VERY annoying rear axle noise. 2002 1500 Advice before tear apart please

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oreo57

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Long story short I've had this tapping noise in the rear axle area for awhile. Unfortunately I needed the truck for some work so all I had time to do is stop at my tranny "guy" who thought it was just some dirt rust stuck somewhere (truck is beat). Thought it was, atm nothing to be worried about.
Well manged to finally find time to tear into the issue. First assumption was the parking brake shoes/parts may be err "broke" and the noise sounded like the drivers side from the curb echos.

Anyways after a rust battle with the tire /lugs I managed to check both rear sides.
Nothing broke, nothing out of place, bearings seem tight ect.

Now for some possible diagnostics. Soo had the rear pass tire/disc off and spun the axle in N using star tire iron and the lugs on.
Got this "click" sound which I assume gets magnified 10x under driving.

very loud and increases timing from 0-45mph. Not so noticeable over that speed but this is strictly a city truck and, honestly, don't trust it atm.

My problem is I can't EXACTLY pinpoint the noise.
My initial fear was something to do w the Auburn lsd I put in when the Chrysler one self destructed.
This was just a few years and very little miles ago.

Anyways turning the wheel hub by hand I hear 8 "clicks" per revolution.
Sounds like it is right at the hub/shaft interface but could be echoing???

Anyways I'm sort of at a crossroads with this rust bucket. Embarrasing sitting next to our 2003 Honda Element with not a spot of rust on it..
Engine (5.9) only has 74K on it but frame has holes and box is disintegrating. Actually if it wasn't for the frame I would rebuild it, maybe.
As of now it is looking like "for parts".

Anyway any hint on the CLICKING noise?
Axle bearing/seal
Diff bearings gears new grease?

Would like thoughts b4 opening diff and pulling axle. Besides not sure how the Auburn attaches to that passenger axle.

Not too long ago it was more sporadic. Last few weeks it is grown to be permanent.

Thanks btw.
 

GTyankee

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watch this video, down below

Do you have a 2 piece drive shaft ?
at times the center bearing may click

another thing that may click, would be broken teeth at the end of the axle


something that i might try

jack the truck up & set it solidly on Jack Stands

grab an old mop or broom handle
chock the wheels that are still touching the ground

this part is up to you

put someone in the drivers seat for an extra bit of safety

with the wheels off the ground, have them start the vehicle & put the truck in gear

You reach under the truck with that long length of wood
set it on the rear differential & hold the other end against your ear, listen to the wood.

If you have a 2 piece drive shaft, hold that wood against the part that supports the center bearing & listen to the wood.

move that wood around to other places, you will find where the noise is loudest, without getting your body under the running truck
 

pacofortacos

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Step one - disconnect the driveshaft
Step two - see if the noise is still in the rear end
step three - remove drum/rotor on each wheel side so that you are just turning the axle shaft
If it is still there, then the cover has to come off and go from there.

I also suspect u-joint.
 
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oreo57

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Thanks for the answers.
I need to get some more pb blaster b4 slowly proceeding.

meanwhile I'll just click click away..

U joints visually look rusty good. :)
 
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oreo57

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OK tired the "put in reverse with brake, shift to drive and yea there is a "knock" when I shift.
How definitive is this as to bad U joint?

Anther premature failing part? (70k miles, almost zero hauling (2x yr 20ft pontoon 10 miles) or heavy loads)
 

GTyankee

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if the bearings on he U-joint are worn
jack the rear end up
vehicle in neutral
rotate a drive shaft or tire a few inches in one direction & switch directions.
If you hear a clang, you should check U joint bearings, etc.

If it is the bearings, don't even think about buying a new set at the local auto parts store.
They are made with too much play or slack

If you have a Drive Shaft Shop near you, ask which brand that they prefer
 
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oreo57

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Thanks. I'm slow walking this repair. Haven't decided yet to dump this truck (bad pun) yet soo not atm going to drop $$$'s into it.
Anyways after about 2 days of pb soak and 2 days of praying I don't bust or round the bolts managed to get the 4 bolts off the axle plate.
BUT still haven't pulled the axle.
I still don't think its that anyways.
I can hand turn the axle a tad and it feels like the axle to diff gears are a bit loose. But what do I know.
Side note, I was going to replace the 4 bolts but having a bear of a time getting them. Tried NAPA but the bolts the clerk said were for my truck were def. not for my truck.
Star heads as opposed to 15mm hex head.
On line sellers were confusing and cost per bolt were from $5 each (ok) to like $17 or more.
Unfortunately the $5 ones had like $25 shipping.. crazy times.

If the problem is the posi/ ring gear /axle gears and parts start adding up to over $700.. this baby is toast..I'll have to see what i can see.

I really never bonded with this truck and its really beat now..actually made me decide a RAM is NOT my next one.. but unfortunately not finding anything I like in ford-land around here or not many GMC.. Let me add "affordable with decent mileage"...YMMV.

Like I said.. 70k miles (3300/yr average), little stress sht shouldn't happen like this.
I ws looking at some 2010-ish ones but some of the recalls and complaints are troublesome.
Gas tanks falling off, pinion gears dropping drive shafts. Trucks moving in park..

Days like this I just wish I was rich and buy a Toyota Land Cruiser. Hopefully no shrapnel air bags..
 
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oreo57

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NOT the u joints.....
Still can't exactly pinpoint it but no matter, all is about the same tear down anyways.
Open pumpkin, remove axle...
 
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oreo57

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FOLLOWUP.
Removed drive shaft per above. u joints fine.
Opened pumpkin to remove pas axle.. Same there.. nothing. Bearings good, seals good, shaft good splines good.
This was the side that did the click click noise.

Auburn "looks" fine though there are some questions about it:
1)See photo and "dings" in the plate.
2) 3 springs seem out of place. sort of but ???
3) Nobody told me both wheels have to be off the ground (driveshaft was still off btw)
to remove that center pin easily. Don't ask what I did.. ;)
4) No chipped teeth wear spots ovious. Worm gear looks good.
5) Only toublesome spot is I am questioning the amount of backlash BUT this was installed by a tranny guy.
Who am I to argue.

Didn't pull the drivers side axle.

Anyways basicially I'm SOL for finding anything obvious.

To recap the noise that started this, you know how us old timers put a trading card in our bike spokes.
Well that is the noise.

With both tires off the ground spinning them (by hand, pumpkin empty of fluid) there is no noises except for a swooshing sound on dr. side wheel BUT think that is just the parking brake shoes since I messed with the adjuster a bit.

Anyways will button up the diff as soon as I get my gasket rtv and GM additive. Got the 80/90 oil. Not synth.

Long, frustrating day.

Funny that it is a bad day when you expect to find something but find nothing.

Will update after it's all buttoned back up.
 
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oreo57

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UPDATE:
Since I couldn't find anything obvious I decided to button it up and see if by chance I shook something out.
Haven't driven it yet (or actually put diff. oil back)

Pretty sure something is amiss w/ the Auburn.

Recap: Pulled drive shaft, chkd u joints.. fine
Pull pass side axle (one that makes the noise whne you hand turn it in neutral)
nothing there, bearings seal seem fine
Pulled drv side down to axle.. nothing there

FUN PART you tube vid attached.
no more than a 1/4 turn on tire btw.
Any guesses?

Noise

BTW: Doesn't do that w/ both tires off ground in Neutral.
Does it with axle removed.
 

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