Tailgate hits power jack in my trailer

[Toddbigboytruck]

Ok I would believe every one that has pulled a trailer has come up with this. It is a hassle and I was looking online last night to get ready for camping season.

So I looked at turning the head on my power jack. I can’t do it easily, so it looks like I will have to increase the shank length on my weight distribution hitch from the 14 inch (distance between the center of ball to the center of the hitch pin hole) to a 16 or 18 inch shank. I think the 16 would work but I know that the 18 would leave me a lot of clearance.

I do not think I will have issues with the safety chain length or the trailer plug

Has any one done this have they had any issues doing the shank swap I have a little squatting and I hope to remedy this with the installation or airbags this spring.

 

[69GWC]

My last trailer cleared just fine with the power jack, my new one with a manual jack now hits same hitch.
I dont think some of these trailer manufacturers think about this when they install the jack or design the placement for it.

 

[Fast69Mopar]

Ok I would believe every one that has pulled a trailer has come up with this. It is a hassle and I was looking online last night to get ready for camping season.

So I looked at turning the head on my power jack. I can’t do it easily, so it looks like I will have to increase the shank length on my weight distribution hitch from the 14 inch (distance between the center of ball to the center of the hitch pin hole) to a 16 or 18 inch shank. I think the 16 would work but I know that the 18 would leave me a lot of clearance.

I do not think I will have issues with the safety chain length or the trailer plug

Has any one done this have they had any issues doing the shank swap I have a little squatting and I hope to remedy this with the installation or airbags this spring.

View attachment 197738

Here is what I have done in the past. I have taken the motor off of the top of the Jack and turned it around somit would clear the tailgates. You can do it on some electric jacks and some won't allow it.

If yours will not work being turned 180° to clear the tailgates find a local welder or good muffler shop and ask them to cut the welds on the jack and rotate it to clear the tailgate and weld it back in place.

 

[RVGuy]

What I do is hook up the trailer to the truck, remove the bolts holding the tongue jack to the frame. Turn the entire jack 90° and mark any holes you'll need to drill to reinstall the 3 bolts. Drill any required holes, reinstall the jack 90° from the original location.

In terms of your squat, if you have the weight distribution hitch setup properly you should be able to adjust it to eliminate the squat. Airbags only hide the problem, they don't actually fix anything.

The problem with a longer shank is you're increasing the length of a fulcrum. For every additional 12" of length you're adding another 100% of force the tongue weight is putting on your truck. By adding 4" you're adding another 33% of torque onto the receiver of your truck. It's not a lot (unless you're already near capacity with your trailer) but it's still best to avoid it if you can.

 

[dhay13]

R=That's what I was going to mention about the decreased towing capacity with a longer shank. I know my step-son had one of the tiny 1.25" or whatever they are hitches and bought the adapter to go to 2" and the sticker on the adapter said it would reduce towing capacity by 50%

 

[sandawilliams]

Ok I would believe every one that has pulled a trailer has come up with this. It is a hassle and I was looking online last night to get ready for camping season.

So I looked at turning the head on my power jack. I can’t do it easily, so it looks like I will have to increase the shank length on my weight distribution hitch from the 14 inch (distance between the center of ball to the center of the hitch pin hole) to a 16 or 18 inch shank. I think the 16 would work but I know that the 18 would leave me a lot of clearance.

I do not think I will have issues with the safety chain length or the trailer plug

Has any one done this have they had any issues doing the shank swap I have a little squatting and I hope to remedy this with the installation or airbags this spring.

View attachment 197738

I rotated my entire jack and only used the two bolts that lined up with the existing holes in the mount plate. Works great and never a problem with just the two bolt vs. three bolt mount. Trailer is 8800# loaded.

 

[El Huapo]

No matter what you do with that jack, you will always have to be careful if the tailgate is down and you want to turn the truck either going forward or especially back.

I cut the ball receiver off of one of mine and added 16" of heavy-duty square tubing to extend the trailer tongue away from the lifting jack. I'm a decent welder and I added lots of beef to the new arrangement.

Old books say (as I recall) that extending the trailer tongue makes it easier to maneuver, alternately, extending the reach from the truck to the ball makes it harder---just what I remember. In my case it seemed to correct.

I think the prior posts about increased load on the parts is accurate and should be heeded too.

 

[sandawilliams]

No matter what you do with that jack, you will always have to be careful if the tailgate is down and you want to turn the truck either going forward or especially back.

I cut the ball receiver off of one of mine and added 16" of heavy-duty square tubing to extend the trailer tongue away from the lifting jack. I'm a decent welder and I added lots of beef to the new arrangement.

Old books say (as I recall) that extending the trailer tongue makes it easier to maneuver, alternately, extending the reach from the truck to the ball makes it harder---just what I remember. In my case it seemed to correct.

I think the prior posts about increased load on the parts is accurate and should be heeded too.

I never leave the tailgate down and move the rig. Just asking for problems but being able to open and close the tailgate while sitting is important to me for setting up the TT.

 

[Toddbigboytruck]

I rotated my entire jack and only used the two bolts that lined up with the existing holes in the mount plate. Works great and never a problem with just the two bolt vs. three bolt mount. Trailer is 8800# loaded.

