Synthetic or not? New truck, I wanna start right.

thunderjaw · Jan 10, 2014

So I have a 2013 1500Express, with the 5.7 Hemi. It has 4000 miles on it, and I'm about to change the oil for the first time.

I would love some expert advice on the pros and cons of Oil vs Synthetic.

Thanks!

Razzaa · Jan 10, 2014

Here we go again............

thunderjaw · Jan 10, 2014

Sorry, I guess this is probably an annoying and oft visited subject. I have gotten a lot of feedback from people I know around me, but I would really like some advice from folks who know more about my particular vehicle.

Any help would be appreciated.

atticusfaul · Jan 10, 2014

Tons of opinions on what type of synthetic. All I have to say is pick a full synthetic and go with it. "Regular" oil is not an option period...now nobody else needs to reply

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thunderjaw · Jan 10, 2014

atticusfaul said:
Tons of opinions on what type of synthetic. All I have to say is pick a full synthetic and go with it. "Regular" oil is not an option period...now nobody else needs to reply

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Thanks for the feedback... But I would still like to know "why"?

I could just look online in a Google search or something, but I'm afraid the answer would be biased by organizations selling one thing or another. So I would like some honest feedback from the people in this forum, so that I can move forward with confidence.

Does everyone pretty much agree with Atticus? If so, why?

Burla · Jan 10, 2014

Read the thread in my sig bud, go synthetic it is ok at 4k miles by anyone's standard. Read the entire thread, not all synthetics are equal.

Jeesh guys, give the guy a break he is new.

Bottom line group 2 oil or cheap oil has low tbn, literally all synthetics have high tbn and better noack numbers. So then you have to consider group 3, 4, or 5. And for that, you need to read the thread. Bottom line group 5 has the best film strength at operating temps, but it comes at a cost. If you don't want to pay it, group 3 or your mobil 1's Penzoil's will be adequate. If you have any q's PM me.

atticusfaul · Jan 10, 2014

Burla said:
Read the thread in my sig bud, go synthetic it is ok at 4k miles by anyone's standard. Read the entire thread, not all synthetics are equal.

Jeesh guys, give the guy a break he is new.

That's awesome that you have that thread in your sig. That we're I was about to send him before you posted!

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NYCruiser · Jan 10, 2014

Have you read your owner's manual on the subject?

Burla · Jan 11, 2014

Cruizer brings up a good point that I'm not for sure is in the oil thread. Your book says API certified oil. The top oils do not pay for this cert. One thing to consider if you are thinking of using a boutique oil, more here.

NYCruiser · Jan 11, 2014

This is the advice from the people that will change your engine if it blows up in the first 100K miles:

Engine Oil Viscosity — 3.6L/5.7L Engines (1500
Models Only)
MOPAR® SAE 5W-20 engine oil approved to Chrysler
Material Standard MS-6395 or equivalent Pennzoil® or
Shell Helix® is recommended for all operating temperatures.
This engine oil improves low temperature starting
and vehicle fuel economy.
The engine oil filler cap also shows the recommended
engine oil viscosity for your vehicle. For information on
engine oil filler cap location, refer to “Engine Compartment”
in “Maintaining Your Vehicle” for further information.
NOTE: MOPAR® SAE 5W-30 engine oil approved to
Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395 may be used when
SAE 5W-20 engine oil meeting MS-6395 is not available.

Synthetic Engine Oils
You may use synthetic engine oils provided the recommended
oil quality requirements are met, and the recommended
maintenance intervals for oil and filter changes
are followed.
NOTE: Under no circumstances should oil change intervals
exceed 10,000 miles (16,000 km) or twelve
months, whichever occurs first.

Engine Oil Selection
For best performance and maximum protection under all
types of operating conditions, the manufacturer only
recommends engine oils that are API Certified and meet
the requirements of Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395.
American Petroleum Institute (API) Engine Oil
Identification Symbol
This symbol means that the oil has
been certified by the American
Petroleum Institute (API). The
manufacturer only recommends
API Certified engine oils.

CAUTION!
Do not use chemical flushes in your engine oil as the
chemicals can damage your engine. Such damage is
not covered by the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.

