Just don't ever use the tow hooks. I'm sure there are a few pictures of people who unfortunately used them and suffered damage to the bumper and fender.
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Just don't ever use the tow hooks. I'm sure there are a few pictures of people who unfortunately used them and suffered damage to the bumper and fender.
You have a different front bumper than I do. My bumper is open between the tow hooks
The wiring is very basic. There's only 3 wires to the switch and it comes with its own relay. I seriously thought about going with the 40" curved but I couldn't get myself to ditch the tow hooks. JMHO.
I know people keep bagging on the tow hooks. From the little bit of searching I did it seems that it can pull the bumper out of alignment, but it can be adjusted back. The only major negative I saw was when someone used them to secure the truck to a flat bed tow truck. Now I've been stuck in the mud before and I can't think of anything worse than having to dig under the truck to find a place to hook up a tow strap (unless you bring a couple of hot looking women who want to mud wrestle while they're at it)Thanks, I really like the looks of yours I ordered hooks like you have but after seeing what can happen if you use them I don't think I'll put them on. I would think it should be pretty straight forward as far as wiring the bar up to my factory switches, time to do some searching!
I did not use the Rough Country brackets, however, using their brackets without the tow hooks would be the simplest solution. I made my own brackets using T straps that I got from Home Depot.Did you get the Rough Country brackets with your light? If its a easy bolt on deal with hooks and the lights I still may go that way.
sbarron (or anybody else who mounted behind the grill)... With the lights behind the grill, how is the output? How does it compare to kicking up fog lights with HID? What about out over a long distance? Looking back at the project, anything you would change, or have plans to change? (yes, thinking seriously about doing this!!!)I think the brackets you have will flex both side to side and for and back at that height with a light bar. It doesn't take very much wiggle to make a light unbearable to use
Mine are made of plate, flat bar, and angle iron. The angle iron works well as it stiffens and supports in all 3 axis. The biggest thing though is to anchor it top and bottom.
I have great output through the black mesh grill - I also paid the premium for Rigids and there is a difference. My 2 10" behind the grill put out every bit as much light as my co-workers 50 inch Chinese windshield mount bar. I can't say anything about HIDs in the fog light opening except I think being behind the grill will have a couple of advantages....
Less likely to be damaged by rocks/ road debris
Probably throw light a little further and wider being mounted a little higher.
Behind the grill, the lights are pretty secure from someone stealing them.
In short, no regrets except I would probably run the ambers I have in a dual row rather than the single I have.
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Why increase the ambers?
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A 30" light bar won't fit between the stock tow hooks. Some people cut off part of the stock tow hooks to make the light bar fit but I didn't want to do that. I replaced my tow hooks with tow hooks I found on ebay. The aftermarket tow hooks gave me enough room to mount a 30" light bar. If you keep the stock tow hooks only a 20" light bar fits (unless you can find a 28" bar). I think you can fit a 40" light bar if you remove the tow hooks (which I didn't want to do)