The guy was being sarcastic. If you remove a bulb (I.E. a brake light or turn signal light) it notifies you in the message center that the truck is having an issue of one kind or another. Lol
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I’m curious. I don’t have the camera on the front but I do have the tailgate camera and I installed the mopar LED 3rd brake light that comes with a camera. I would love to make it operational. Maybe your question and my issue can be solved by the same solution.
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I’ve always gone by “your system is only as strong as the weakest link”. By not upgrading the wiring you’re relying heavily on the stock wires to handle this added power when that’s not what they were built for. It’s time consuming but in the long run you’ll be glad you just ran new speaker...
What about 6.5 components in the front doors and rather than running the external tweeter that comes with it, just run that wire to the 3.5 2 ways in the dash. Wouldn’t that eliminate the bass in the dash since that wire is post crossover?
I’m just spit balling ideas here.
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So now I guess I’m curious as to what load of resistor I would need an order for the truck to read correctly. Our resistor is one of those things that you can constantly swap in and out until you get a good combination?
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With that being said I won’t setup the camera then. Not really needing it. I was mainly buying it for the led light for the bed. So the cheapest way to reflash the truck would be to just go to the dealer right? I really appreciate all the info. Now I know just what I’m getting into.
I have an 18 without the 3rd brake lift camera and just ordered this exact one on eBay. The dealer told me that the camera won’t work but the light would. I was under the impression that wire looms come with all the hookups and accessories are normally just added on at the factory. This would...
That particular design that the op commented on looks a lot like the all black edition rams. It might be on other rams but I’ve seen these stock looking led grid lights on them. Probably a great option rather than going with the oem pair of you aren’t looking to pay the oem price tag.
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I totally get what you’re saying but with so many companies flooding the market with aftermarket options it’s sometimes hard to tell what’s good quality and what is junk.
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I apologize. After looking at the setup I realized the radiator is closer to the intake than what I thought. I thought that by removing that shroud the intake would just suck up all the hot air that has passed through the radiator. My mistake.
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