ARH Headers torque specs?

bassheadhemi · Aug 27, 2017

I'll be installing my headers tomorrow morning and can't find the torque specs for any of the bolts...

Anyone have an official document?

My Remflex gasket says 20ft-lb so that's what I'll use, but for the band clamps and the bolts that attach the headers to the mid pipe I have no clue.

Wild one · Aug 28, 2017

Good-n-tight,lol.You can't get a torque wrench on most of the bolts ,so just go good and tight,then re-torque them after a couple heat cycles and you'll be okay

bassheadhemi · Aug 28, 2017

Well that didn't go as planned and got a little surprise

1st I had to cut the mid pipe at the y pipe connection because I couldn't get it off. The ARH y pipe look longer so I hope that the mid pipe won't be too short now.

2nd passenger rear had a broken bolt and was leaking, asked the dealer to check a month ago and everything was fine. It probably broke after I left the lot... Luckily there was still a bit left and I was able to remove it without drama.

3rd this bolt

yeah that's the bolt for the lower bracket of the dipstick tube. This took my afternoon to get off. Lifted the engine and was able to get it out, but what a PITA.

I've test fitted the headers after that and so far there's just the transmission neutral cable that need to be relocated.

Wild one said:
Good-n-tight,lol.You can't get a torque wrench on most of the bolts ,so just go good and tight,then re-torque them after a couple heat cycles and you'll be okay

lol yeah now that I see it that's what I'll do

Wild one · Aug 28, 2017

bassheadhemi said:
Well that didn't go as planned and got a little surprise

1st I had to cut the mid pipe at the y pipe connection because I couldn't get it off. The ARH y pipe look longer so I hope that the mid pipe won't be too short now.

2nd passenger rear had a broken bolt and was leaking, asked the dealer to check a month ago and everything was fine. It probably broke after I left the lot... Luckily there was still a bit left and I was able to remove it without drama.

3rd this bolt

yeah that's the bolt for the lower bracket of the dipstick tube. This took my afternoon to get off. Lifted the engine and was able to get it out, but what a PITA.

I've test fitted the headers after that and so far there's just the transmission neutral cable that need to be relocated.

lol yeah now that I see it that's what I'll do

You aren't the only one who lifted the engine off the drivers mount to get that bolt out,lol.I swore that little ******* was long enough to hold the motor mount on,on the other side of the engine :roflsquared:

Wild one · Aug 28, 2017

Also slide the dipstuck tube back in place before tightening up the header.If the header has some wiggle room,it usually makes it easier to get the tube back in. I shortened the bolt slightly,after finally getting it out.

bassheadhemi · Aug 28, 2017

Wild one said:
Also slide the dipstuck tube back in place before tightening up the header.If the header has some wiggle room,it usually makes it easier to get the tube back in. I shortened the bolt slightly,after finally getting it out.

good to know!

You screw it back in? You didn't cut the lower bracket?

Wild one · Aug 29, 2017

Yup lol. I ended up going to a custom 29" Lokar dipstick,it made things a lot nicer .

bassheadhemi · Aug 29, 2017

Well I'm happy I didn't use my broken torque wrench on the header bolts... I've set it to 40 ft-lb and the damn thing never clicked and broke the bolt of one of the clamp luckily I had a backup clamp.

Wild one said:
Yup lol. I ended up going to a custom 29" Lokar dipstick,it made things a lot nicer .

Wow those are nice, I wanted to get a new dipstick as the one I have now might have been handle a little too much

How much it costed you, if you don't mind sharing?

Everything is back on now (except for the wheel liner) and it's way too loud, maybe I have have a leak, but can't really test past 8 as the neighbor have small children so tomorrow is another day.

CTD · Aug 30, 2017

I put some ARH headers with cats on a couple weeks ago. Just a heads up make sure the Y pipe and headers are not to close the the brake lines that run down the frame. Mine were only about a quarter inch away and I ended up burning a hole in one of the lines the other day, even with cool tape on them. I tried to adjust the headers and Y pipe ever which way but that is just how mine lined up. Maybe I'm just unlucky as I have only heard of one other guy on hear with ARH headers that has had this problem, so maybe it will be a non issue for you. I just got done about an hour ago rerouting my brake lines to resolve the problem for good. Hears some links below of mine and the other guys with some pic's.

Hears some pics of mine that I posted in this trend.

http://www.ramforum.com/f44/arh_header_question-106634/

Hears another member on hear that had the same problem with some pics.

http://www.ramforum.com/f44/arh_headers-99875/index3.html#post1504509

bassheadhemi · Aug 30, 2017

bassheadhemi said:
Well I'm happy I didn't use my broken torque wrench on the header bolts... I've set it to 40 ft-lb and the damn thing never clicked and broke the bolt of one of the clamp luckily I had a backup clamp.

Wow those are nice, I wanted to get a new dipstick as the one I have now might have been handle a little too much How much it costed you, if you don't mind sharing?

Everything is back on now (except for the wheel liner) and it's way too loud, maybe I have have a leak, but can't really test past 8 as the neighbor have small children so tomorrow is another day.

Yeah mine doesn't look too bad.

Does your y pipe sit below the frame cross member? This is a low point that might be problematic for off-road

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CTD · Aug 30, 2017

bassheadhemi said:
Yeah mine doesn't look too bad.

