Need trailer hitch for factory RAM Class IV hitch

[BlueGuyRedState]

Absolute noob to towing terminology, but need the tow bar and ball to fit our 2018 RAM 1500 Class IV factory hitch.

May have found the travel trailer we've been looking for - unexpectedly (of course) - and may need to drive a couple of states away to pick it up. Have the factory trailer brake controller, did some towing with BIL's Silverado with factory GM controller and a walk in cargo trailer so not a complete towing rookie, just not up on the lingo.

Trailer is a T@B 320 CS-S, maybe 2800 lbs max, just need a good basic setup for now. Reese parts at Menard's look promising:

https://www.menards.com/main/tools/...167451361.htm?tid=-6554610084770411815&ipos=2

In rural Nebraska so may need to do a mail order thing.

 

[MADDOG]

Get a hitch that matches your receiver spec, i.e., Class IV.

You can also go to etrailer.com to find what you need.

 

[pacofortacos]

Getting that one you listed might work, but you will need to get the correct ball size - just to get home.

Once you get the trailer, you might end up getting another one that has the correct amount of drop/rise needed for your truck/trailer combo.

 

[RamRod37]

a class 5 hitch is 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 to use the one you listed you will need a reducer sleeve
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MJ4JVNS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just went through this I had 3 2inch hitchs that I could not use so to avoid have another hitch just for the class 5 hitch I bought the above sleeve now I can use my 2 inch hitch since I will not be towing anything to require A class 5. My bad just noticed 1500 not 2500 class 4 not 5 sorry I should read closer woops

 

[chri5k]

I prefer not to use a reducer sleeve because the excess play makes the hitch rattle like crazy. When I put a 2" draw bar into the sleeve and the sleeve into the receiver I could move the ball up and down over 1" as there was that much slop in the system. Also, I like adjustable hitches so I can make sure the trailer rides level which important on a tandem or triple axle trailer. If the trailer does not ride level one axle will carry more weight than the other which can lead to premature failure of various components of the axle like tires, bearings or brakes.

I like this draw bar
https://amazon.com/gp/product/B01BYHM91A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And one of these clamps eliminates the remaining play and resulting rattle
https://amazon.com/gp/product/B07JDF79W9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[HAL9001]

If you're going to tow a travel trailer you're definitely going to need a Weight Distribution Hitch (WDH) with sway control.

This is the best one I've found. It lets you dial in the tongue weight (within limitations of course) which is very important. No other WDH can do this, setting them up is hit or miss.


You can purchase the hitch here.



There are less expensive WDHs but this one has the best features. The only one that's better is the Hensley but that's overkill at around $3200.

Yes, these hitches are very expensive but a WDH is essentially required for towing a travel trailer if you want the best and safest towing. If you don't want to spend this kind of money you can still get a WDH for as little as $170.

 

[RamRod37]

I prefer not to use a reducer sleeve because the excess play makes the hitch rattle like crazy. When I put a 2" draw bar into the sleeve and the sleeve into the receiver I could move the ball up and down over 1" as there was that much slop in the system. Also, I like adjustable hitches so I can make sure the trailer rides level which important on a tandem or triple axle trailer. If the trailer does not ride level one axle will carry more weight than the other which can lead to premature failure of various components of the axle like tires, bearings or brakes.

I like this draw bar
https://amazon.com/gp/product/B01BYHM91A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And one of these clamps eliminates the remaining play and resulting rattle
https://amazon.com/gp/product/B07JDF79W9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

yeah your correct about that it does have play in it. but mine was intended on temp till i got the one for a class 5 18 bucks vs 260.00 since im on vacation this week and watching my cash the other one just ws not going to fly for now but the other one has not been bad I have towed 104 miles with so far and not really heard any rattling yet got another 104 miles coming up wed
Amazon.com: CURT 45902 Adjustable Trailer Hitch Ball Mount, 2-1/2-Inch Receiver, 6-Inch Drop, 2 and 2-5/16-Inch Balls, 20,000 lbs: Automotive

 

[2003F350]

I still don't understand why people are against the sleeve adapters. The hitch is going to rattle in the receiver anyway. You won't notice any real difference in the level of noise.

How do I know? Because I've been running the sleeve in mine, unloaded, since I bought the truck. I leave a 2" ball back there unless I have to swap out for my 2 5/16" ball for the flatbed or the WDH for the camper. Unloaded, they ALL rattle the exact same.

As for what WDH to get - personally (and I've been around campers for my entire life), I would avoid ANY of them that combine the friction sway control with the weight distribution bars. I ALWAYS buy ones with the weight distribution bars and the separate friction sway control bar. Here's why:

So far as I can tell, the amount of sway control you have with the combination systems is COMPLETELY dependent on how much weight you are redistributing. With the separate sway control, that is not an issue, they are set independent of one another. It's call decoupling component systems, and it is ALWAYS better, by the numbers, to have systems not be dependent on each other.

Now, let's say you break a bar - entirely possible given the state of roads in the US. You immediately lose both systems. You no longer have sway control, and you no longer have weight distribution. Either one of these alone is scary enough, now have them BOTH happen at the same time. You are going to need a LOT of luck to come out of it without more damage or an accident.

I'm just saying that a lot of these style hitches are, from an engineering standpoint, NOT as good as what has been tried-and-true for decades. Sure, they're simpler to hook up because you only have to mess with the bars, but that's NOT always a good thing.

