 210ft/lbs

What you probably felt was the crush collar cushing a little. You were just getting started....lol

 

[dezznutzz]

Thanks for the replies, what do you recommend? Torque to 210 or replace bearings? It has 2 bearings right?

 

[Redtruck-VA]

Thanks for the replies, what do you recommend? Torque to 210 or replace bearings? It has 2 bearings right?

I would torque it first using some loktite on the nut to see if that solves the problem. Don't drive it the way it is, if you drop the drive shaft it'll get expensive quick..

 

[Notsobroke]

getting it going with a impact gun. it's always dangerous to swap the seal without knowledge about a crush collar. to loose you end up with what you have and to tight you risk wiping out the bearing. I've been doing rears along time and go by feel. or you could use a inch lb wrench to measure the drag.

After all this is said you might develop a hum from the pinion riding back and forth on the ring gear.

 

[Redtruck-VA]

Experience counts in doing these.

 

[dezznutzz]

I'm back guys. So I finally got everything out. Bought the bearings,crush sleeve and the cups, installed them and the pinion is still loose, I took a video of it please take a look.

20130731 1713271] - YouTube

Its already torqued to 210lb, so I don't know if its moving because its supposed to or because the driveshaft is not on, or because the gears aren't in place or because I suck at this? Anyways here are some pictures of the pinion and bearings,etc,etc.


New bearing and crush sleeve.





Someone please help me out.

pic of the girlfriend for your troubles.

 

[Redtruck-VA]

Looked at the video and as you know that isn't right yet, looks like you haven't crushed the sleeve enough. Need to increase the torque on the pinion nut and start checking torsional load. Look for about 25in/lbs. You are close but no cigar yet. The flange sealing area needs to be cleaned up or replaced. Nice looking girl friend....

 

[smiley]

You will have to crush the crush sleeve and then back off some if I am not mistaken. I personally have not worked on these but know from my own experience on my truck that if they or you tighten too much the bearing fails and so does the seal. You get pissed and rant about it on RamForum. I was sick after my bearing started squealing and it was a brand new set after rebuild Timken and all that was destroyed.


$miley

 

[Redtruck-VA]

You will have to crush the crush sleeve and then back off some if I am not mistaken. I personally have not worked on these but know from my own experience on my truck that if they or you tighten too much the bearing fails and so does the seal. You get pissed and rant about it on RamForum. I was sick after my bearing started squealing and it was a brand new set after rebuild Timken and all that was destroyed.


$miley

Actually backing off is not recommended, if you do so you should start fresh with a new crush sleeve by the book. I don't always do so, but it is what is recommended. Once the pinion nut is up over 200 ft/lbs I start checking rotational torque. If loose as yours is now, pull up the torque more as the collar is not crushed enough, keep raising the torque a little at a time and recheck the torsional torque until you get it to 25 in/lbs. You will not be over tight if your torsional torque is correct. Shops often take short cuts and use a air wrench and over tighten the nut not paying attention to what they are doing.