Trying to change fuel pump and can’t remove metal locking plate and fuel line

[StuartBlack]

I don’t think mine was ever changed in it’s life, it’s at 305,000km
Fuel pump went out on me at the start of the month and it’s finally getting nice weather so I’m trying to change it
I got the box removed as I couldn’t drop the tank on my driveway
I got the harness off fine but the fuel line isn’t coming off, any tips for that one? Looks like you just press it down and pull but it’s not working
The metal plate you knock counter clockwise to remove isn’t moving a bit either, it’s rusted all to hell

 

[LeesEvoX]

I don’t think mine was ever changed in it’s life, it’s at 305,000km
Fuel pump went out on me at the start of the month and it’s finally getting nice weather so I’m trying to change it
I got the box removed as I couldn’t drop the tank on my driveway
I got the harness off fine but the fuel line isn’t coming off, any tips for that one? Looks like you just press it down and pull but it’s not working
The metal plate you knock counter clockwise to remove isn’t moving a bit either, it’s rusted all to hell

I went through this on a truck with 175,000 miles. The fuel lines are a ***** to get off. But as you said, there is a small part that pushes in, while you pull the connector off. Soak the thing in PB blaster/ WD40 and leave it for a while.

Same thing with the metal ring that holds the pump in place. Soak it for a bit with PB blaster, then just get out your trusty hammer, and a large chisel. or something that has a nice flat edge to sit against that ring.

If the ring is as rusted as you make it sound, then you will probably need a new one also.

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

You need to get a fuel line disconnect tool, Made by
www.arestool.com do a search for fuel line disconnect.

 

[LeesEvoX]

You need to get a fuel line disconnect tool, Made by
www.arestool.com do a search for fuel line disconnect.

I mean.. you dont NEED it, but I'm sure it would help lol.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[kevkev]

Use brass for the ring. You dont want any sparks.

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

I mean.. you dont NEED it, but I'm sure it would help lol.

Hay Man Just trying to help, how else are you going to get at those ears that are holding the fitting together?

 

[StuartBlack]

You need to get a fuel line disconnect tool, Made by
www.arestool.com do a search for fuel line disconnect.

Been trying to find one, at my local Napa they have one but for fords and GM and Mazda. Not dodge. Not sure if it’s that much of a difference but didn’t look like it would work.
They were the scissor type looking ones

 

[GTyankee]

It is best to remove the drivers side rear tire for better access

this video may show a Gen 3 tank removal
at the 6 minute 40 second point, he removes the fuel line connection

I hope this is the same as your vehicle

 

[LeesEvoX]

Hay Man Just trying to help, how else are you going to get at those ears that are holding the fitting together?

I know you are bud. all's im sayin is you dont NEED one.

I got all of my fittings off with just the massive strength of my fingers hahah. and they were crusty as all hell. lol.

 

[StuartBlack]

It is best to remove the drivers side rear tire for better access

this video may show a Gen 3 tank removal
at the 6 minute 40 second point, he removes the fuel line connection

I hope this is the same as your vehicle

That’s the video I was following along to. Other than actually removing the tank itself.
I removed the bed to get to the fuel pump
My just doesn’t come off easy. I feel like there’s dirt and crap underneath the “button”

 

[StuartBlack]

I went through this on a truck with 175,000 miles. The fuel lines are a ***** to get off. But as you said, there is a small part that pushes in, while you pull the connector off. Soak the thing in PB blaster/ WD40 and leave it for a while.

Same thing with the metal ring that holds the pump in place. Soak it for a bit with PB blaster, then just get out your trusty hammer, and a large chisel. or something that has a nice flat edge to sit against that ring.

If the ring is as rusted as you make it sound, then you will probably need a new one also.

Mine is at 190,000 miles converted. Hope I can find the ring anywhere, if I do need to replace it. No one carries parts for my truck in my province, all generally have to order them from the bigger ones

 

[GTyankee]

Do you have any PB Blaster or Kroil lubricants

don't use WD-40, WD stands for Water Displacement, it is not truly a lubricant

PB Blaster is good, but Kroil is better it is what is used mostly on firearms

 

[LeesEvoX]

Mine is at 190,000 miles converted. Hope I can find the ring anywhere, if I do need to replace it. No one carries parts for my truck in my province, all generally have to order them from the bigger ones

YIKES!

Better hope you can get the original one off (It will come off with some persuasion). From there i would just try and "restore" the original one. as long as the rust hasnt eaten through the thing completely.

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

PB Blaster is good you have to let it soak in for a while.

 

[GTyankee]

If you end up needing a new one, look at this website, they don't cost much

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...,1432336,fuel+&+air,fuel+tank+lock+ring,10325

 

[StuartBlack]

Do you have any PB Blaster or Kroil lubricants

don't use WD-40, WD stands for Water Displacement, it is not truly a lubricant

PB Blaster is good, but Kroil is better it is what is used mostly on firearms

I have Krown KL 73 rust inhibitor, let’s hope that works

 

[StuartBlack]

YIKES!

Better hope you can get the original one off (It will come off with some persuasion). From there i would just try and "restore" the original one. as long as the rust hasnt eaten through the thing completely.

Looks close to being more rust than metal at this point