seafoam in the oil sorry I need some fast responses.

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Treburkulosis

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I know this isn't the engine forum, but I am short on time tomorrow. We have a double header football game and just a ton of other stuff to do. Useless info I know. Anyways, I have the dreaded hemi tick. Its only on really humid days, but its time for a oil change and I thought it can't hurt right? I have about enough time to put 25-30 miles on the truck before I have got to change it to stay on schedule. Is this enough time if I run it on the freeway at let's say 60 mph to clean the lifters? I am running Mobil 1 synthetic 5w20 with a wix filter now. I have rougly 4500 miles on my current oil change. The truck has 68k on it if that makes any difference. I am switching to castrol synthetic and I'm gonna try the purelator boss filter. I found a good deal at my auto parts store.
 

Rzrman328

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Hemi tick or broken manifold bolt?

Does it make the noise only on cold start up? Go away after a while?
 
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Treburkulosis

Treburkulosis

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It goes away after a few minutes and only on a cold start up. It just started It. I haven't touched the manifolds. It sounds like it is coming from the engine not the exhaust. So seafoam is not a good option? I did read and it seemed like it helped the 06-08s. I know it's a different model. I did a fuel system treatment and seemed to help with me switching to Mobil 1 on this last oil change, but since then I have switched my gas to Exxon and this week it's back. It's been really humid on the day's it's done it. Today it did not do it. I am kinda stumped. I did buy the truck used.
 

Rzrman328

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Sounds like a broken manifold bolt....if it goes away after warmed up.


The jury's out on sea foam usage. Some live by it, others say snake oil.

I've only heard good things.
 
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Treburkulosis

Treburkulosis

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Sounds like a broken manifold bolt....if it goes away after warmed up.

I don't mean to sound stupid, but how with the exhaust system being 100% stock?
 

Rzrman328

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I don't mean to sound stupid, but how with the exhaust system being 100% stock?

Very common occurrence on our stock system setup.

Usually back bolts that break off.

That's the one that broke off on mine.
 

Mineralram

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Hemi's are known for broken manifold bolt issues

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Broken exhaust manifold bolts are fairly common on the Hemi. Most often it seems to be the top rear bolt on the right side manifold that breaks. It is covered by the 100k mile powertrain warranty.
 
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Treburkulosis

Treburkulosis

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I don't know then. Why did it not do it for nearly this entire oil change then start again? It was pretty bad during my first stealership oil change and now after being gone for 4+ months it's back.
 

Rzrman328

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Weird that it went away and came back.

Mine started one day out of the blue loud as **** and never went away.
 

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The oil viscosity will have a much greater effect on the engine valvetrain, than differing brands of oil or gas. Humidity shouldn't have an effect, unless you frequently drive very short distances, thus not allow accumulated condensation within the engine crankcase to burn off.
 
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Treburkulosis

Treburkulosis

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The oil viscosity will have a much greater effect on the engine valvetrain, than differing brands of oil or gas. Humidity shouldn't have an effect, unless you frequently drive very short distances, thus not allow accumulated condensation within the engine crankcase to burn off.

That could be the case we are working 1 to 5 minutes from the house. I am constantly making short stents.
 

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Valvetrain tick will be loudest near the intake manifold area. Exhaust manifold noise will be loudest near the inner fender well area.
 

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Found this....

STAR Case Number: S1209000017
Release Date: 11/05/2012
Symptom/Vehicle Issue: Clatter / Tick Noise From Engine

Diagnosis:
If the customer complaint is loud clatter / ticking type noise after engine has not been started for several days, or noise is detected during PDI, there is a possibility that air has been trapped in the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster. Please follow these guidelines when evaluating engine noise related to lifters (HLAs) in Hemi engines

Hemi Lifter Purge Guideline
1. Warm engine to standard idle conditions.
2. Listen to the engine for 30 to 60 seconds with the hood up and the engine cover removed.
Note: Engine noise may be in the form of a clicking, chatter, or clattering noise. If noise is present, de-aeration of the lifters maybe required.
3. Run the engine between 2000 and 3000 RPM for three to five minutes.
4. Return the engine to standard idle speed for 30 to 60 seconds.
5. Evaluate noise if noise is present repeat the run an additional 4 cycles.
6. If noise is present, take the vehicle on a typical drive cycle.
Note: The typical drive cycle will be about 10-15 miles of combined highway and city driving.
Note: Avoid marshaling maneuvers (quick start /stop operation) during evaluation.
 

huntergreen

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you are are using a top brand oil. no need to add sea foam.
 

