Stripped Passenger Side Stub Shaft

[nursenick06]

Here’s an update to an issue I’ve been trying to figure out. After doing some digging, I found that the passenger side stub shaft (and of course the CV joint splines too) was almost completely stripped and that end of the CV joint was flopping around on the stub shaft. It wasn’t even close to trying to grab and wouldn’t stay seated all the way on the shaft because there was nothing left to grip. Hence the clunking noise and vibrations felt in the steering for awhile.

The problem is that you can’t buy a passenger side shaft for 2012 and up front differentials (don’t be fooled by CarID, who offer a driver and passenger side, which are exactly the same item from them and definitely NOT the correct part for the passenger side.
I definitely did not want to sink money into a brand new differential, so I purchased a used front diff from a wrecked 2014 with about 22k on it for about $370. The mounting ear was broken off from the passenger side, so I planned on either cutting it off mine and welding up on the new one, or digging into mine to see how the passenger side goes together and potentially just using my passenger housing on the newer diff with the newer diff passenger side parts. I opted for the latter after I took my passenger side off and saw how ridiculously simple it is. Unlike the driver side stub shaft, which you can just pull out with a few taps of a rubber mallet to help, the passenger side is retained in the housing with an internal snap ring that rides against a bearing mounted on the shaft. To get it out, you have to remove the passenger side housing and 4x4 locker to get it out. Here’s what it looks like apart:

The hardest part was getting that heavy duty snap ring out, which was even harder to get back in. Your standard snap ring pliers won’t work, so I ground the tips of a set of long 45 degree double-jointed Vice Grip pliers to fit the holes and they worked fine for that.
I got it back together, put new black RTV sealant on, and reattached to the pumpkin. After a 24hr cure, I refilled the diff and got my truck put back together. I also replaced the driver side stub shaft (it was removed and didn’t come with the new diff), and hubs and intermediate shafts on both sides (Timken hubs and ShurTrac shafts). No more noise and vibration, and I actually have 4x4 again!
Now I’m wondering why the hell we can’t buy passenger side stub shafts from the dealer (or elsewhere for that matter)? I get it that it’s not as simple as the driver side, but it’s not a “non-serviceable” part as FCA likes to claim it is! I actually could have avoided pulling my entire diff out - a PITA in itself - and just drained and pulled the passenger housing off and kept my diff in place instead. Of course now I’ve got a low-mileage diff for a fraction of what a new one would have cost, and no labor cost besides my sweat equity and the small fortune I had to put in my swear jar getting everything unbolted, hubs off, etc!
Anyways, just in case anyone runs into this problem, now ya know. I couldn’t find much info on it other than that us 4th Gen folks were screwed if it was a passenger side issue, so figured I’d at least give it a whirl.


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[Wild one]

You fell in love with the 3 top bolts that are loctited in,and I think long enough to jack the tires off the ground,throw long tube headers in the mix and you'll really curse those 3 bolts,lol
Great write-up and thank-you for the info that the passenger side stub shaft can be removed and replaced.

 

[nursenick06]

Oh yeah already put longtubes on back in October. Once they were busted loose from the Loctite, it was a tiny turn, flip the wrench to angle the other way for another tiny turn, and repeat a few hundred times. Plus with it up on jack stands, I couldn’t sit but halfway up, but couldn’t reach if I was laying flat. I probably have a good-looking sixpack under my beer belly from holding that halfway up position for so long.


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[Wild one]

LOL I can relate,i've had my front diff in and out a couple times . Ran a tap through the threads and wire wheeled the bolts clean so I can break them loose and then spin them out by finger,lol.

 

[nursenick06]

I didn’t run a die on them, but I did soak them in PB Blaster and wire wheel them until they were clean. Definitely made spinning them with my fingertips a lot easier. It took way less time to assemble everything than it did to take it all apart. I had to drop the power steering to get to the last 3 mounting bolts, and those 2 bolts were in there pretty good. I grabbed the frame and pushed a 24” breaker bar with my feet to get them loose. I thought most of these bolts were pretty stiff considering my truck is only 5 years old.
It’s driving like a dream now BTW. I didn’t realize how much noise the front end was making until I fixed it because I can hear my tire tread on the road now!


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[Filippo Bacarella]

Let me ask you a question. Does that metal plate on the end where the intermediate shaft meets the cv axle, does it make some noise when you spin it by hand ?

 

[RamOutdoorsman12]

Let me ask you a question. Does that metal plate on the end where the intermediate shaft meets the cv axle, does it make some noise when you spin it by hand ?

I know this thread is older but it would be amazing if someone could answer this. I pulled the pass. Side CV off today and it needed a few whacks with a 4lb hammer to come off. Behind the metal plate/ seal when... I spin it by hand I can hear something that sounds like ringing noise behind the plate. Almost sounds like a ball bearing spinning around in there. Does anyone know what that could be . Are there any bearings right behind that plate? I'm concerned that I damaged something internally when hitting the CV with the hammer. I'm debating removing the housing to make sure nothing is damaged but dont want to if it's not needed.

