Nitrous until it blows!

[billiards4me]

Ok... so, hopefully the click-bait title got some knowledgable people in here to help me out.

'14 1500 CC Hemi 8-speed 4x4 Sport, with full bolt ons (long tube headers, dump valve, tstat, CAI, electric fan, Jay Greene tune, 93 octane, street tires on OEM 20's. I don't do drag strip on a normal basis... but I do love to mess around on the street, and surprise everyone who thinks it's just a work truck. I did 1/4 mile a month or 2 ago, and got consistent 13.7's.

So, now I'm looking for more. After seeing the price tag of boost, I decided to dive into the juice. I've never been much of a motor head, and definitely have no experience with NOS. But, heck, why not?

Daily driver, and it is my work truck, so, I don't want to blow it up. I got myself a Nitrous Outlet wet kit, 90mm plate, 15lb bottle, heater, nitrous filter, purge kit, remote opener, and the ProMax progressive controller with LCD screen.

So, to the reason for the thread.... who can help me out with a safe, but still fun, setup for the ProMax? What sort of A/F window should I stay in? How should the power be delivered (all at once, at a certain RPM, progressively, etc)? I've heard the Hemi can handle the 150 no problem... but, again, I want pretty much no chance of screwing anything up. So, is the 150 really actually safe?... or, drop it back to the 125? Or, maybe go with the 150, but have the controller bring it in slower? Or, maybe go 150, but limit it to never hit 100% (therefore doing more like a 125 shot)?

I know I need to get a wideband A/F sensor (doesn't come with the kit), to send its info to the controller, so the controller can monitor/display the AFR. Any recommendations on sensors? Any recommendations on colder plugs and gaps?

The controller will be monitoring bottle pressure, AFR, and fuel pressure... and if any of them fall out of spec, it'll shut the spray. So, with this controller, I feel like I'm pretty safe... but still... all stock internals, so, I don't want the engine to fall apart either.

On a technical note... I won't have any gauges out in the cab. I want to be super low key, and OEM looking inside the cab. So, that's one main reason why I've gone with the controller... so, it'll do the monitoring of the gauges for me, and shut things down if they go out of whack. Now, my next thing to accomplish, is trying to minimize/eliminate/hide the buttons/switches for arm/purge/remote open. I'd LOVE it if someone had a bluetooth controlled app based setup. That would be ideal!

Also, I'm going to need to find a home for this 15lb bottle. I don't want it in the cab, and I'd prefer not to have it in the bed (still is a work truck). I've thought about trying to fit it in my RamBox's... but not sure it'll fit in there. So, I've been looking under the body. There are definitely a couple of locations under the cab/bed that I believe it'll fit. Just got to make sure I can maybe build a metal box/sleeve to protect it inside of. Not sure there's any reason I couldn't have it live under there... especially if it's semi-close to the muffler... as, maybe that'll help it stay in the right temp range. lol. I know it won't be SUPER convenient to climb under the truck to swap the tank out when it's empty... but, with the air suspension raised up, and knowing that's just what I've got to deal with... I think it'll be fine. But, please advise if there's any other reason why I shouldn't mount it under the truck.

I think those are all the questions I've got so far at this point. Also, I'm in the south-west Florida area... if anyone knows of any good trusted experienced dyno-tuners that would be super knowledgeable in all of this area (Hemi with nitrous)... PLEASE let me know! I'm willing to travel pretty far, if I know there's someone who knows what they're doing, and can help me to dial this in properly.

Thanks guys!!

 

[Wild one]

If you're gonna mount the bottle under the truck,add in some sort of "T" fitting with a short piece of braided -4 line and either a plug/cap or valve on the end,that runs up into the box or somewhere fairly easy to get access to,and buy yourself another bottle. Use the spare bottle to fill the one under the box off the extra line.The way to transfer from one bottle to another with no pump is to warm up the bottle you're using as your transfer bottle to about 100/110F that should give you a pressure in the range of 1200/1300psi,hook that bottle up to the spare line and just open both bottle valves,you'll hear the nitrous transferring. You probably won't get a 100% fill on the bottle under the box unless it's a real cold day,but it'll keep the bottle fairly full.Saves ripping the bottle out from under the box everytime you need it filled.

 

[billiards4me]

Interesting idea! Thank you!

 

[Wild one]

Interesting idea! Thank you!

My bottle is a bit of a bear to remove,so I use the above method to keep it full. I usually keep a couple full spare bottles on hand,if you watch your local craigslist or kijjii etc., you can usually find someone selling a nitrous bottle,some are even full,lol.

