TheMaddog
Senior Member
Some usefull info for your trouble shooting pleasure.
Problem #1:
Only one light works, although both lights are installed exactly the same.
Solution:
Inspection Procedure: Whenever there is an issue, start here.
-Check the car battery terminals. Are they tight, loose, lots of corrosion?
-Check all connections between the bulb, ballast, factory headlight plug(s), finally all power / ground wires.
-Check your vehicles fuses as well as any fuses on your relay harness (tisk tisk if you aren't using one).
-Check that your battery / charging system are in good condition & holding a charge.
-If your issue is with just one side, swap over the bulb or ballast from the working side. This will determine if it's a part or the wiring that's bad. If it works then it's a parts issue, if it doesn't then it's a wiring issue.
Problem #2:
One or both of the HID bulbs keep flickering but won't turn on while making a clicking noise.
Solution:
Follow the Inspection prooceedure (See Problem #1). Wait more than 5 minutes which will reset the ballast's "Safety Stages Chip" (See Problem #4) then reconnect or reinstall every connector. Now go through & re-connect all the wires. Often it's an issue with a loose power or ground wire thus not allowing the ballast to fired up.
If you've tried all the above & are still having issues: The Newer Mopar's as well as most newer cars (2006 & up) have what is called a "Canbus" system. To make a long story short, your lighting is wired into the PCM/ ECU to make it smart (for use with DRL's, bulb out warnings, delayed shutoff, etc...). Unfortunately it has made upgrading your lighting somewhat more difficult as well. You will need at least a relay wiring harness for HID's to ensure it's getting a solid 12+ volts. After that you may also need what is refereed to as a Bulb Out Warning (BOW) Cancellor. Between these two items, I'd say 80%+ of your HID issues will be resolved. Some may need to go with a custom wiring harness set-up with a special resistor wired in (PM for more details).
Problem #3:
When I turn on my HID's both sides go out.
Solution:
It means the fuses are blown. Please check your fuses box according to your vehicle's user manual and replace any blown fuses. If you're using a relay harness (which is recommended to protect your stock wiring) then check the fuses on the harness.
Problem #4:
My HID's will shut down itself sometimes.
Solution:
Inside of the HID ballast, there is a micro chip which is used to detect whether there is any potential problem. Any potential problems such as sudden high impulse or shortage of power input from battery or extremely high heat will trigger the self-protect and shut the ballast off temporarily. It takes about 3 mins for the micro chip to reset itself and the ballast will be working again. Once this happens, please turn off the HID and wait about 3 to 5 mins. When you get home go through the wiring check proceedure. You may need to mount the ballast in a different location away from heat, elements, or extreme vibration to reduce the re-occurance.
Problem #5:
The ballasts make electric noise when first turn on.
Solution:
This is very normal to hear a buzzing sound from the ballasts as they are receiving power from the battery upon start up. Once the power has stabilized they will get quieter.
Problem #6:
The HID bulbs changes color when first turn on.
Solution:
This is totally normal & related to Problem #5. Since the power has not been stabilized yet, the bulbs will might have different colors or even flicker a little bit. However, as soon as the power is stabilized by the ballast, the bulbs should become normal.
Problem #7:
HID will only work when the high beam is turn on.
Solution:
This situation mostly happens with 9007 or H13 Bi-Xenon kits because it has three pong plug rather than just ""+"" and ""-"". Make sure you have plugged those three wires correctly to their positions. Having a multimeter handy can help you determine which is which. You may have to do some research on positively & negatively switched systems as well as your particular application. A 9007 plug such as the Dodge Neon is negatively switched. When looking at the back (where the wires go in), there's a black wire (Ground) going to the middle terminal, Blue wire (Lo Beam) on the Left & a Red wire (Hi Beam) on the right). Make sure you don't have the Lo & Hi beam wires switched.
Problem #8:
The colors or intensity of the two bulbs are different.
Solution:
1. If you're looking directly into the headlights from the front of the car & seeing this difference, the headlight housing aim may not be adjusted equally. This can cause them to seem different. Keep in mind that there may not be anything wrong as isn't easy to see both sides equally from distances closer than 50+ ft.
2. When looking at a wall from inside or behind the car & seeing seeing a difference, make sure the headlight lenses are clean, in good condition, & not discolored. Check the bulbs part numbers to ensure you bought or were shipped the same bulb types/ colors.
3). If you relpaced just one bulb- not both at the same time then they can be different. Bulbs will "shift" in color very slowly as the hours of use increase. It's best to replace both together to prevent this issue.
3). For new bulbs, make sure you seated the bulb correctly into the housing. It is also common for new bulbs colors to be slightly different for first couple hours of burning. The color will even out as time goes on.
Problem #9
In many cases, especially for those cars that have Auto ""ON"" or Daytime Running Lights; one or both lights cannot ignite initially, bulb turns off just after starting the car, or even sometimes the bulb just turns off when driving."
Solution:
You must disable the Daytime Running Lights or Auto Switch ON function before the HID installation. Due to the steady 12v or more of battery voltage required before the initial ignite of each HID System; you must eliminate un-needed voltage draw on the car's battery at HID's start time. Daytime Running Lights operate on 7v or less of power output, and auto switch on headlight always turn on seconds right before the car to start the ignition to charge the battery. Therefore, in both situations, the battery is drawing much less power than 12v to initially ignite the HID headlight. Please perform the following:
1. If you have Daytime Running Lights please follow your car's service manual; have a re-flash done at the dealer, disconnect the fuse or wiring of Daytime Running lights only.
2. If you have Auto Switch On Headlights, please switch the function to Manual Switch On headlights. To avoid further damages, always remember to start your engine before turn on the HID system.
found this on another forum, just thought i'd share with the RF
Problem #1:
Only one light works, although both lights are installed exactly the same.
