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Burla said:

That Redline/RP filter club is sure filling up quick these days.

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Burla, do you know what ramnewbie is talking about in regards to the pressure relief?


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All I'm saying is make an informed decision before you do something. There are several on here that swear by redline and RP filters. That's fine, that's their deal, don't take one persons or one forums word for it. Do you're own research, talk to people away from forum and make up you're own mind. It's you're truck, use what you want, just don't let someone sell you on something just because they say so.

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Ramnewbie said:

Just like sheep

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I'm pretty sure sheep hate ticks as well.

Yeah, you're probably right, but with base end relief valve I have no tic, dome end, tic.

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Let me clarify, that's cold start tic, never had hot tic.

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Curlyp said:

Burla, do you know what ramnewbie is talking about in regards to the pressure relief?

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If there ever is contamination that clogs the filter, the valve opens and bypasses the filtration process. Now, if you were to use a mopar filter that is garbage cellulose, you likely don't even need a pressure relief valve because what happens is the media just blows holes naturally when the glues in the paper bind with heat cycles. Not just mopar junk filters, but any cellulouse one. Now, I hear the srt filters are synthetic, so maybe you can consider that as well. But I'm not 100% on that. I cut my last RP filter open after 14 months, it was still like new. Sometime soon within the next 4 months if I can wait til January, I will cut open my RP filter AFTER 2 years on my truck. I would never trust a Mopar Filter for two years, but that's just me. I will post that up in syn thread and report how the media has held up.

Now, with synthetic filters there is very little chance you will ever clog a filter, if that happens you have an issue much larger going on in your engine. Also, if your oil pressure spikes, your engine light will come on anyway. But even have said that, RP filter still have a bypass valve, so it is much to do about nothing.

One thing I always say to do when you go on long trips always as habit, play with evic settings between oil pressure psi, coolant temps, transmission temps, even tire psi. It is just a good habit to get into. I was a truck driver for a decade, I always read my gauges, and do so with the ram as well.

I totally concur with ram newbie, do your own research past this forum. If you ever find better info then what you get here, post that in Syn thread for the next guy. You can post that question over at Bob's, maybe you will get a better answer. let us know.

Ramnewbie said:

Yeah, you're probably right, but with base end relief valve I have no tic, dome end, tic.

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You had a RP/Amsoil filter and it ticked? I tried Puro synthetic filters, I actually bought two, and my truck had a tic with them, but not the RP that I had prior, so I went back to RP. I know there are a few synthetic media filters to choose from, the spun micro glass has me sold for life. If you know of one that has a different valve, that would be good info for someone to consider. I only know my experience, I have a puro synthetic that fits my ram I will never use unless maybe I do a flush someday. Not likely with redline, but if I ever see clumps in my oil I would do a flush.

Burla said:

You had a RP/Amsoil filter and it ticked? I tried Puro synthetic filters, I actually bought two, and my truck had a tic with them, but not the RP that I had prior, so I went back to RP. I know there are a few synthetic media filters to choose from, the spun micro glass has me sold for life. If you know of one that has a different valve, that would be good info for someone to consider. I only know my experience, I have a puro synthetic that fits my ram I will never use unless maybe I do a flush someday. Not likely with redline, but if I ever see clumps in my oil I would do a flush.

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No, my 2 filters that ticked were Purolator boss and FU. Went back to Mopar filter and no tic. This is me but I would never run an oil filter that long anyway, 6 months, 5 to 6 thousand miles.

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This is the reason why I choose RP filters, I didn't put much thought into the bypass valving or drain back valve, my main concentration was to find a high flow synthetic filter first and foremost. I like the idea of FU, I just bought a case for the wife's SUV which is a canister, but there is conflicting info if it is 100% synthetic, or combo. So I have seen a few wix xp/napa platinum, to me they are thinner tighter pleats, whereas RP is thicker maybe looser pleats. The micron rating between the two favors Wix XP by 5 microns (however there have been issues if you read Bob's), but that means the flow would likely benefit RP as far as the media goes, and also the holes are very generous as well, probably why it doesn't tick at all but with the puro boss it did. Of note, puro yellow can I had no tic for whatever that's worth.

Normally I am not this **** about it, but when you have a truck that is finicky and knocked like an old engine on it's last legs but yet is new, you search and try and if you can smooth out the ticks why the hell not? If I was on a 5 month interval I might consider paper, but I'm not changing the redline that early. My two year OCI still had 3 tbn left, I wanted a filter that could match my oil, and I found it.

When it comes to synthetic filters, there just aren't that many options. With these hemi's I think going back to paper filters and a 3 month OCI is not a bad play at all, but I got rid of my tick with redline as many guys have, here and at bob's, so I'm kinda in a box. I found what works for me.

Burla said:

This is the reason why I choose RP filters, I didn't put much thought into the bypass valving or drain back valve, my main concentration was to find a high flow synthetic filter first and foremost. I like the idea of FU, I just bought a case for the wife's SUV which is a canister, but there is conflicting info if it is 100% synthetic, or combo. So I have seen a few wix xp/napa platinum, to me they are thinner tighter pleats, whereas RP is thicker maybe looser pleats. The micron rating between the two favors Wix XP by 5 microns (however there have been issues if you read Bob's), but that means the flow would likely benefit RP as far as the media goes, and also the holes are very generous as well, probably why it doesn't tick at all but with the puro boss it did. Of note, puro yellow can I had no tic for whatever that's worth.