 

[billiards4me]

Good call! Yes, I do plan on having at least 1 spare bottle.

 

[billiards4me]

Ok guys! Just wanted to have a follow up from this post, and let you know where I'm at, and the remaining questions I've still got.

I was able to get the 50 shot in, dialed it in & tested systems, and worked fine. Not too terribly noticeable. So, I then bumped up to 100 shot. Could certainly feel the hit, not quite Fast & Furious style though. lol. I was having issues with keeping my AFR in spec, so I was working on dialing that in, but my local shop ran out of nitrous... and so I've been dry for a number of months now. BUT, both 15lb tanks are getting filled today at a different shop, and I'll be sticking 125 shot in, and start working on dialing that in.

AFR window: I've been instructed by Jay Greene, that we want to try to stay around 11.5... so I've set my window for 10.5-12.5.

Max safe shot size: Still didn't really get any feedback on this one.... I know there's not much difference between 125 and 150... and I've read in places that 150 is no big deal for the Hemi... but, I just wanted to go that extra mile, and have that 25 of cushion. But I'd still love some good experienced feedback, if I should just go to the 150. Any thoughts on this guys??

Wideband sensors: I ended up going with (2) of the APSX D2 Digital Wideband sensors, and they seem to be working just fine with the ProMax.

Bottle placement: So... I made it work. And, since we all love pictures, I'll throw some in of the install below.

 

[billiards4me]

 

[billiards4me]

Made a custom bracket to fit in the RamBox, and cut a hole to allow it to fit better. Buttons (left to right): remote electronic exhaust cutout (up opens, down closes), arm (red light for on), remote bottle opener (up opens, down closes), heater (yellow light for on), purge (just cool blue ring around it).
I'll try to upload a short video of the purging....
https://www.dropbox.com/s/27olq8js7vsgvpz/IMG_0560.mov?dl=0

 

[Wild one]

Made a custom bracket to fit in the RamBox, and cut a hole to allow it to fit better. Buttons (left to right): remote electronic exhaust cutout (up opens, down closes), arm (red light for on), remote bottle opener (up opens, down closes), heater (yellow light for on), purge (just cool blue ring around it).
I'll try to upload a short video of the purging....
https://www.dropbox.com/s/27olq8js7vsgvpz/IMG_0560.mov?dl=0

Did you see this for a switch pod set-up.

https://www.aev-conversions.com/product/switch-pod-ram-trucks/

 

[billiards4me]

I have not! That's pretty slick! But... I like my low-profile/out-of-sight setup.

 

[Wild one]

I have not! That's pretty slick! But... I like my low-profile/out-of-sight setup.

Your set-up is nice,i like it.I mounted my switches inside the hole in the console,but I think your set-up is better as the switches are a little more hidden.I also mounted my master switch that kills the nitrous arming switch out of sight ,so if the truck has somebody else driving it,they can flip the console switches on,but unless they find and turn on the hidden switch,it's not gonna arm the system.

 

[billiards4me]

Pictures??

 

[Boosted Motorsports]

Clean setup nice work!!!

 

[billiards4me]

Thank you Boosted! Oh hey!... I was just watching you on YT. Lol.

 

[Syke001]

So what’s the max shot on a stock internals Hemi?

 

[Wild one]

So what’s the max shot on a stock internals Hemi?

I had over 700 nitrous passes and 50,000 miles of spirited street driving ,on my truck when i sold it,but i wasn't stupid i kept the shot to a 75 shot,and i also run seperate stand alone fuel cells dedicated to the nitrous on my nitrous installs.
How long do you want it to last,it'll make 1 pass on a 250 shot,
If you want it to last several years don't go anymore then a 100 shot,if all you want out of it is a few months hit it with 150,that's assuming you're gonna spray it several times on the week-end racing it.
Man you gotta be the most closed mouth dude out there,don't be scared to give us more info on your truck and you're intended usage,i'm starting to think you've got some broken fingers when it comes to typing.
Front box is the fuel cell,rear box is the relocated battery.
You do have a A/Fr gauge i hope,a fuel pressure and nitrous pressure gauge don't hurt,and wire it up with a fuel pressure safety switch,so if it looses fuel pressure the nitrous shuts off.
Leave the purging for the TV guys,it doesn't add squat to your 1/4 mile times on anything under a 250 shot,and creates an instant lean condition,as the nitrous is usually 950+ psi,and your fuel pressure is 58 psi,so which one do you think hits the cylinder first if you have pure nitrous at the solenoid,plus it wastes expensive nitrous