Cold air intakes

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Iggy4935

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I've got a 17 1500 Hemi. Looking into a CAI. Are they worth getting? Have had them on previous vehicles and not a fan of K&Ns filters because they require oil. If you guys got'em show'em


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DailyRam

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If you are looking for a Cold Air Intake, most are going to use an oiled cotton filter. S&B does offer a paper cone disposable filter. I went the S&B route. Running cotton filter for now, will probably pick up a second one to rotate and a filter sock.
16388291_10105227629470493_5737821067758289441_n.jpg

On the cotton filters, the oil is what traps the particles, so if you don't like that then the options are limited. The S&B re-oil kit is nicer than the K&N spray bottle kits IMO.
 
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Iggy4935

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If you are looking for a Cold Air Intake, most are going to use an oiled cotton filter. S&B does offer a paper cone disposable filter. I went the S&B route. Running cotton filter for now, will probably pick up a second one to rotate and a filter sock.
16388291_10105227629470493_5737821067758289441_n.jpg



I had a AEM on a previous vehicle and it was a reusable non oiled air filter. But haven't seen any AEMs for the 17 5.7.


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Casper

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http://www.ramforum.com/attachments/f44/13222d1370141281-s_b_cai_moes-finished_s_b_install.jpg

S&B CAI on 5.7L Ram 1500. One of the two best options. The other is the Varam Air Grabber which looks awesome, but I had concerns over ingesting snow, so I went S&B.

You can buy oiled or replaceable filters for the S&B and its a huge filter, so no air restriction and doesn't need frequent cleaning unless you've been out in the sand and grit.

I prefer the oiled filter since I don't have to drop $60 every time it needs cleaning.

Here's a picture of the pieces-parts before installation.
http://www.ramforum.com/attachments/f44/13221d1370141188-s_b_cai_moes-goodies.jpg
 
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Iggy4935

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With these engines is there a noticeable difference running a CAI?


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Rampant

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Given the lack of intake manufacturers for the 6.4, I went with the K&N but didn't want a wet filter. I just compared the dimensions and got an Amsoil dry filter with a sock. I know yours is not a 6.4, but just pointing out that the same options are available if you like a certain tube but don't want the wet filter or vise-versa.
57a6035bfb8e4c5603476e23e8f18fde.jpg


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H3MI UP

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Not to hi jack but what's wrong with the oiled filters? I am looking at getting a s&B.B. Myself
 

Rampant

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Not to hi jack but what's wrong with the oiled filters? I am looking at getting a s&B.B. Myself
In a nutshell, they coat the MAF sensor and accumulate a coating which insulates the sensor. This insulation interferes with the sensitivity of the sensor, since it is covered with oil and particles.

MAF sensors operate at a set temperature. It stands to reason that if it is coated, it is going to take less electricity to keep it at that temperature, right? Yes, so the computer sees that as having less air flow than it actually has and mixes the fuel/air potion accordingly. So then, given those perameters, the computer also calculates what it "should" be seeing at the aft O2 sensors and trims the ratio as needed to try and make the two inputs match. When it cannot make the two match by trimming (very small adjustments) the fuel, it will throw a code. Not necessarily a MAF code. Most commonly you'll get an O2 sensor code first.

There are many other factors at play, but the point here is that you need to keep those sensors clean and dry for them to work properly.

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H3MI UP

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In a nutshell, they coat the MAF sensor and accumulate a coating which insulates the sensor. This insulation interferes with the sensitivity of the sensor, since it is covered with oil and particles.

MAF sensors operate at a set temperature. It stands to reason that if it is coated, it is going to take less electricity to keep it at that temperature, right? Yes, so the computer sees that as having less air flow than it actually has and mixes the fuel/air potion accordingly. So then, given those perameters, the computer also calculates what it "should" be seeing at the aft O2 sensors and trims the ratio as needed to try and make the two inputs match. When it cannot make the two match by trimming (very small adjustments) the fuel, it will throw a code. Not necessarily a MAF code. Most commonly you'll get an O2 sensor code first.

There are many other factors at play, but the point here is that you need to keep those sensors clean and dry for them to work properly.

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Makes perfect since. Thanks for the info
 

H3MI UP

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In a nutshell, they coat the MAF sensor and accumulate a coating which insulates the sensor. This insulation interferes with the sensitivity of the sensor, since it is covered with oil and particles.

