Oil Consumption-Can Anything Be Done?

[Sean J Blackburn]

Thinking about trying FTC-Decarbonizer on a 2007 Honda Civic myself.

https://www.proadditives.com/excessive-engine-oil-use/

Bought 4 years ago with no history on vehicle with 121k on odometer, now has 156k
It has always used about 1 quart of oil every 2k.
Other than oil consumption no other issues.

RedLine SL-1 used several times over the years along with Amsoil PI.
For all I know rings may have lost there tension or was this way from the factory.
Looking dipstick & under valve cover looks like previous owner went to long on the OCI.
Thinking maybe rings could be caked.
Trying HPL engine cleaner to solve this.

Engine Cleaner

HPL Engine Cleaner is designed for those who wish to clean deposits in their engines left behind from commodity type lubricants that are designed to “meet the spec.” Engine Cleaner is specially formulated and fortified with detergents and dispersants providing safe cleaning in the engine. When...

www.advlubrication.com

I clicked the link, it looks like a 30w oil

Thinking about trying FTC-Decarbonizer on a 2007 Honda Civic myself.

https://www.proadditives.com/excessive-engine-oil-use/

Bought 4 years ago with no history on vehicle with 121k on odometer, now has 156k
It has always used about 1 quart of oil every 2k.
Other than oil consumption no other issues.

RedLine SL-1 used several times over the years along with Amsoil PI.
For all I know rings may have lost there tension or was this way from the factory.
Looking dipstick & under valve cover looks like previous owner went to long on the OCI.
Thinking maybe rings could be caked.
Trying HPL engine cleaner to solve this.

Engine Cleaner

HPL Engine Cleaner is designed for those who wish to clean deposits in their engines left behind from commodity type lubricants that are designed to “meet the spec.” Engine Cleaner is specially formulated and fortified with detergents and dispersants providing safe cleaning in the engine. When...

www.advlubrication.com

I clicked the link, it looks like that product is a 30 weight oil with additional detergents etc. If you use it, post back with the results and let us know how it did.

 

[crackerjack1957]

I clicked the link, it looks like a 30w oil

I clicked the link, it looks like that product is a 30 weight oil with additional detergents etc. If you use it, post back with the results and let us know how it did.

Will be a couple a months before I see results on the HPL engine cleaner.
Just did an oil & filter change last weekend and only have 180 miles on it and thats all I average every week.
HPL recommends to closely monitor the oil filter and change more frequently as needed.

Not expecting the engine cleaner to do anything for the combustion chamber & rings.

Update:
Not purchasing the FTC decarbonizer.......the only good reviews are on their site, no where else.
Will probably end up pulling spark plugs & soak pistons & rings with Kano Kreen for about 2 days.

 

[Sean J Blackburn]

I realize one guy with a borescope does not make a scientific study, but the results are interesting nonetheless! Here's a before and after video of redline fuel system cleaner taken with a borescope down the plug holes. Cylinder 3 impressed me!

Does Redline Complete Fuel System Cleaner SL-1 Works? YES!!! With Evidence!!!

NOTE: I am not sponsored or affiliated with Redline and/or its partners. This is solely my own interest and out of my own pocket.Following my initial video ...

youtu.be

 

[Sean J Blackburn]

Will be a couple a months before I see results on the HPL engine cleaner.
Just did an oil & filter change last weekend and only have 180 miles on it and thats all I average every week.
HPL recommends to closely monitor the oil filter and change more frequently as needed.

Not expecting the engine cleaner to do anything for the combustion chamber & rings.

Update:
Not purchasing the FTC decarbonizer.......the only good reviews are on their site, no where else.
Will probably end up pulling spark plugs & soak pistons & rings with Kano Kreen for about 2 days.

Way to do your due diligence! Unfortunately there are a lot of dishonest companies (and people) out there that are just after your money.

 

[ppine]

You have just made the case for owning a diesel. You are at the mileage point when gas engines start to get tired. Diesels don't even notice that kind of mileage. The $10k up front is hardly noticeable.

 

[crackerjack1957]

Have a 2006 Honda Civic 1.8 with 210,000 miles & burns no oil between 5K OCI.
The 2007 has the same engine with 50,000 less miles & uses 1 quart every 2k.
The difference, the previous owners.
The 2006 has a clean internal engine.
The 2007 has a dirty internal engine.

Both these cars were totaled being hit in the rear. Bought as salvaged repaired.
$4600 for the 2006 model LX in the year 2015
$5200 for the 2007 model EX in the year 2018
Most reliable/economical vehicles owned for driving to work & other trips. Easy to service also.
Keeps mileage off our 2014 Ram & 2014 Jeep Cherokee.

 

[Sean J Blackburn]

You have just made the case for owning a diesel. You are at the mileage point when gas engines start to get tired. Diesels don't even notice that kind of mileage. The $10k up front is hardly noticeable.