Normally I am not this **** about it, but when you have a truck that is finicky and knocked like an old engine on it's last legs but yet is new, you search and try and if you can smooth out the ticks why the hell not? If I was on a 5 month interval I might consider paper, but I'm not changing the redline that early. My two year OCI still had 3 tbn left, I wanted a filter that could match my oil, and I found it.

When it comes to synthetic filters, there just aren't that many options. With these hemi's I think going back to paper filters and a 3 month OCI is not a bad play at all, but I got rid of my tick with redline as many guys have, here and at bob's, so I'm kinda in a box. I found what works for me.

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I understand where you're coming from, just saying I would never run my oil that long, just me. Years ago when I was running Amsoil SS I would change it out at 10,000 miles because it just looked really dirty, and that was with their EA filter. At that time it only took me about 3 months to put on 10,000 miles. I had that Dakota 2 1/2 years and had 84000 miles on it when I traded it in. Dealer ask me if I rolled speedometer back and I told him if I had I would have rolled it back a hell of a lot further than that. Anyway, now, I drive a lot less miles and 6 months, 5 to 6 thousand miles is an OCI that I'm comfortable with. Even if I was to switch to redline, not saying it's never gonna happen, just not there yet, I would still go with my current OCI.

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Burla are you running the small oil filter or the big one ? If so can you pleasegive me the stock no. Thanks

tantore said:

Burla are you running the small oil filter or the big one ? If so can you pleasegive me the stock no. Thanks

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Here you go:

Burla said:

I get mine off Amazon, the parent company has went bankrupt, I'd buy 6 if you can. This is the large size will fit.

This is technically your model, 10-48, but the guys are running the 20-820 as it's bigger, either way.

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what he said, I have 2010 so it is the larger filter but as discussed you still can use the larger filter on any ram 4 gen.

burla thanks for the reply i been running the big filter mine is a 2012 so the no.will be the 20820 correct?

Unfortunately Redline is like Apple products, there's VERY few sales so when you find one grab it

tantore said:

burla thanks for the reply i been running the big filter mine is a 2012 so the no.will be the 20-820 correct?

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yes

So let's discuss something, no right answer but feel free to make your points. Mine will be on price and quality. What is better, running redline 5w30 and a RP filter for a year, or something cheaper like PYB and a cellulose filter 4 times a year.

PYB is 15 bucks for 1.25 gallons walmart, of which I have in my garage right this minute proudly, and cheap filters are about 4 bucks? So, if you only buy the 5 qrt add another 5 bucks to make up 7 qrts, so your oil change if you did it yourself is only 25 bucks or so. Now, if you believe most of the old paper out there on cellulose filters, they last 3 mos. yes some will say more, but have you ever personally cut them open after 6 mos and found them still in good use? I have, they aren't imo. So let's call this your 3 mos interval, pretty good strategy if you ask me. 4 times a year, 25 bucks a shot, so for 100 bucks a year you got clean oil.

Redline, let's forget that you can get it off ebay for 9.97, so let's say you pay the 11.95 right now at manu. 7 qrts x 12 bucks and add a 14 dollar synthetic filter, guess what just about the same number as the conventional oil above.

Which one will protect your engine better?

Conventional oil has contamination, so even when it is new you are putting things that absolutely will be left behind in that engine. Also chalked full of vasoline, I mean viscosity improvers. Even if it holds viscosity maybe possible with a 3 mos interval, you have many non oil particles introduced from jump street. Now, that redline will have contamination from combustion circulating much longer, but what does that mean? Clearly, the TBN says it can be run a year most of the time, no issue there. And never one have I had clumpy chunky gritty oil when I change the oil, not once no matter what I use.

IMO, I think it is a wash, there is no right answer. Hemi tick aside, because if you have hemi tick you really should be running redline imo. I like the idea of having the best possible base oil you possibly can find with a formula full of lubricty additives, but I also like the idea of having new oil every 3 mos and getting that combustion material changed out. You can also add something in the middle like m1 with a combo filter like m1, which again will be around 100 bucks if you do it every 6 mos.

All 3 strategies work, just put some thought into one of them and choose it. I don't think pushing any strategy is a good idea, but if you choose to do that more power to you. I only run a 2 year oci because the truck only gets 5k miles a year, it's anomaly.

There is no reason to continue to call people sheep because they prefer one strategy over the other.

Thats what I have been saying, I will change my oil once a year and only deal with the crappy filter location once a year for about the same price .
Bonus I get to use a oil and fliter that is known to stop the tick.
Its not being sheep to use a good product, and if we are sheep then we are all because we are all driving Rams.....

Ramnewbie said:

Is that pressure relief valve on dome end? I think OE Mopar filters are base end. I know that the RP filter is highly regarded on here but I feel safer with a base end relief valve if that's what Mopar says they should have. Jus sayin.

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I did some research and found a really good video on the pressure relief valve.

RP has 6 inlet holes and silicon anti drain back valve over cheap rubber (which is better).


Base

Oil comes in the inlet holes runs down the filter media to the pressure relief value them out. The problem with this is any containments would wash with the oil and going through the value and into the engine.

Top

The other style has the pressure relief value at the top. The oil never washes over the filter media. The contaminants never wash with the oil and go into the engine.

https://youtu.be/1ANmG5PXWMg


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69GWC said:

Thats what I have been saying, I will change my oil once a year and only deal with the crappy filter location once a year for about the same price .
Bonus I get to use a oil and fliter that is known to stop the tick.
Its not being sheep to use a good product, and if we are sheep then we are all because we are all driving Rams.....

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Maybe that's what's wrong with us, we're all ALPHA's

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