T tried to rotate and it will not worn no holes will line up

 

[Toddbigboytruck]

No matter what you do with that jack, you will always have to be careful if the tailgate is down and you want to turn the truck either going forward or especially back.

I cut the ball receiver off of one of mine and added 16" of heavy-duty square tubing to extend the trailer tongue away from the lifting jack. I'm a decent welder and I added lots of beef to the new arrangement.

Old books say (as I recall) that extending the trailer tongue makes it easier to maneuver, alternately, extending the reach from the truck to the ball makes it harder---just what I remember. In my case it seemed to correct.

I think the prior posts about increased load on the parts is accurate and should be heeded too.

Yes. That is what I was what I was thinking I can buy a 18 inch shank and I don’t need to worry a my welding ability I am all about making it legal and safe.

 

[Toddbigboytruck]

Yes it is

I never leave the tailgate down and move the rig. Just asking for problems but being able to open and close the tailgate while sitting is important to me for setting up the TT.

Yes I only want to open the tailgate to let out the dogs from there crates or grab something from the a cooler I will never move the truck with the tailgate down

 

[tron67j]

It's hard to tell from the picture so apologies if you already measured, but I would measure the distance between the shaft of the jack stand and where the lip of your tailgate is when the truck is attached and the tailgate is down. That "A" arm section of your trailer hitch appears a bit short in the picture, I wonder if you have the clearance between tailgate lip and pipe even if you turn the electric motor housing sideways. Good luck

 

[Tim Garceau]

wrong thread

 

[zeb handeland]

They say you learn and remember if it happened to you once. I still hadn't learned. I have the 3 divot gate. My enclosed trailer manual jack likes my tailgate. Been told a receiver extender helps. I put on a tailgate assist strut to help me remember now.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[sandawilliams]

T tried to rotate and it will not worn no holes will line up

Usually two of the three bolt holes line up.

 

[Toddbigboytruck]

It's hard to tell from the picture so apologies if you already measured, but I would measure the distance between the shaft of the jack stand and where the lip of your tailgate is when the truck is attached and the tailgate is down. That "A" arm section of your trailer hitch appears a bit short in the picture, I wonder if you have the clearance between tailgate lip and pipe even if you turn the electric motor housing sideways. Good luck

Well I did all the measurements and if I was to add on 2 1/2 inch the tailgate will clear both the head of the power jack and the tub so I will be going with a18 inch vrs the 14 inch shank witch will give me a 1 1/2 extra clearance from the head of the power jack and 3 1/2 from the tub when the tailgate in Down all the way.
But this now brings up another issue that is have in the trailer tongue weight 4 inch further back then before which will change the geometry and cause the truck to sage more so now I will have to install air bags in the springs. To compensate

 

[Toddbigboytruck]

Lift trailer using unnecessary fancy jack to release ball from tongue, move truck away from trailer, open tailgate. I

Reassemble.

In all seriousness, what is preventing lengthening the distance with some tube steel and MIG welded.

Well the shank is 2 inch solid steel I don’t think even thick wall tube would fit in the hitch. As well handle the torque of the 600lbs of the trailer bouncing up and down as I go down the road. The idea that I caused a accident would kill me. Now on my little 14 foot enclosure trailer that makes out at 2500 lbs I will be getting a extension sleeve soon or next time I need to use that trailer.
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Blue-Ox/BX88265.html

 

[Toddbigboytruck]

Usually two of the three bolt holes line up.

Yes mine only two holes line up well kind of. But even with the cost of the airbags and new shank on the weight distribution hitch, the peace of mind that I have the factory approved set up on the jack is worth it.
I would hate that something I did not correct could cause damage to some one or the trailer

 

[Toddbigboytruck]

They say you learn and remember if it happened to you once. I still hadn't learned. I have the 3 divot gate. My enclosed trailer manual jack likes my tailgate. Been told a receiver extender helps. I put on a tailgate assist strut to help me remember now.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Yes I aM ok for now with my enclosure trailer it is a little one 14 foot and max weight is only 2500 lbs I will be getting this https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Blue-
Ox/BX88265.html

To prevent any damage with that trailer. Also I don’t drive around with a trailer hitch sticking out of the back of the truck so I will be taking it off when I am not towing

it is illegal in Ontario Canada to drive around with a trailer hitch on the back of a vehicle unless it is in use. It a law that now one follows but it is there.

 

[Toddbigboytruck]

What I do is hook up the trailer to the truck, remove the bolts holding the tongue jack to the frame. Turn the entire jack 90° and mark any holes you'll need to drill to reinstall the 3 bolts. Drill any required holes, reinstall the jack 90° from the original location.

In terms of your squat, if you have the weight distribution hitch setup properly you should be able to adjust it to eliminate the squat. Airbags only hide the problem, they don't actually fix anything.

The problem with a longer shank is you're increasing the length of a fulcrum. For every additional 12" of length you're adding another 100% of force the tongue weight is putting on your truck. By adding 4" you're adding another 33% of torque onto the receiver of your truck. It's not a lot (unless you're already near capacity with your trailer) but it's still best to avoid it if you can.

I totally agree. I too did the math and now I will be adding air lift 1000hd bags to the back spring to prevent any additional sag on the truck. I will be doing this then going to a CATscale to insure that I am in compliance. I am so dis satisfied with the load capacity any way.