Rough Country 4/6" lift ball joint angles

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Moose328

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Hey all,

I'm looking into a RCX lift, either 4 or 6", haven't decided which. May just go with the 6" since it's only $100 more. I'm planning to keep my stock 20x9s because I actually like them, and running 35s.

But before I pull the trigger, can those of you who have it post pictures of the ball joint angles on your trucks? Thanks.
 

muddy12

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2012, 6”RCX. However, the weight of the winch behind the bumper has brought the front down a just a tad.
4891f38c2cafd9e3abedcd3cbcbc7bab.jpg


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Moose328

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Thanks for the photos! I just want to make sure the geometry of the ball joints is maintained with the lifted knuckle included in the kit; I'd hate to spend all that money for a kit and then the ball joints crap or control arms crap out because of improper geometry. I asked Rough Country's customer service and they said geometry would be fine, but I wanted to make sure from real people who aren't trying to sell me something what their experiences are.
 

muddy12

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At some point(IIRC it was around ‘13 or ‘14) the design of the upper control arms changed, and the later ones seemed to have more issues with the ball joints popping. There should be info about it around here someplace.

The thing to remember with any lift that uses a strut spacer (not just RC)is that once installed, it becomes possible to overextend the front suspension. This isn’t usually a concern for daily driving, and mild off road, but heavy off road use can cause issues(even more so with the later design control arms).


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Moose328

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At some point(IIRC it was around ‘13 or ‘14) the design of the upper control arms changed, and the later ones seemed to have more issues with the ball joints popping. There should be info about it around here someplace.

The thing to remember with any lift that uses a strut spacer (not just RC)is that once installed, it becomes possible to overextend the front suspension. This isn’t usually a concern for daily driving, and mild off road, but heavy off road use can cause issues(even more so with the later design control arms).


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I’m gonna end up getting the lifted struts, I’m not warm and fuzzy on the idea of a strut spacer
 

muddy12

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Yea I wanna eventually swap in those lift struts to get rid of those spacers.

Depending on the struts you get, you may have to keep the spacers.

For example, if I were to remove my strut spacer, and install bilstein 5100’s, the front of my truck would drop considerably. The 5100’s max height is 2.8” over stock. The strut spacers for my lift are somewhere between 5” and 6”.

A couple minutes on google shows that
Superlift, rough country, BDS, and zone all use strut spacers. It seems like both procomp, and fabtech use replacement struts or coil overs.


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JB1

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The thing to remember with any lift that uses a strut spacer (not just RC)is that once installed, it becomes possible to overextend the front suspension. This isn’t usually a concern for daily driving, and mild off road, but heavy off road use can cause issues(even more so with the later design control arms).

Can you explain your reasoning behind this statement?
I can see that to be true with a stock truck and spacers but not one with drop brackets and taller spindles. The top spacer just fills in the gap. The taller struts have a longer lower body to make up the gap, the actual strut has no more travel than a stock strut.
 
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muddy12

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Often times, the length of the strut spacer is greater than the amount that the drop brackets lower the lower control arms. The upper control arm may remain at the stock angle, but, the lower control arm, and axle shaft usually end up at an angle that is slightly more than stock. While this increased angle might be "within factory spec", repeated full extension is enough to cause binding/premature wear on the ball joints and CV joints.

And in all honesty, you are unlikely to see any issues with daily driving, or even mild off road use.
 

JB1

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So your saying the 6” RC strut they sell is a shorter overall length than the factory strut with the RC spacers therefore the strut will produce better angles?

Wouldn’t that mean less lift height?

I really don’t see your logic that an extended length strut is stronger than the top hat spacer on a lifted truck.
 
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muddy12

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So your saying the 6” RC strut they sell is a shorter overall length than the factory strut with the RC spacers therefore the strut will produce better angles?

Wouldn’t that mean less lift height?

I really don’t see your logic that an extended length strut is stronger than the top hat spacer on a lifted truck.


Lift amount and angles would be identical, or close to it at ride height.

The benefit of the replacement strut is that it would limit the down travel of the suspension to prevent ball joint and cv joint issues.
It has nothing to do with strength of one vs the other.


For example sake, let’s say that a stock strut bottoms out at 5” of down travel, and that is the max angle for the cv joints.

Now, let’s look at my truck with a 6” lift.
It has 6” strut spacers, but the drop brackets for the lower control arms only lower the arms by 4”. This difference means that at ride height, my lower control arms, and axle shafts are at a slightly steeper angle than stock, and can no longer tolerate the stock amount of down travel.

The stock strut with a spacer will still allow the same 5” of down travel, which because of the steeper angle at ride height, will push the cv joints past their acceptable angles.

The replacement struts are made to keep the same ride height, but the internal stops are designed to limit the max down travel to keep the cv and ball joints happy.


And again, in daily driving, this isn’t an issue. It only becomes an issue when you are repeatedly fully extending the front suspension.

Disclaimer: dimensions in my example are only approximations.


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JB1

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So by that analogy there’s no benefit to adding them on a RC 4” lift since everything is dropped/extended 4”
 

muddy12

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Pretty much. Only reason to add adjustable struts to that setup, would be if the lift left you with the factory rake, and you wanted it to be leveled.


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blackbeautyhemi

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So by that analogy there’s no benefit to adding them on a RC 4” lift since everything is dropped/extended 4”
I emailed rough country and asked if the truck sat the same as it does with the spacers in cause it sits real level now and they said that it would sit exactly the same. In the reviews on the link I posted, there’s a customer review with a red sport posted a pic of his truck with them in and it looks to be perfectly level.


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So- after reading this. If I wanted the 6" RCX lift on my 2015 Ram CC, then there is no reason for my to upgrade to the Lifted N2.0 struts (outside of maybe ride quality)?
 

blackbeautyhemi

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So- after reading this. If I wanted the 6" RCX lift on my 2015 Ram CC, then there is no reason for my to upgrade to the Lifted N2.0 struts (outside of maybe ride quality)?
The struts aren’t needed but I’d spend the extra $200 for new struts that won’t require putting in spacers. The ride won’t be as stiff from the compression spacers in the springs either.
 
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