Random extended cranking help needed

[BrianandChrissy]

Happened to one of my fords. First time it was the ignition module, which was located on the frame above the spare tire...ingenious place. Second time, it was because the filter was severely plugged up. Not nearly enough pressure coming out the engine side.

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[05HemiRam]

I have correct fu pressure. It's been checked 14 times. Ha ha. Always been around 62-64lbs

 

[XXSNOTRODXX]

My issue is to intermittent to even begin to properly diagnose. For instance, mine hasn't given me any extended cranking issues in months!. I also have new fuel filter, spark plugs and new s&b cold air intake. So none of that is in issue. Fairly certain its electrical related. Either a lag in the ignition signal or a lag in the pcm sending out the start signal or something. It has never not started. Just the rare instance of turning the key and engine cranking for 5 or so seconds before it actually starts.

 

[05HemiRam]

That's about the way mine is now. Might have a long crank every 10 starts.

 

[XCELLR8]

My issue is to intermittent to even begin to properly diagnose. For instance, mine hasn't given me any extended cranking issues in months!. I also have new fuel filter, spark plugs and new s&b cold air intake. So none of that is in issue. Fairly certain its electrical related. Either a lag in the ignition signal or a lag in the pcm sending out the start signal or something. It has never not started. Just the rare instance of turning the key and engine cranking for 5 or so seconds before it actually starts.

I am thinking this is a WIN module on its way out. I have been tracking mine over the last few months and new symptoms have started. One time when I was trying to start the truck my display stated that the wrong key was in the ignition and would not crank. And a couple of times when I turned the key my dash went black (no lights) and the truck would not even turn over. Release the key and go back to start the truck and it fires right up. Its so intermittent that troublshooting is next to impossible, because it catches you off guard when it does it.

 

[05HemiRam]

My buddy, (who does all of my work) also thought it could be the key, but it does it with either key in it. So we're still lost on it. Maybe one day it'll get fixed

 

[StoneDude76]

I yo have extended cranking. Seems to be more of a issue then I thought. I was over at the Z forum and some members over there fixed it with a new ambient air temp sensor. I am at a loss so I am going to try to replace that. It's only 12 dollars so what the hell. If it fixes it awesome.

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[05HemiRam]

Keep us posted if it works.

 

[XCELLR8]

X2^^

 

[Wilsaaron]

Here is an update on my random extended cranking issue: I had the truck to the dealer multiple times for diagnostics, a fuel pump relay bypass, new fuel pump, crank position sensor, etc etc, none of which solved the issue. They kept saying all the engine and fuel readings were correct. I took it in one final time as requested by my Chrysler Customer Service Rep, and the dealer tech was able to locate an issue with the wiring harness at the accelerator pedal position sensor. Basically the harness was not fully closed, resulting in a bad connection to the accel position sensor. He detached the harness connector, added contact promoter, and reattached securely. I Have had the truck back for almost 2 weeks now with no recurrence of the issue. Prior to my last visit the extended cranking was happening 1-3 times per week. Hope this helps some others out there, but my particular case seems pretty isolated. Unfortunately it was a difficult diagnosis that likely could not be replicated or identified by the home mechanic.

 

[breal201999]

This actually sounds like it might be the same symptom I have with my 2005 G6. It's done this intermittently since I bought it new. The only remedy I've found was on those occasions where it struggles, I put my foot on the gas like a carbureted engine. Shouldn't have to do this on fuel injection of course, but that leads me to wonder if mine is related to accelerator pedal position sensor as yours. Appreciate the follow up

 

[05HemiRam]

I bought a Bully Dog GT for mine, it's helping with the long crank. Still does it, but not as often. Going to try to pull the plug on the pedal and put some good grease on it.

 

[XXSNOTRODXX]

Mine has not acted up in quite awhile. But I will check the connector for the hell of it. However, my wifes 05 Grand Cherokee with the Hemi has an extended crank quite often. always starts, But it will crank for a few seconds before firing every once and awhile. I will check hers also.

And I had a Bullydog GT tuner on my truck for a minute but I got rid of it because it made my truck shift like total crap lol

 

[ericdraven]

me too.

New member here and looking for answers. I am having the same problems (exactly) as the original poster. They just started though. I have had the truck for a few years without issues but the last couple of weeks I have started having the random crank-non-start issue. It seems to be getting more frequent, both yesterday and the day before after work and this morning before work. I am hoping it doesn't get worse. I have not let it crank more than 4-5 seconds at a time so i haven't let it keep going till it runs. I turn the key off when it does it and try to start again sometimes 3-4 times before it starts normal.

The only other thing that has been happening is the passenger door lock will rapidly fire 4-5 times when locking or unlocking the truck. This has been going on for a few months so I doubt this is the issue but on another forum i read there is a sensor on the lock that affects the start sequence.
This seems to be an issue with many so why hasn't there been a fix yet?

