2012 Ram , No Crank , No Start , FOBs dead , Wont start. TIPM dead ! ... The Electrical Gremlins have begun !

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DILLIGAF

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I leave my truck outside for 1 day, And the ****** decides to throw a fit at me...lol...

All 4 Fobs wouldn't work, Had to use the key to get in.
Tried to crank the ***** over an nuthin' not even a chime... lol...

Its done this to me at -50 last week in town, I thought it was a bad batterie in my FOB since after a few tries it work so I didnt think much of it. After that even if my TPMS is all turned off with Alfa ODB and pressure set to 0, I was getting an TPMS error message. Also blew that off because of the super cold weather.

I Remeber someone on here saying that the 2012 was located in the front fender well. Also known as the TPMS HUB. Just want to confirm before I order a 400$ part... FML.... That same guy also had TPmS issues and dead fob. Just cant find the thread.

56029401AH​

 
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GTyankee

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this may cover it


If you have ALFAOBD, change tire pressure 2013 - 18

 
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DILLIGAF

DILLIGAF

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Mine is now by the battery, I relocated it a few years ago to avoid having it **** the bed because of dirt and mud off-roading. Now that proves it was a waste of time. lol..
 
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DILLIGAF

DILLIGAF

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Took out the starter relay and she spins over no problem when I jump her.

Is there any way to bypass the security system on this ***** ?

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Jeepwalker

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Ok, sounds like your battery is 'good'. Can you hear the fuel pump operate? Did you try swapping another (same) relay in there?

It might be your truck's "WIN module". That's the module behind where you put your key. Do a youtube search for Win Module. There's a bunch of videos. It also affects other Chryslers which use them. Other cars use key modules which give fits (welcome to *modern electronics*!! :banghead: ) It's kind of a DIY to inspect and fix, if you don't mind digging into things. It could be cold solder joints which don't make contact when they shrink in the cold temps.

Just a thought.
 
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DILLIGAF

DILLIGAF

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I took my WIN module appart this summer already to fix it, I would need to cycle the key a bunch to get it to start... lol... :anitoof: Wouldn't surprise me if it **** the bed again...

I have a used module on the way already, Did some testing today with the old module and I get power to the board pins. but without the schematic of the circuit board I dont know what the testing values are for it. Dont see anything burned out or loose connections.

I think its also time to buy the TIPM bypass as im sure that **** will be next. Might as well get a head of the curve on that one... lol...
 
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DILLIGAF

DILLIGAF

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Was able to get the TIPM out and cleaned, didn't see any issues. A bit of mud on the board in a couple spots . LoL.

So started checking wireing, was getting power to the TIPM Win module fuse but nothing at the WIN Module itself.

The Old Dball I put in back in 2012 was the issue. Something must be fried inside. Once all removed everything works again.

Some power surge might of fried my TPMS module and Remote start module or Might of been just plain bad ******* luck, with all the plugging and unplugging of the battery during the 8 speed swap.

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RamDiver

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Cleaning the TIPM was a bad idea ! Holy **** my fuel pump is cutting out now when WOT. and missing when leaving the driveway. :dogpile::favorites37:

Good thing the Exchange was on sale https://circuitboardmedics.com/2011-2012-dodge-ram-tipm-exchange/

I believe the TIPM is a horrible design. Not only is it loaded with too many points of failure, but just touching it could create more grief than the fault you're chasing in the first place.

I would never be in any hurry to touch anything in there until I've exhausted verifying all the peripheral wiring but unfortunately, sometimes it's a necessary evil.

Do you have the option of unplugging all the associated connectors before separating each layer?
That might reduce some of the risk of damaging the interface connection points.

.
 
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DILLIGAF

DILLIGAF

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New TIPM is in, Fixed my fuel issue but not the rest.. hahahahaha
 
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