Thanks

 

[bj8618]

im reviving this post because im wondering the same thing. i have a noise coming from the passenger side front differential and saw a small mount of oil there. im replacing the cv axle because i heard a noise when turning and had alot of rotational play at the shaft but the shaft does not move so im pretty sure its ok. if anybody has any info on this or how to replace the seal if there is any i would really appreciate it . i have my powertrain warrenty for another 9 thousand miles and honestly dont know if its covered and rather not pay 100 bucks for them to tell me its not covered and give me a 600$ bill to fix it if its repairable at all. thanks

 

[bj8618]

im having the same issue as well. i noticed a small amount of oil at the passenger side differential right where the shaft enters the differential on the passenger side at the plate. i dont know if i should just try a type of differential sealer for now or if i can actually buy the seal for there but i have no idea how to access it or even change the oil unless its the same proccess as the rear differential for changing the oil. i have 9000 miles left on my powertrain and dont know if its covered or if its something i need to do myself. this all started from me hearing a noise when i was turning and noticed i had alot of rotational movement at the shaft on my cv axle so i was just going to replace that myself because i know thats not covered. any help would be appreciated thank you

 

[bj8618]

sorry thought i lost my original post

 

[Erikk]

I need to replace my passenger side axle u-joint on my 2014 2500. On the pre 13 trucks the axle just slid out, but from what I’m seeing here the axle disconnect has to be taken apart to get the axle out to replace the u-joint. Is that correct? I can’t find anything on the 2013+ trucks front u-joint replacement. Thanks!!

 

[mike holeton]

Here’s an update to an issue I’ve been trying to figure out. After doing some digging, I found that the passenger side stub shaft (and of course the CV joint splines too) was almost completely stripped and that end of the CV joint was flopping around on the stub shaft. It wasn’t even close to trying to grab and wouldn’t stay seated all the way on the shaft because there was nothing left to grip. Hence the clunking noise and vibrations felt in the steering for awhile.

The problem is that you can’t buy a passenger side shaft for 2012 and up front differentials (don’t be fooled by CarID, who offer a driver and passenger side, which are exactly the same item from them and definitely NOT the correct part for the passenger side.
I definitely did not want to sink money into a brand new differential, so I purchased a used front diff from a wrecked 2014 with about 22k on it for about $370. The mounting ear was broken off from the passenger side, so I planned on either cutting it off mine and welding up on the new one, or digging into mine to see how the passenger side goes together and potentially just using my passenger housing on the newer diff with the newer diff passenger side parts. I opted for the latter after I took my passenger side off and saw how ridiculously simple it is. Unlike the driver side stub shaft, which you can just pull out with a few taps of a rubber mallet to help, the passenger side is retained in the housing with an internal snap ring that rides against a bearing mounted on the shaft. To get it out, you have to remove the passenger side housing and 4x4 locker to get it out. Here’s what it looks like apart:

The hardest part was getting that heavy duty snap ring out, which was even harder to get back in. Your standard snap ring pliers won’t work, so I ground the tips of a set of long 45 degree double-jointed Vice Grip pliers to fit the holes and they worked fine for that.
I got it back together, put new black RTV sealant on, and reattached to the pumpkin. After a 24hr cure, I refilled the diff and got my truck put back together. I also replaced the driver side stub shaft (it was removed and didn’t come with the new diff), and hubs and intermediate shafts on both sides (Timken hubs and ShurTrac shafts). No more noise and vibration, and I actually have 4x4 again!
Now I’m wondering why the hell we can’t buy passenger side stub shafts from the dealer (or elsewhere for that matter)? I get it that it’s not as simple as the driver side, but it’s not a “non-serviceable” part as FCA likes to claim it is! I actually could have avoided pulling my entire diff out - a PITA in itself - and just drained and pulled the passenger housing off and kept my diff in place instead. Of course now I’ve got a low-mileage diff for a fraction of what a new one would have cost, and no labor cost besides my sweat equity and the small fortune I had to put in my swear jar getting everything unbolted, hubs off, etc!
Anyways, just in case anyone runs into this problem, now ya know. I couldn’t find much info on it other than that us 4th Gen folks were screwed if it was a passenger side issue, so figured I’d at least give it a whirl.


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[mike holeton]

Thank you for posting this information. My 2016 1500 had that same failure Of the shaft . I took a similar route except, I bowed The right side shaft And housing off a different gear ratio (differential)Carrier. I have a 3.55 gear and my new one came off a 3.21 I could not find my ratio local . On a hunch I wondered if all of those parts should be the same. I got lucky and found mine in excellent condition for $200. The guy had a surplus of the 3.21 ratio so I got a deal.TURNS OUT ALL THOSE HOUSINGS AND SHAFTS ARE THE SAME. I left the carrier installed in the truck just like you said could be done and just swapped the assembly. All you have to do is remove the 2 mounting bolts from the housing,remove the shift actuator plug, remove the 4 housing bolts(12mm) with a very long extension and wiggle it off. In some cases you might need to pry it loose with a screwdriver. It came apart and went back together in about four hours taking my time.