The cost of going fast? (397 build price list)

[Redtruck-VA]

Red changes year to year. The 11.66 @ 118mph 60' 1.77. 2800 converter, 4:10 gear, 30x10 slick, 46re w/manual valve body. Red now has 9.5 billet converter, 3:92 gear, 4" aluminum driveshaft, truckarm w/ coilovers. 31x12 slicks.

 

[VelocityC6Z]

Great build.

What transmission? And what's your gear ratio?

How's it run? Pretty street friendly? What's the cam specs?

You can certainly run some tall tires for traction, some skinny's up front.

 

[Josh22855]

3.21 gears, 8 speeds trans and stock!,2800 stall, 221/238 cam, 114lsa. the tires i currently have now for the track are 28" tall MT on a 17" wheel. Street friendly for sure and around 20mpg on highway. About to order the Inez Cut kit relocation brackets to get the right control arm angle.....hopefully this is the last thing ill have to do prior to a pass at the track.

 

[VelocityC6Z]

Nice, lots of room for more gains there.

I haven't looked too far into how much power our 8 speeds can handle stock, and haven't had mine tuned yet to see how quick they can shift... I imagine in a couple years I'll start modding the motor so I'm purely living vicariously through your build lol...


Some people argue that there should be a little more duration on cams for forced induction, the lsa is right where it's still enjoyable to drive and still in the good window for a pd supercharger. I think for a daily driver, you're right where I would like to be on the cam lol... I would really like to hear some idle videos and see how it drives! That's great!

The vette is 245/260 630/630 with 114 lsa, tuned just right, with porting and 13 compression. Exhaust scavenging is important, but I think the tuner got the cam just right so it's not recycling garbage gases back in. It's just so smooth.

I'll also be running 17" wheels with 28" tall MT's on my vette. Those will hook all day with our power levels.

This is an awesome truck build! If you break into the 10's, I may be copying a lot of your work lol

 

[Josh22855]

She will see 10's, no matter what else has to be done, lol. I went with a 9.5 to 1 CR on the stroker kit, being I am running pump gas. However I have also heard that it would have been better to go with a higher compression ratio and run less boost, not sure which of the 2 is the correct route but I think I'll be ok.

Little off subject but had anyone experienced a much lower AFR reading on wideband compared to the AFR on the dynojet? I have used a dyno 2x in my life and in both cases the afr that was linked to the dyno machine would always read a higher (leaner) value than my AEM wideband gauge.

 

[Wild one]

She will see 10's, no matter what else has to be done, lol. I went with a 9.5 to 1 CR on the stroker kit, being I am running pump gas. However I have also heard that it would have been better to go with a higher compression ratio and run less boost, not sure which of the 2 is the correct route but I think I'll be ok.

Little off subject but had anyone experienced a much lower AFR reading on wideband compared to the AFR on the dynojet? I have used a dyno 2x in my life and in both cases the afr that was linked to the dyno machine would always read a higher (leaner) value than my AEM wideband gauge.

Lower compression and more boost gives you a better cylinder fill,which makes more power over the higher compression/lower boost combo,but you want a good intercooler with the lower compression/higher boost combo,as it creates more heat in the intake charge. The idea behind higher compression and lower boost is the engine starts easier and if you blow a belt out in the boondocks,it's easier to start and drive home. I came up through the days of 6-71 blowers with ridiculously low compression ratio's,like 7:1 and 10+% overdrives on the blower ,if you blew the belt on the 6-71,it was a slow drive home,and you hoped you didn't hit many redlights,especially at the bottom of a hill,lol