Sorry dudeman I'm not ignoring you and I went threw your list and found out about the injector problem
I'll start by saying that no apology is needed, I wasn't offended, I just let loose a little bit. Sometimes I forget that people on here aren't as self righteous as my old co-workers. I'm happy to help almost anyone, even my old co-workers, at least the ones that didn't go around and brag about how they solved the issue to everyone else.
I do apologize for being short with you, it was unnecessary and rash.
Since we know that the injectors are cutting out after a few seconds, and then the engine dies. The fuel pressure is good, the injectors are working, before they shut down it runs well enough to rev that high. We can go with the ignition system being good, as well as getting enough air. Since the injectors shut down we can probably rule out any low fuel issue.
Since it only runs for a few seconds, before the PCM shuts it down, i's be looking at sensor inputs. Its highly unlikely the new PCM is damaged as well.
One of the critical sensor inputs is the crankshaft position sensor. If the PCM doesnt receive input from this sensor within 3 seconds of operation, it shuts down. Then the engine freewheels until friction brings it to a stop.
It will still crank in this condition as the PCM only shuts down the ASD relay. The ASD relay controls spark, fuel injectors, and I believe the fuel pump relay.
Since you also have no tach, the crankshaft sensor is very suspect as that is what the PCM uses to determine the engine rpm.
I would check your crankshaft sensor. It is possible that the connector has been damaged or unplugged. It is a hall effect sensor that uses a chopper gear to determine crankshaft position. If the little reed inside has broken off, or it has been smacked hard enough, it will need to be replaced.
Attached is a picture of the location of the sensor. It is located on the passenger side of the engine right beside the transmission bell housing.
If you wish to test the part before throwing one at it, take a multimeter and check the following.
On the connector that plugs into the sensor, the tab is the top of the connector. Take your multimeter and connect the negative to a known good ground (the battery negative will work as well) Then probe the rightmost pin (violet/white) and have someone turn the key to run but do not try to start it (you can pull the starter relay if you feel like it). You should read right near 5v. If that is good, set your multimeter to resistance or continuity, and keep one probe on a known ground and use the other lead to probe the middle pin(black/light blue). Turn the key to run, you should see near 0 0hms or a beeping (this will not hurt the PCM as it is used to seeing a 4-5v signal on this pin and nearly all Digital multimeters use a 3.7v probing voltage. If both those are good, then the wire leading to the PCM is good (with exception of the leftmost wire, that is the signal wire and cannot be tested without pulling the PCM harness)
If you wish to test the crankshaft sensor, though it is not nessesary, you will need to have someone hand crank the engine, while the key is in run while you are back probing the wire while plugged into the crankshaft sensor. You would be probing the remaining pin (grey/black) and with the multimeter attached to a good ground and in DC volts, you would be looking for a 4-5v pulse as the engine is hand cranked.
Just note, back probing with a paper clip will damage the weather seal on the connector, its best to use a proper back probe tool, even then damage is still possible.