My audio upgrade

[BadHabit2Break]

Just wanted to give my list and plans for this build. It is nothing over the top or crazy loud, but will do the job just fine.

I used these instructions here on how to remove the OEM speakers.
http://www.ramforum.com/f51/13-16_crutchfield_mastersheet-88090/

List of equipment:

OEM 8.4A HU
AudioControl LCQ1
NVX 900.5 amp
RF Punch P132 3.5"
RF Punch P165 6.5" Coaxials
RF Punch P165-S Components
RF Punch P1S4-10 Subwoofer

Added equipment:

Fiberglass box for sub under seat
XS Power BIG3XP big 3 upgrade
NVX XAPK4 4g amp kit
Scosche SA69 templates
Metra 72-6514 wiring harness


Things will be done in stages as I get stuff in and get time to install them.

 

[BadHabit2Break]

Rear Door install

So today I pulled the rear door panel off and installed the RF Punch P1650 Coaxials. Job took maybe an hour.

Here are the pics

OEM vs RF speaker. OEM is 4ohm 15 watt.


Door panel removed


Metra harness connected


Everything in the door ready for the panel to be put back on


Panel back on and even added the RF logo to panel


There is a huge sound difference now from the OEM 6x9's.

 

[audio1der]

Looks like it will be a very clean install- should provide nice crisp sound.

 

[Etroze86]

looks like the makings of a great sounding system. Lets see the enclosure when you have it done.

 

[BadHabit2Break]

So after doing some listening to the rears, I was not happy. Seems alot of bass and mids were gone. So I pulled the door panel off and built an enclosure for them.

They now sound alot better than trying to use the door airspace as an enclosure for the speakers. The sound outside the door is alot quieter also. I will do the same for the front door speakers also.

Here is a pic of what i did today. The product is called Seel N Peel.

 

[BadHabit2Break]

So today I went out and pulled the front door panels off and installed the RF 165-S front components.

I hope after break in, these sound better than after first hooking them up. Seems like alot of mids missing and the tweets are really loud. If anything, my AC LCQ-1 will help that issue.

shot of the OEM and the RF 165-S speakers side by side


shot of the RF 165-S in the plate


back view of plate


door panel removed


close up of the removed OEM 6x9


enclosure built for the RF 165-S


RF 165-S installed in door




I put the door panels back on and added the RF logo to the panel like I did the rear doors.

 

[adrianp89]

I would imagine that "enclosure" is hurting mid-bass performance. How did you sum the signal?

 

[BadHabit2Break]

I would imagine that "enclosure" is hurting mid-bass performance. How did you sum the signal?

I dont think the "enclosure" is hurting it. Once my amp and crossovers are in place and the speakers are broken in, they will be alot better.

Right now everything is running off the OEM HU, 8.4A.

 

[adrianp89]

Your "break-in" will not show a significant improvement in mid-bass. The speakers are designed to be ran IB in a door. Limiting their airspace will limit their performance. If your amplifier isn't hooked up yet, that is your primary problem.

 

[BadHabit2Break]

Your "break-in" will not show a significant improvement in mid-bass. The speakers are designed to be ran IB in a door. Limiting their airspace will limit their performance. If your amplifier isn't hooked up yet, that is your primary problem.

Next step is doing the "Big 3" then hooking up the amp. So hopefully by the end of the week or begining of next week the amp and LCQ-1 should be in.

 

[Etroze86]

I agree with Adrian, for sure open that enclosure in the door and see what happens. Oh and if you can stop sound from resonating into the door card by isolating the speaker with foam that will help your midbass as well.

 

[BadHabit2Break]

I would imagine that "enclosure" is hurting mid-bass performance. How did you sum the signal?

So I took your advice and removed the back wall of the "enclosure". Put everything back and started listening to different things. I have to say, it sounds alot better now.

Thanks for the advice.

Also tore apart the center console and center dash for the radio. Planning on where to run my wires from the back to the front where I need them.

 

[BadHabit2Break]

I agree with Adrian, for sure open that enclosure in the door and see what happens. Oh and if you can stop sound from resonating into the door card by isolating the speaker with foam that will help your midbass as well.

Are you talking about foam like this

Mobile Solutions F.A.S.T. Rings 6" x 9" Speaker Enhancer Kit (IA-FAST-6X9CA)

 

[kg93]

probably something like this Boom Mat 6"x9" Speaker Baffles (Slim-line: 3-1/2" depth) Protect your speakers Regular and slim-line sizes at Crutchfield.com

then you put a hole in the bottom

 

[adrianp89]

Are you talking about foam like this

Mobile Solutions F.A.S.T. Rings 6" x 9" Speaker Enhancer Kit (IA-FAST-6X9CA)

No experience, but I plan on using these in my own. I have read awesome things.

 

[Etroze86]

Are you talking about foam like this

Mobile Solutions F.A.S.T. Rings 6" x 9" Speaker Enhancer Kit (IA-FAST-6X9CA)

Yes meant those and just watch out when you install the door panel that you don't squish the foam into the speaker cone.

 

[BadHabit2Break]

Yes meant those and just watch out when you install the door panel that you don't squish the foam into the speaker cone.

Guess when I instal these, I will need to get some clay to hopefully see how far the door panel sits away from the speaker and cut the foam down.

 

[BadHabit2Break]

So the rain stopped for me today, been raining all week. So I decided to run outside and install my Big 3 upgrade.

Tools needed:
1/4" rachet
3/8" rachet
1/4" 8mm, 10mm
3/8" 10mm, 13mm
wire cutters
zip ties

So the kit I bought is a XS Power BIG3XP big 3 upgrade from sonicelectronix.com This kit is already put together, so no crimping.

XS Power Big 3 Upgrade Kit - BIG3XP - Sonic Electronix

1. Remove stock airbox and inlet tube. 1/4" Rachet and 8mm socket. Loosen up the band clamps on the hose and pop the lid off. Remove the air filter, and then pull the bottom of the box up and out.


2. I ran my first ground from the grounding point by the ECU to the alternator bracket. 3/8" rachet and 10mm socket. Removed the bolt and put my ring terminal between the OEM ring terminal and the washer on the bolt. Tighten back up.


Connection on the alternator bracket.



3. I ran the next ground from the grounding point by the battery to the battery ground itself. 3/8" rachet and 10mm socket. Same as above for the body ground.


4. Unbolt the positive terminal from the battery and then run your positive wire from the kit from the battery to the positive output post on the back of the alternator. This is why you removed the air box.










Ziptied all my wiring down to existing harnesses.
I did cut some of the black cover for the alternator output to fit over the second wire and ziptied it in place.

 

[adrianp89]

Look great!

If you haven't yet, I would highly suggest putting some wire loom around it all. Not only does it make it look 100% factory, it will protect the wire from heat and rubbing.

 

[BadHabit2Break]

Look great!

If you haven't yet, I would highly suggest putting some wire loom around it all. Not only does it make it look 100% factory, it will protect the wire from heat and rubbing.

I agree. The kit did not come with any, so I am going to buy some and do that.