Oh, and my brakes started feeling squishy the last couple of weeks. The pads are like new so i am not sure what this is. I have changed a rear drivers side caliper several months ago and it bled out fine and was fine after.

I have a 2011 Power Wagon, 5.7 with 72,000 miles. Original battery but seems strong and I have changed plugs at 60,000.

 

[XCELLR8]

New member here and looking for answers. I am having the same problems (exactly) as the original poster. They just started though. I have had the truck for a few years without issues but the last couple of weeks I have started having the random crank-non-start issue. It seems to be getting more frequent, both yesterday and the day before after work and this morning before work. I am hoping it doesn't get worse. I have not let it crank more than 4-5 seconds at a time so i haven't let it keep going till it runs. I turn the key off when it does it and try to start again sometimes 3-4 times before it starts normal.

The only other thing that has been happening is the passenger door lock will rapidly fire 4-5 times when locking or unlocking the truck. This has been going on for a few months so I doubt this is the issue but on another forum i read there is a sensor on the lock that affects the start sequence.
This seems to be an issue with many so why hasn't there been a fix yet?

Oh, and my brakes started feeling squishy the last couple of weeks. The pads are like new so i am not sure what this is. I have changed a rear drivers side caliper several months ago and it bled out fine and was fine after.

I have a 2011 Power Wagon, 5.7 with 72,000 miles. Original battery but seems strong and I have changed plugs at 60,000.

My opinion is it sounds like your TIPM is giving you problems on the no start issue. You can look in your TIPM box to see if there is a bypass wire in there. Do a search on "Ram TIPM" and read away. I have a diferent problem, as I have the bypass wire in the TIPM box and my extended crank only happens one time. When I turn key off and restart, it starts right up.

 

[ericdraven]

Door Actuator

I replaced my actuator to rule this out of the equation. So far (2 starts) it has started without issue. I doubt this will help but at least it doesn't rapid fire the lock anymore.

FYI to get the actuator out, it is attached to the mid door panel also. You have to remove the glass from the inner door panel by lowering it to about 3 inches from bottom, remove door speaker and little access panel door to access the clips that hold the window on the rails. Then pull window up, tape it up in place and then take the inner panel off. Disconnect the outside door handle rod from the actuator and the wires here and there, then the door panel will come off. Then you can remove the actuator from the inner door panel to replace. Took me about 1.5 hours not knowing what I was doing. Now it would be less than 30 minutes knowing I have to take inner door panel off. I was hoping it would come out without going to all that hassle.

UPDATE: the truck started the no start issue after about 3 days and kept doing it daily, see update below:

 

[Wilsaaron]

Ok, Here is an update on my extended crank issue. After my last post in August the truck went a few weeks without recurrence, then the extended crank showed up again. Had it back into the dealer earlier this month, where they removed the fuel pump bypass relay (that they put in 11 mo ago), replaced the TIPM, and replaced the fuel pump control module (which i was told is only on 2016 and 2017 models). Drove it for a week with no issues, then the extended crank returned again last week. So for now, I have no resolution on my problem to report. Trying to get a video of the extended crank during ignition, which i'll try to share soon.

 

[ericdraven]

Update:

Well after researching the hell out of my problem I found the website about the TIPM. Maybe it was mentioned above, I can't remember. Anyway, my truck wouldn't start after about five times in a row (at work, embarrassing) so I pulled out the bypass wire I just happened to make the night before and plugged it in the TIPM to bypass the fuel pump relay and it has started ever since without issues.
Shout out to Jason at Vertical Visions for all his efforts in fixing this problem.
Here is the site to read up on the problem to see if it will help you. If nothing else make a jumper wire to keep in the glove box in case you have this problem.
Vertical Visions - TIPM Test/Bypass Cables and Repairs, Engineering Services

 

[Dodge4x4810]

In my experiences dealing with these TIPM, I usually see that either the ASD relay is faulty or there is a problem in that circuit. From what I remember I think just a couple times it has been the fuel pump relay. Usually I see the problems in the caravans and Jeeps, not the Rams for some reason.

 

[Richard Jaslowski]

Here is an update on my random extended cranking issue: I had the truck to the dealer multiple times for diagnostics, a fuel pump relay bypass, new fuel pump, crank position sensor, etc etc, none of which solved the issue. They kept saying all the engine and fuel readings were correct. I took it in one final time as requested by my Chrysler Customer Service Rep, and the dealer tech was able to locate an issue with the wiring harness at the accelerator pedal position sensor. Basically the harness was not fully closed, resulting in a bad connection to the accel position sensor. He detached the harness connector, added contact promoter, and reattached securely. I Have had the truck back for almost 2 weeks now with no recurrence of the issue. Prior to my last visit the extended cranking was happening 1-3 times per week. Hope this helps some others out there, but my particular case seems pretty isolated. Unfortunately it was a difficult diagnosis that likely could not be replicated or identified by the home mechanic.

Where is the wiring connector located and how many pin connector? I am experiencing the same issue.