I had a 5.9 Cummins and loved it. Unfortunately I wasn't in a financial position to buy another when that truck got wrecked as I was in college and just starting out. When this truck gives up the ghost I'm definitely getting another Cummins, the Cummins is better than the hemi in every way for the type of use I need it for.

 

[Tominator223]

Keep the air filter changed & clean. If it’s a ring issue. A dirty air filter will cause it to burn more oil. Because it’s going to get that air somewhere

 

[Bfleming]

My truck is a 2010 1500 with the 5.7. I just rolled over to 170k miles.

I'm using about 1 quart every 2400 miles. I'm aware dodge says 1 quart per 1k miles is normal.

I've changed the pcv valve and noticed little difference. There is oil in my throttle body, which is why I changed the pcv valve about 1200 miles ago.

My question: since I've got 170k on the engine, is the best course of action to just occasionally top off the oil? Can anything be done, such as switching oil brands, additives like seafoam in the crankcase, etc., to try to slow the oil consumption? This is my 3rd ram and the first one I've had that uses oil. Seems unusual to me.

Thanks all

I run 10w30 in my Hemi’s and have put 2-300 thousand on several of them with no lifter failure and less oil consumption

 

[Shepherdguy]

It sounds like you just need to use a cheap oil and get as much mileage as you can before replacing her altogether. Please be aware also that with heavy oil consumption your catalytic converter is going to take a hit and a failed smog test could bring you to the end of your journey, forcing her into early retirement.

 

[0x00]

Keep an eye on it an try better oil (full syn). The mobile 1 recommendation above is good because it's one of the cheaper options (5qt jug versus gallons). I use a lot of super tech, too, and rotella T6 when I get a deal.

I say keep an eye on it and keep records. Many people don't appreciate the fact that ICEs ALL burn oil. They don't see it on the dipstick because it gets replaced by some of the water from combustion. I almost always find condensed water in the oil fill cap (I wipe it out but the head covers probably have lots more; or maybe not since they are metal and stay hotter). After typical short drive cycles, oil is burned off and replaced with water. Then, when you make a long trip in warm conditions the water boils off and the 'oil level mysteriously suddenly drops a lot.' It is totally normal.

I got an 2003 5.7 with 268K miles. I have seen surprising consumption before (like, finding it 2 qts low) but it is not happening each and every change. Through warranty I believe I fed it assortments of 5w-30 supertech (early--hmmm was the supertech even available then?) then lots of Rotella T6 and sometimes 0W-40 euro. At some point I had a drum of DELO 10-30 (was hard to get). As soon as warranty ended I extended the drain interval to 8K to 10K miles depending on how low I found it during the interval. If it never got low, it got dumped at 10K miles. If I found it low a quart, maybe I go 8K. If I found it really low, maybe 6-7K. In other words, if it was 2 qts low, just dump it as it probably went 5000+ miles already so buy 7 qts new and a filter instead of buy 2 qts new and continue (both would be totally fine).

Use quality oil. It's not expensive. There's a quality label on every container, learn what it means. ALL DELO (diesel engine lube oils--not the brand name) meets the highest gasoline specs. That is, A DELO is suitable for gasoline applications where viscosity matches (WARNING I don't know anything about the new Dexos1 requirements) (rotella T6 is OK for gas engine). A gasoline-only rated oil (Moile 1 0W-40) DOES NOT MEET DELO SPECS and is not labeled as such. It's might OK but it is not labeled for use in compression ignition applications (for example CH-4). The service designation label on DELO always (in my experience) is dual rated, as in: CH-4 / SN.

 

[Sean J Blackburn]

It sounds like you just need to use a cheap oil and get as much mileage as you can before replacing her altogether. Please be aware also that with heavy oil consumption your catalytic converter is going to take a hit and a failed smog test could bring you to the end of your journey, forcing her into early retirement.

This is one reason I believe a catch can was recommended, so that the truck isn't plugging up the cat.

 

[Sean J Blackburn]

Keep an eye on it an try better oil (full syn). The mobile 1 recommendation above is good because it's one of the cheaper options (5qt jug versus gallons). I use a lot of super tech, too, and rotella T6 when I get a deal.

I say keep an eye on it and keep records. Many people don't appreciate the fact that ICEs ALL burn oil. They don't see it on the dipstick because it gets replaced by some of the water from combustion. I almost always find condensed water in the oil fill cap (I wipe it out but the head covers probably have lots more; or maybe not since they are metal and stay hotter). After typical short drive cycles, oil is burned off and replaced with water. Then, when you make a long trip in warm conditions the water boils off and the 'oil level mysteriously suddenly drops a lot.' It is totally normal.