Does your y pipe sit below the frame cross member? This is a low point that might be problematic for off-road

Sent from my SM-N920W8 using Tapatalk

That's odd, your lines seem to be routed a little different then mine were from what I can tell in the 1st pic. I notice you have a 15, i wonder if they made some slight adjustments to brake line routing in the 16's.

Yea mine has about 2 inches of hang compared to the cross member so this could very well be an issue if you go off road a lot.

Wild one · Aug 30, 2017

CTD said:
I put some ARH headers with cats on a couple weeks ago. Just a heads up make sure the Y pipe and headers are not to close the the brake lines that run down the frame. Mine were only about a quarter inch away and I ended up burning a hole in one of the lines the other day, even with cool tape on them. I tried to adjust the headers and Y pipe ever which way but that is just how mine lined up. Maybe I'm just unlucky as I have only heard of one other guy on hear with ARH headers that has had this problem, so maybe it will be a non issue for you. I just got done about an hour ago rerouting my brake lines to resolve the problem for good. Hears some links below of mine and the other guys with some pic's.

Hears some pics of mine that I posted in this trend.

http://www.ramforum.com/f44/arh_header_question-106634/

Hears another member on hear that had the same problem with some pics.

http://www.ramforum.com/f44/arh_headers-99875/index3.html#post1504509

My 1 7/8's Jba's and their corresponding Y pipe are very close to the lines that run down the drivers side frame rail on my 14.I wrapped my headers,plus insulated the brake lines with a couple layers of DEI's heat reflective shielding,so far between the wrap and shielding,the lines on my frame are holding up good.

The custom Lokar dipstick set me back just shy of 200 bucks Canuck shipped to my door.You guys down south would get it noticeably cheaper.Lokar is also building a 27" dipstick for the Hemi engines now,and it'll work fine with-out having to be custom ordered.When I ordered my 29" long dipstick a couple years ago,it wasn't available,and as far as I know,it's noticeably cheaper then the one they made for me.

Fishman1113 · Aug 30, 2017

Should probably take a pic without he hood open but my JBA's are real close the one brake line. I'm debating on rerouting that one before I get into a problem.

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CTD · Aug 30, 2017

Wild one said:
My 1 7/8's Jba's and their corresponding Y pipe are very close to the lines that run down the drivers side frame rail on my 14.I wrapped my headers,plus insulated the brake lines with a couple layers of DEI's heat reflective shielding,so far between the wrap and shielding,the lines on my frame are holding up good.

The custom Lokar dipstick set me back just shy of 200 bucks Canuck shipped to my door.You guys down south would get it noticeably cheaper.Lokar is also building a 27" dipstick for the Hemi engines now,and it'll work fine with-out having to be custom ordered.When I ordered my 29" long dipstick a couple years ago,it wasn't available,and as far as I know,it's noticeably cheaper then the one they made for me.

Mine brunet through the reflective shield, through the cool tap and in to one of the lines. I had mine wrapped but ended up taking it off because the wrap was making direct contact with the brake lines. I ended up borrowing a flare tool, bought some stainless steel line and rerouted them just to be done with it and for peace of mind.

Also I went out a few min ago and looked under the truck and there is diffidently a difference in the brake line routing between my truck and the OP's truck from what I can tell from the OP's pic. Ram must have made some changes to the brake routing on the 16's, it is minor changes but enough to be a problem when running these headers.

WiSH2oo0 · Aug 30, 2017

CTD said:
Ram must have made some changes to the brake routing on the 16's, it is minor changes but enough to be a problem when running these headers.

Changes for the better or for the worse for the people that have a 16+?

bassheadhemi · Aug 30, 2017

Wow that blow, well I'm debating about the cool tape, I'm worried that it will trap heat also. Did you had any brake fade before the line rupture? I think I'll carry an extinguisher with me because if it leak on the headers it might ignite...

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CTD · Aug 30, 2017

WiSH2oo0 said:
Changes for the better or for the worse for the people that have a 16+?

For the worse if you are planning to install these headers, I have no idea about other manufactures. If you look at the op's first pic you can see the two brake lines running along the upper part of the frame and then they angle down and go into the plastic brake line clip and then back to the rear wheels. That plastic clip is about 2 or 3 inches past where the y pipe turns toward the passengers side of the truck. With my truck it just runs straight along the lower part of the frame which puts the lines right behind a section of my Y pipe and where my header connects to the Y pipe instead of angling towards the top part of the frame like the op's which gave his plenty enough clearance.

If you look at the pic's in the trend I posted you can see my lines run on the lower part of the frame and has no angle in it to route the line to the upper part of the frame which would have probably given me no troubles at all.

http://www.ramforum.com/f44/arh_header_question-106634/#post1550566

CTD · Aug 30, 2017

bassheadhemi said:
Wow that blow, well I'm debating about the cool tape, I'm worried that it will trap heat also. Did you had any brake fade before the line rupture? I think I'll carry an extinguisher with me because if it leak on the headers it might ignite...

Sent from my SM-T713 using Tapatalk

To my surprise, I had none what so ever that I noticed. I happened to be due for an oil change and was lying under the truck changing it when I saw a few drops of fluid across the bottom of my Y pipe. I was lucky, I caught it before it completely blew whilel I was driving down the road as it just had a tiny pinhole brunet in the line at that point and was just squirting a tiny bit of fluid when I applied the brakes.

ARH Headers torque specs?

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