 

[Toddbigboytruck]

If you're going to tow a travel trailer you're definitely going to need a Weight Distribution Hitch (WDH) with sway control.

This is the best one I've found. It lets you dial in the tongue weight (within limitations of course) which is very important. No other WDH can do this, setting them up is hit or miss.


You can purchase the hitch here.

View attachment 240310

There are less expensive WDHs but this one has the best features. The only one that's better is the Hensley but that's overkill at around $3200.

Yes, these hitches are very expensive but a WDH is essentially required for towing a travel trailer if you want the best and safest towing. If you don't want to spend this kind of money you can still get a WDH for as little as $170.

I personally like the round bar with the additional sway. But I agree you need the Wright distribution

 

[dhay13]

2800lb trailer? You should be fine without a WDH on that light of a trailer.

But yeah, the sleeves do rattle quite a bit more. But I never leave my insert in so I'm used to it being quiet. etrailer is a great place to buy from.

My son has the Husky TS Centerline WDH with built in sway control and it works great. I towed it about 400 miles with my 2013 1500 and it worked great given it was a 1500 with about a 7000lb TT. With his 2500 you barely ever get any sway at all. He has towed it about 7000 miles and I went with him on one of the 1400 mile trips and you could barely tell it was back there. Not meaning power wise but handling wise.

 

[crash68]

As stated above, there should be no problem towing 3K with just a draw bar, I've dragged the similar for many times like that.
Not sure why anyone is talking about a Class V hitch with an adapter sleeve, the OP has a Class IV.
@BlueGuyRedState look if there is a U-Haul somewhere in the area where you live or where your picking up the trailer, they will usually have draw bars in multiple drop/rise sizes along with hitch ball sizes. You'll want a draw bar that has the trailer level as possible.

 

[csuder99]

I used to tow a similar size trailer (WolfPup). You likely need a 4" drop hitch with a 2" ball. Definitely not a weight distributing hitch, lightweight trailers occasionally get damaged by using them.

Edit: See here for example of damage: https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/...-the-tongue-on-their-tt-slx174bh-52659-2.html

 

[Gr8bawana]

I have a Mopar brand adapter that I leave in the hitch all the time. There is no rattling with or without a trailer attached.

 

[BlueGuyRedState]

Thanks everyone! Will be buying an adjustable trailer hitch from area Harbor Freight for now - just need to get the trailer home from Indiana for now. The T@B trailers do NOT do well with WDH units - these warp the T@B C channel frame - so we'll be looking at things to limit sway on this light (approx. 2800 lbs) trailer. Learn more here if you're looking at small travel trailer options:

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/

 

[BlueGuyRedState]

Thanks everyone! Will be buying an adjustable trailer hitch from area Harbor Freight for now - just need to get the trailer home from Indiana first. The T@B trailers do NOT do well with WDH units - these warp the T@B C channel frame - so we'll be looking at things to limit sway on this light (approx. 2800 lbs) trailer. Learn more here if you're looking at small travel trailer options:

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/

 

[dhay13]

Thanks everyone! Will be buying an adjustable trailer hitch from area Harbor Freight for now - just need to get the trailer home from Indiana first. The T@B trailers do NOT do well with WDH units - these warp the T@B C channel frame - so we'll be looking at things to limit sway on this light (approx. 2800 lbs) trailer. Learn more here if you're looking at small travel trailer options:

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/

Like I said above, with a 2800lb trailer you should be fine with a regular insert. No need for WDH or anti-sway

 

[GTyankee]

I like the selection of hitches & accessories that have on the eTrailer site

Just going to that site & seeing the part, reading a detailed description, etc.
Decided for me which part to buy, whether i ordered through them or locally

 

[crash68]

The T@B trailers do NOT do well with WDH units - these warp the T@B C channel frame - so we'll be looking at things to limit sway on this light (approx. 2800 lbs) trailer.

If your having sway issues with a trailer, look at how it's loaded. Keep the bulk of the cargo in the trailer as close to center (side to side) and from over the axle forward to the hitch. Other thing is how level the trailer is, usually slightly nose low but wouldn't hurt to try slightly nose high.
You can get away control bars without a WDH.

 

[csuder99]

Thanks everyone! Will be buying an adjustable trailer hitch from area Harbor Freight for now - just need to get the trailer home from Indiana for now. The T@B trailers do NOT do well with WDH units - these warp the T@B C channel frame - so we'll be looking at things to limit sway on this light (approx. 2800 lbs) trailer. Learn more here if you're looking at small travel trailer options:

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/

With such a short and light trailer you won't have sway (unless you deliberately load pavers in the back... . One of my buddies tows a T@b 320 with a Tacoma with nothing but a simple hitch.

 

[Toddbigboytruck]

I used to tow a similar size trailer (WolfPup). You likely need a 4" drop hitch with a 2" ball. Definitely not a weight distributing hitch, lightweight trailers occasionally get damaged by using them.

Edit: See here for example of damage: https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/...-the-tongue-on-their-tt-slx174bh-52659-2.html

I read the articles and it does. To say that the wdh did the bend. The bend in that article was neat the trailer not in the area that the wdh is

personally I would check with the trailer manufacturer. What they recommend. If you don’t use a wdh I would still consider a sway control arm. You will have to determine what is the weight change on your front wheels as well as the angle change of your headlights if you don’t use a wdh.

I had a 2800lbs trailer and he’ll I pulled it all over Canada and USA with a wdh and a mini van. Oh no here comes the forum tow police. My new trailer is only 4400 empty and I still use wdh