Now buying 2018 RAM 2500 6.4L Hemi 81k with 4:10 gears

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kmbarreiros

kmbarreiros

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That is what I thought, your egr is gummed and may have taken out turbo, more to fix it then value of truck if turbo is gone too. To be honest the fact it lasted over 20 years is amazing by itself, my guess lightly used or mostly freeway miles? Get whatever you can for it and play stupid. If you can drive it and have a long run like 100 miles or better, just maybe an additive with create enough flow to get rid of that EGR light, then if that helps the turbo cool, if not call the junkyard.
When I first got it 2.5 years ago that was what my father in law told me to do to get it inspected I drove it bunch cleared it drove a bunch and luckily the CEL stayed off long enough. But almost immediately after the inspection all the codes came back. And supposedly my father in law did a ton of work to it (basically bullet proofing it) but I have absolutely ZERO paperwork to prove it and I have no idea what to check for to see if it was actually done. I am technically the 3rd owner it came from another family member out in Cali (hauled horse's) and then my father in law got it and brought to New England. It really should have stayed out in Cali. I am grateful that we got it, it came as a package with there RV. But if it had been completely up to me I would have just taken the RV and got my own truck.
 
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kmbarreiros

kmbarreiros

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Well I kind of did. Tomorrow if that 2019 is still there we are going to take another look at it and take it for drive.
All others that are available are either way out of my price range or just to far away.
 

White six four

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Do they use salt on the roads in your area? If so getting one from a rust free area is what I'd recommend.

It's not too to much for a dealer to ship a vehicle. Only problem is the test drive part. Looking for a stock truck they should all pretty much ride and drive the same. Main difference being the 6 vs 8 speed. I'd much rather replace worn out suspension parts or any part then deal with rust.
 

Axm900

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I have had a 2014, 2018, 2024, and now a 2025 . I put 150k miles on the 2014 and 2024. No issues. Put 245k miles on the 2018 and only had ABS problems. That one is still going with no problems. Like the other guys mentioned check the maintenance on them. Whatever you get make sure you change oil every 5000 miles and service the transmission
 
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kmbarreiros

kmbarreiros

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I have had a 2014, 2018, 2024, and now a 2025 . I put 150k miles on the 2014 and 2024. No issues. Put 245k miles on the 2018 and only had ABS problems. That one is still going with no problems. Like the other guys mentioned check the maintenance on them. Whatever you get make sure you change oil every 5000 miles and service the transmission
Thank you for that feedback....I am actually going today to take a look at a 2018 that has 81K miles and 4:10 gears. If it drives fine I will be putting a deposit down.

 

Lance1985

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Re: the RAM 2019

Listen for a grinding sound when moving slowly either forward or reverse and turning the wheel 10 or 15 degrees. I just had to replace the Rack and Pinion Assembly on my 2019 RAM for a cost of $ 3600. Yes I am P---ed
 

N0NAMETOGIVE

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I would buy the newest higher mileage, Low idle 2500HD. I drive a 2017 2500 6.4L and 5500 Cummins. The 6.4L/6 Speed has 124k miles reliably, but the 6 speed is annoyingly always trying to save fuel to quickly. The diesel 6 speed I enjoy more, but the 8 speed got it right. I also inherited a 1970 F100 that runs great, but my only interest is learning how to work on old stuff.
 

04fxdwgi

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I would buy the newest higher mileage, Low idle 2500HD. I drive a 2017 2500 6.4L and 5500 Cummins. The 6.4L/6 Speed has 124k miles reliably, but the 6 speed is annoyingly always trying to save fuel to quickly. The diesel 6 speed I enjoy more, but the 8 speed got it right. I also inherited a 1970 F100 that runs great, but my only interest is learning how to work on old stuff.
LOL. Throw away 1/2 of the special tools you have, all the metric stuff and especially the unicorn 10mm socket, and it will still be easier to work on.
 

Biggfoot44

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I’d keep the diesel for towing. Look for an older Toyota/honda suv for your winter local driving.


Big Question implied right here !

Is your goal to * Replace* the F-350 with a dual purpose heavy tow vehicle Plus snow friendly daily driver ?

Or keep the Paid For F-350 as dedicated tow vehicle , and aquire an Additional mid size SUV ?
 
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kmbarreiros

kmbarreiros

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Big Question implied right here !

Is your goal to * Replace* the F-350 with a dual purpose heavy tow vehicle Plus snow friendly daily driver ?

Or keep the Paid For F-350 as dedicated tow vehicle , and aquire an Additional mid size SUV ?
Yes and no...I have a fleet of vehicles right now. I have my 2014 Outback for commuting to work(best vehicle ever for the snow), my wife drives a 23' Palisade, and my daughter has a Tuscon. I also have a TJ in the garage (currently off the road to save on insurance).

This is really only to replace the F350 for towing and camping outings with the Scouts.
Also something that the wife will enjoy driving. My wife does not like the F350 wont drive and complains when we do drive it. It is just too big, RWD only, always smells of diesel only gets about 10 Mpg when not towing CEL light is on with multiple codes, haven't bother to get it inspected because I know it will fail. I open the hood and the engine setup is just daunting and wouldnt even know where to begin trying to fix it myself.
I do understand that it is a paid for truck...All of our other cars are paid off too, almost no CC debit my solar loan will be paid off very soon. So we are ok taking a small loan for this truck.

I am just not ok buying a 50K truck that will end up just sitting most of the time.
Plus side the one I am looking at does have a plow setup which is something I have always wanted.
 

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