I got an 2003 5.7 with 268K miles. I have seen surprising consumption before (like, finding it 2 qts low) but it is not happening each and every change. Through warranty I believe I fed it assortments of 5w-30 supertech (early--hmmm was the supertech even available then?) then lots of Rotella T6 and sometimes 0W-40 euro. At some point I had a drum of DELO 10-30 (was hard to get). As soon as warranty ended I extended the drain interval to 8K to 10K miles depending on how low I found it during the interval. If it never got low, it got dumped at 10K miles. If I found it low a quart, maybe I go 8K. If I found it really low, maybe 6-7K. In other words, if it was 2 qts low, just dump it as it probably went 5000+ miles already so buy 7 qts new and a filter instead of buy 2 qts new and continue (both would be totally fine).

Use quality oil. It's not expensive. There's a quality label on every container, learn what it means. ALL DELO (diesel engine lube oils--not the brand name) meets the highest gasoline specs. That is, A DELO is suitable for gasoline applications where viscosity matches (WARNING I don't know anything about the new Dexos1 requirements) (rotella T6 is OK for gas engine). A gasoline-only rated oil (Moile 1 0W-40) DOES NOT MEET DELO SPECS and is not labeled as such. It's might OK but it is not labeled for use in compression ignition applications (for example CH-4). The service designation label on DELO always (in my experience) is dual rated, as in: CH-4 / SN.

I've been running Mobil 1 extended performance high mileage full synthetic, I might try switching to redline as I've had good luck with their gear oils.

 

[0x00]

also, I would't put penzoil or quaker state oil in anything. I struggle to put those oils in my lawnmower when people gave them to me for free. If the oil is a weird color, avoid it. no fluorescent penzoil, no magic purple crap, none of it without a good reason (pentosin in a Porsche; maybe). no additives unless desperate. no plastic teflon. no arco graphite. IF desperate (rattle that won't go away, gunked up by the previous owner, etc) then, after a lot of deliberation, maybe run 15% ATF or a dose of seafoam or your favorite (BG Chemical?) tune up in a can. I have opened a few high mile engines (spark and diesel) and they stay spotless with good oil (even 15W-40 conventional delo). Only if you suspect the P.O. really abused it (no oil changes) are the rings gonna be stuck in the grooves or will you find sludge in the head covers. the new stuff (1980s an up) stays minty fresh inside. The old stuff, after some years with good oil is clean when opened (1979 IH scout II, 1960 dart slant 6, 1974 volvo 2 liter.....I have never been disappointed opening up anything that I owned for 2 years or longer, they stay clean).

 

[Cruze418]

My Chrysler 200 had a 2.4 Tigershark engine. Diagnosed with poor ring design, used oil right from the git go.
At 75,000, I ran a Hot Shot sticktion additive, then after the next oil change, I added Hot Shot FR 3 friction additive, engine dipstick went halfway down the add mark and stopped. It didn't use any
more oil after that, on that oil change. I did sell the vehicle, so I do not have results down the road. Maybe that would work for you. Going to use FR 3 in all of my vehicles forward, maybe not full strength, but I am going to use it to some degree.

 

[Sean J Blackburn]

My Chrysler 200 had a 2.4 Tigershark engine. Diagnosed with poor ring design, used oil right from the git go.
At 75,000, I ran a Hot Shot sticktion additive, then after the next oil change, I added Hot Shot FR 3 friction additive, engine dipstick went halfway down the add mark and stopped. It didn't use any
more oil after that, on that oil change. I did sell the vehicle, so I do not have results down the road. Maybe that would work for you. Going to use FR 3 in all of my vehicles forward, maybe not full strength, but I am going to use it to some degree.

I will check this out if the other suggestions do not help, thanks!

 

[crackerjack1957]

If you use the same brand name oil in multiple vehicles & only 1 burns oil.......you can't blame it on the brand name.....LoL

 

[Sean J Blackburn]

If you use the same brand name oil in multiple vehicles & only 1 burns oil.......you can't blame it on the brand name.....LoL

I only have one vehicle and I use Mobil 1 extended performance high mileage synthetic. Pretty sure it's not the oil (as in totally sure lol). Might try another brand when I switch to 5w30 to see if that helps at all. I've always used Mobil 1 in all of the vehicles I've had and have never had a problem with burning oil before

 

[crackerjack1957]

I only have one vehicle and I use Mobil 1 extended performance high mileage synthetic. Pretty sure it's not the oil (as in totally sure lol). Might try another brand when I switch to 5w30 to see if that helps at all. I've always used Mobil 1 in all of the vehicles I've had and have never had a problem with burning oil before

Was kinda referring to my vehicles.
4 on Pennzoil Platinum high mileage full syn 5w-30.
Someone above said Pennzoil & Quaker State were bad.
Borescope coming in this week, will gets some photos in the combustion chamber of the Civics to compare the 1 that burns oil & the 1 that don't.

 

[Sean J Blackburn]

Was kinda referring to my vehicles.
4 on Pennzoil Platinum high mileage full syn 5w-30.
Someone above said Pennzoil & Quaker State were bad.
Borescope coming in this week, will gets some photos in the combustion chamber of the Civics to compare the 1 that burns oil & the 1 that don't.

Oh OK, I missed that. Keep us updated on the borescope!