Solution:
Inspection Procedure: Whenever there is an issue, start here.
-Check the car battery terminals. Are they tight, loose, lots of corrosion?
-Check all connections between the bulb, ballast, factory headlight plug(s), finally all power / ground wires.
-Check your vehicles fuses as well as any fuses on your relay harness (tisk tisk if you aren't using one).
-Check that your battery / charging system are in good condition & holding a charge.
-If your issue is with just one side, swap over the bulb or ballast from the working side. This will determine if it's a part or the wiring that's bad. If it works then it's a parts issue, if it doesn't then it's a wiring issue.
Problem #2:
One or both of the HID bulbs keep flickering but won't turn on while making a clicking noise.
Solution:
Follow the Inspection prooceedure (See Problem #1). Wait more than 5 minutes which will reset the ballast's "Safety Stages Chip" (See Problem #4) then reconnect or reinstall every connector. Now go through & re-connect all the wires. Often it's an issue with a loose power or ground wire thus not allowing the ballast to fired up.
If you've tried all the above & are still having issues: The Newer Mopar's as well as most newer cars (2006 & up) have what is called a "Canbus" system. To make a long story short, your lighting is wired into the PCM/ ECU to make it smart (for use with DRL's, bulb out warnings, delayed shutoff, etc...). Unfortunately it has made upgrading your lighting somewhat more difficult as well. You will need at least a relay wiring harness for HID's to ensure it's getting a solid 12+ volts. After that you may also need what is refereed to as a Bulb Out Warning (BOW) Cancellor. Between these two items, I'd say 80%+ of your HID issues will be resolved. Some may need to go with a custom wiring harness set-up with a special resistor wired in (PM for more details).
Problem #3:
When I turn on my HID's both sides go out.
Solution:
It means the fuses are blown. Please check your fuses box according to your vehicle's user manual and replace any blown fuses. If you're using a relay harness (which is recommended to protect your stock wiring) then check the fuses on the harness.
Problem #4:
My HID's will shut down itself sometimes.
Solution:
Inside of the HID ballast, there is a micro chip which is used to detect whether there is any potential problem. Any potential problems such as sudden high impulse or shortage of power input from battery or extremely high heat will trigger the self-protect and shut the ballast off temporarily. It takes about 3 mins for the micro chip to reset itself and the ballast will be working again. Once this happens, please turn off the HID and wait about 3 to 5 mins. When you get home go through the wiring check proceedure. You may need to mount the ballast in a different location away from heat, elements, or extreme vibration to reduce the re-occurance.
Problem #5:
The ballasts make electric noise when first turn on.
Solution:
This is very normal to hear a buzzing sound from the ballasts as they are receiving power from the battery upon start up. Once the power has stabilized they will get quieter.
Problem #6:
The HID bulbs changes color when first turn on.
Solution:
This is totally normal & related to Problem #5. Since the power has not been stabilized yet, the bulbs will might have different colors or even flicker a little bit. However, as soon as the power is stabilized by the ballast, the bulbs should become normal.
Problem #7:
HID will only work when the high beam is turn on.
Solution:
This situation mostly happens with 9007 or H13 Bi-Xenon kits because it has three pong plug rather than just ""+"" and ""-"". Make sure you have plugged those three wires correctly to their positions. Having a multimeter handy can help you determine which is which. You may have to do some research on positively & negatively switched systems as well as your particular application. A 9007 plug such as the Dodge Neon is negatively switched. When looking at the back (where the wires go in), there's a black wire (Ground) going to the middle terminal, Blue wire (Lo Beam) on the Left & a Red wire (Hi Beam) on the right). Make sure you don't have the Lo & Hi beam wires switched.
Problem #8:
The colors or intensity of the two bulbs are different.
Solution:
1. If you're looking directly into the headlights from the front of the car & seeing this difference, the headlight housing aim may not be adjusted equally. This can cause them to seem different. Keep in mind that there may not be anything wrong as isn't easy to see both sides equally from distances closer than 50+ ft.
2. When looking at a wall from inside or behind the car & seeing seeing a difference, make sure the headlight lenses are clean, in good condition, & not discolored. Check the bulbs part numbers to ensure you bought or were shipped the same bulb types/ colors.
3). If you relpaced just one bulb- not both at the same time then they can be different. Bulbs will "shift" in color very slowly as the hours of use increase. It's best to replace both together to prevent this issue.
3). For new bulbs, make sure you seated the bulb correctly into the housing. It is also common for new bulbs colors to be slightly different for first couple hours of burning. The color will even out as time goes on.
Problem #9
In many cases, especially for those cars that have Auto ""ON"" or Daytime Running Lights; one or both lights cannot ignite initially, bulb turns off just after starting the car, or even sometimes the bulb just turns off when driving."
Solution:
You must disable the Daytime Running Lights or Auto Switch ON function before the HID installation. Due to the steady 12v or more of battery voltage required before the initial ignite of each HID System; you must eliminate un-needed voltage draw on the car's battery at HID's start time. Daytime Running Lights operate on 7v or less of power output, and auto switch on headlight always turn on seconds right before the car to start the ignition to charge the battery. Therefore, in both situations, the battery is drawing much less power than 12v to initially ignite the HID headlight. Please perform the following:
1. If you have Daytime Running Lights please follow your car's service manual; have a re-flash done at the dealer, disconnect the fuse or wiring of Daytime Running lights only.
2. If you have Auto Switch On Headlights, please switch the function to Manual Switch On headlights. To avoid further damages, always remember to start your engine before turn on the HID system.
found this on another forum, just thought i'd share with the RF
