BlackSheepRebel
Senior Member
breaking this out from a related thread since that got long, had more to do with failed attempts at patching the broken boot, and having this better titled and organized may help someone in the future. apologies if this is covered somewhere, searched a bit and couldn't find answers to all my questions so decided to consolidate them here.
first, as a general overview, i know it's third gen but this video seemed solid to me to understand the task at hand (i'm not a mechanic, i just enjoy trying, so i tend to watch a lot of videos before tackling anything):
i managed to find the cv axle in stock at mopar.com. when trying to order the intermediate shaft, even though it shows in stock the order gets cancelled with "none in inventory". here's what i'm looking at:
i understand most replacements do both, but thinking i should be able to re-use mine since it is fairly new. they shouldn't be siezed yet. if it doesn't separate and comes out as one piece, i think i can (gently) clamp the smooth part of the stub shaft and bang on the old cv until it separates. that's my theory. i do worry about the c clips and o ring. has anyone transferred these, or do you recommend always replacing both?
on the install, i've found some remove the whole knuckle and others keep the lower ball joint attached. i'm thinking real mechanics get crap out of their way to make the job easier, but DIYers like myself prefer to avoid taking things apart that aren't strictly necessary. i'll see when i get into it, but any concerns with just pivoting the knuckle out of the way vs fully removing it? maybe there's more concern of separating the new cv shaft while flexing it into place?
when putting it back together, a lot of videos show everyone just tightening everything down fully as they go. some mention the added step of using a lower torque setting initially then fully tightening on the ground. that makes sense where bushings are involved, but i even saw some people doing that for the axle nut. what's the right way to do this?
i have most of the torque specs from doing the level. i confirmed some in various videos but mostly found this useful:
again, i know that mentions 4th gen, but are there major differences for a 5th gen? as part of this i'm going to re-torque everything i touched doing the level so want to be sure.
thanks for any help!
first, as a general overview, i know it's third gen but this video seemed solid to me to understand the task at hand (i'm not a mechanic, i just enjoy trying, so i tend to watch a lot of videos before tackling anything):
How to Replace Front Driver Side Axle 2006-10 Dodge RAM
Buy Now!New CV Axle Shaft from 1AAuto.com http://1aau.to/ia/1AACS00326A CV axle has flexible joints. Often, these joints wear out, or seize from contaminants...
youtu.be
i managed to find the cv axle in stock at mopar.com. when trying to order the intermediate shaft, even though it shows in stock the order gets cancelled with "none in inventory". here's what i'm looking at:
2019-2021 Ram 1500 Axle Intermediate Shaft 68399422AC | Mopar Estores
2019-2021 Ram 1500 Axle Intermediate Shaft 68399422AC
store.mopar.com
i understand most replacements do both, but thinking i should be able to re-use mine since it is fairly new. they shouldn't be siezed yet. if it doesn't separate and comes out as one piece, i think i can (gently) clamp the smooth part of the stub shaft and bang on the old cv until it separates. that's my theory. i do worry about the c clips and o ring. has anyone transferred these, or do you recommend always replacing both?
on the install, i've found some remove the whole knuckle and others keep the lower ball joint attached. i'm thinking real mechanics get crap out of their way to make the job easier, but DIYers like myself prefer to avoid taking things apart that aren't strictly necessary. i'll see when i get into it, but any concerns with just pivoting the knuckle out of the way vs fully removing it? maybe there's more concern of separating the new cv shaft while flexing it into place?
when putting it back together, a lot of videos show everyone just tightening everything down fully as they go. some mention the added step of using a lower torque setting initially then fully tightening on the ground. that makes sense where bushings are involved, but i even saw some people doing that for the axle nut. what's the right way to do this?
i have most of the torque specs from doing the level. i confirmed some in various videos but mostly found this useful:
Chassis Torque Specs
Chassis Torque Specs - credit goes to brandonjansen for this (4th Gen RAM) Shock Absorber Upper Nut --------------------------------------------------------------40 ft lbs Shock Absorber Lower Bolt -------------------------------------------------------------100 ft lbs Shock Tower to Frame...
www.ramforum.com
again, i know that mentions 4th gen, but are there major differences for a 5th gen? as part of this i'm going to re-torque everything i touched doing the level so want to be sure.
thanks for any help!