MAF sensors operate at a set temperature. It stands to reason that if it is coated, it is going to take less electricity to keep it at that temperature, right? Yes, so the computer sees that as having less air flow than it actually has and mixes the fuel/air potion accordingly. So then, given those perameters, the computer also calculates what it "should" be seeing at the aft O2 sensors and trims the ratio as needed to try and make the two inputs match. When it cannot make the two match by trimming (very small adjustments) the fuel, it will throw a code. Not necessarily a MAF code. Most commonly you'll get an O2 sensor code first.

There are many other factors at play, but the point here is that you need to keep those sensors clean and dry for them to work properly.

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Makes perfect since. Thanks for the info
 

sriley531

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I don't know that the oiled filters are necessarily bad, but they are easily (and often) over-oiled. I've seen it first hand, and that definitely is not a good thing.

That said, I personally don't use them on any of my stuff currently. Truck has a vararam. My Buick has a scoop with the filter protruding through the hood, I have an airaid conical dry filter on it. I've run k&n's/oiled filters on previous vehicles with no issues, just decided not to go that route this time. Honestly I'm not sure one is really all that superior to the other, but that's not from scientific testing or anything. I say follow your gut and get whatever tickles your pickle, odds are you'll be content.
 

G3SRT

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S&B good performance and awesome sound. Oil filter performs better as it allows for more airflow- just spray your MAF with the CRC MAF cleaner everyh 6-7k miles, and you ll be golden.
 

Casper

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With these engines is there a noticeable difference running a CAI?


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I feel a (very) little something, but its not the difference between breaking them lose at launch or not. Its more the quicker downshift, not bogging in MDS as much and rolling acceleration where I feel there is a minor difference.

1. Its one of the easiest mods you can do and dresses up the engine bay.
2. You get a little bit of throttle noise to complement your exhaust, but its not poser loud.
3. With the oiled filter you never have to buy, or send another filter to the landfill.
4. If, you ever add tune, headers and ported throttle body, you will have all the air needed.
5. Doesn't require tuning, and wont void your warranty.

I'm not selling anything so, you decide.
 

Casper

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S&B good performance and awesome sound. Oil filter performs better as it allows for more airflow- just spray your MAF with the CRC MAF cleaner everyh 6-7k miles, and you ll be golden.
There is no MAF on the Hemi.

That's an intake air temperature sensor.
 

Casper

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In a nutshell, they coat the MAF sensor and accumulate a coating which insulates the sensor. This insulation interferes with the sensitivity of the sensor, since it is covered with oil and particles.

MAF sensors operate at a set temperature. It stands to reason that if it is coated, it is going to take less electricity to keep it at that temperature, right? Yes, so the computer sees that as having less air flow than it actually has and mixes the fuel/air potion accordingly. So then, given those perameters, the computer also calculates what it "should" be seeing at the aft O2 sensors and trims the ratio as needed to try and make the two inputs match. When it cannot make the two match by trimming (very small adjustments) the fuel, it will throw a code. Not necessarily a MAF code. Most commonly you'll get an O2 sensor code first.

There are many other factors at play, but the point here is that you need to keep those sensors clean and dry for them to work properly.

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There is no Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor on the Hemi.
The sensor in the intake tube is an intake air temperature (IAT) sensor.
The IAT is so far downstream from the CAI that mine has never accumulated oil in 40K miles with the S&B CAI using an oiled filter.

I pull it all apart and look for oil or dust intrusion every Spring and Fall when I clean the air filter.
 
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Rampant

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Yes, I was explaining common concerns over using oiled filters in a very broad sense to someone who doesn't know much about air intake/fuel systems. It doesn't matter what types of sensor(s) you have between the air filter and the throttle body. Your 5.7 has an IAT further downstream toward the TB and my 6.4 has an IAT and a humidity sensor more upstream of the TB. Whatever the case, these sensors are used in conjunction with the MAP sensor to calculate air/fuel ratios.

The point is, and as I said in my original reply, any and all intake sensors need to be kept clean and dry to operate properly. It is easy to over-oil them for inexperienced people (more is always better, right?) and it may eventually cause issues with the sensors.
 

smiley

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I had a AEM on a previous vehicle and it was a reusable non oiled air filter. But haven't seen any AEMs for the 17 5.7.


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My drop in AEM is like that. No oil it is amazing.
 
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Pull Ya

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My Vararam--does a good job, looks good, tremendous horsepower gain if you pair it with a "catch can" :roflsquared::roflsquared:
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berry67

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what is a good cold air intake?

Hi I got a 2016 Ram 5.7 hemi I want to put a CAI on it but don't know which one to get. I've bin looking at k&n and afe power any recommendations?
 
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