SitKneelBend

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I think seafoam is a great product I use all the time. That being said, I don't use it much now that I have a new truck, but I used it to rejuvenate my old 5.2L 99 Ram Sport around every 50,000 miles (after 100,000).

I traded that truck in at 224,000 miles running strong for my 2014 Pentastar. The previous truck had seafoam in all systems (gas, intake, oil), the latter will only get it in the gas tank until around 100,000 miles.

Side note, I put it in all of my lawn equipment gas tanks and motorcycle tank prior to storing. They always fire right up come spring time as if I used them the day before.

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Treburkulosis

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you are are using a top brand oil. no need to add sea foam.

I have no idea what the previous owner used. Dealership used a cheapo oil filter and probably bulk oil. I immediately switched to mobil 1 syn and a wix filter. I did seafoam this morning and ran it 30 miles. I change it to castrol syn and a purolator boss filter. I really like that filter. I believe this is the set up I am going to run. As for the tick. Its gone. I'll check it tomorrow when it's had 12+ hours of sitting. If not what's the 100k mile warranty? 5 years?
 

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Snake oil. SeaFoam will likely do more harm than good.
Do you have anything to back up your assumption?

I had an Isuzu Rodeo with the GM 3.2 V6. That engine had an issue with oil drain holes being very undersized. In a nice clean engine they flowed just enough oil back to the sump, but you get a little bit of carbon buildup and the oil didn't drain fast enough and would get backed up into the combustion chamber. As a result I would lose between 1 and 1.5 quarts of oil between oil changes.

It was a design flaw and there was no official fix for it. I went on a forum and found that people recommended using Seafoam, directly applied through the brake booster into the crankcase. I followed the instructions (boy does it make a lot of smoke when you do that!!!) and found that it cleared up the carbon buildup in my engine. After I did that, I wasn't using any oil between changes.

I have anecdotal evidence that Seafoam WORKS. While I don't know the root cause of the "Hemi tick", nor do I know if Seafoam will fix the issue... I can assure that Seafoam does indeed work for some problems.
 

Hootbro

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Do you have anything to back up your assumption?

I had an Isuzu Rodeo with the GM 3.2 V6. That engine had an issue with oil drain holes being very undersized. In a nice clean engine they flowed just enough oil back to the sump, but you get a little bit of carbon buildup and the oil didn't drain fast enough and would get backed up into the combustion chamber. As a result I would lose between 1 and 1.5 quarts of oil between oil changes.

It was a design flaw and there was no official fix for it. I went on a forum and found that people recommended using Seafoam, directly applied through the brake booster into the crankcase. I followed the instructions (boy does it make a lot of smoke when you do that!!!) and found that it cleared up the carbon buildup in my engine. After I did that, I wasn't using any oil between changes.

I have anecdotal evidence that Seafoam WORKS. While I don't know the root cause of the "Hemi tick", nor do I know if Seafoam will fix the issue... I can assure that Seafoam does indeed work for some problems.

I agree also, Seafoam does work when properly applied and used. I have used it on vehicles with rough idle that need just either an intake or throttle body cleaning and the vacuum method of using Seafoam does work most times in smoothing out a rough idle.

That being said, it is not a miracle in a bottle if things are wrong with a vehicle beyond just needing a upper intake cleaning. I think many of the sour **** naysayers have used for applications that Seafoam was never intended to fix. Also, there has been instances of incorrect usage of Seafoam that have hydro-locked an engine but that is more due to user error than the product itself.
 
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