Razzaa · Jan 11, 2014

NYCruiser said:
This is the advice from the people that will change your engine if it blows up in the first 100K miles:

Engine Oil Viscosity — 3.6L/5.7L Engines (1500
Models Only)
MOPAR® SAE 5W-20 engine oil approved to Chrysler
Material Standard MS-6395 or equivalent Pennzoil® or
Shell Helix® is recommended for all operating temperatures.
This engine oil improves low temperature starting
and vehicle fuel economy.
The engine oil filler cap also shows the recommended
engine oil viscosity for your vehicle. For information on
engine oil filler cap location, refer to “Engine Compartment”
in “Maintaining Your Vehicle” for further information.
NOTE: MOPAR® SAE 5W-30 engine oil approved to
Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395 may be used when
SAE 5W-20 engine oil meeting MS-6395 is not available.

Synthetic Engine Oils
You may use synthetic engine oils provided the recommended
oil quality requirements are met, and the recommended
maintenance intervals for oil and filter changes
are followed.
NOTE: Under no circumstances should oil change intervals
exceed 10,000 miles (16,000 km) or twelve
months, whichever occurs first.

Engine Oil Selection
For best performance and maximum protection under all
types of operating conditions, the manufacturer only
recommends engine oils that are API Certified and meet
the requirements of Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395.
American Petroleum Institute (API) Engine Oil
Identification Symbol
This symbol means that the oil has
been certified by the American
Petroleum Institute (API). The
manufacturer only recommends
API Certified engine oils.

CAUTION!
Do not use chemical flushes in your engine oil as the
chemicals can damage your engine. Such damage is
not covered by the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.

Are these also the same guys who cant diagnose without a code to read?

NYCruiser · Jan 11, 2014

Not really…LOL…the oil specs are written by the engine designers/engineers. Its the dealer service people that can't fix 'em.

I plan on using this in my truck and spend the change on gas for cruising:

Pennzoil Conventional

smiley · Jan 11, 2014

I agree there is always debate on brand but I think synthetic is all that should be used as it is so much better for cold starts and protection if neglected by accident. Good luck in your quest and as I point out often don't spend a bunch on oil and then use a really cheap filter or try and skimp on changing the filter.

$miley

Burla · Jan 11, 2014

Like Smiley said, get a good filter too.

I like my synthetic oil because it is unlike all conventional oils that contain small amounts of sulfur, wax, and asphaltic material that can promote detonation as well as varnish and sludge buildup.

Razzaa · Jan 11, 2014

I would recommend doing the research and making a decision based on what you feel good doing. The manual doesnt call for synthetic. I personally use synthetic because I believe it to be a superior product compared to lower group oils. I also looked for oils with a reasonable amount of Moly content. Lots of threads on here to help you make an informative decision. Gl

smiley · Jan 11, 2014

The manual also does not call for 0W-20 yet it is the best oil weight you could get and will work perfect with MDS. They suggest pennzoil now and that includes shell because of partnership. They don't care because engine will make it far past 200k with regular oil warranty is only 100000.

$miley

audio1der · Jan 11, 2014

@OP- lots of good advice here.
You asked about starting out right; synthetic is exactly that, so the concensus is that the question is answered. You just have to choose the brand, and filter.

bigq · Jan 11, 2014

Bob the oil guy has been on the Internet researching oil for years.

One part of the website has a 12 page explanation of everything you wanted to know about oil.

- Bob is the Oil Guy

Personally I use Castrol Edge solely because Brittney Force told me it was the best and someone that cute would not lie to me....right? :anitoof:

NYCruiser · Jan 11, 2014

I never leave oil in my vehicles more than 3-4K miles tops. Just can't justify the expense of synthetic on that duty cycle (especially in an engine that takes 7 quarts!). My personal choice, others will differ. Plenty of times my oil still looks pretty clean when I change it. That's why I stopped using synthetics a few vehicles ago.

My boat - That's a different story. I only change the oil once per season when it is coming out of the water each fall, so it always gets synthetic. That's a longer, harder duty cycle than my truck's oil will ever see. I also have the oil analyzed mid-season every year.

I also prefer synthetics in my differentials when I change it.

As long as I'm following the manufacturers recommendations, I'm comfortable. Doesn't mean others won't want to feel they are exceeding those recommendations. But if you are changing your oil diligently, and nothing is going wrong, how much better than that do you need to do?

Using synthetic will double the price of the oil changes. At the frequency I do it, that is about 5 changes/year. Even when I would use synth's I could never bring myself to leave it in there long enough to make it worth it. LOL

I'm well aware that synthetic is a superior product, but my point is that it isn't necessary in all applications (just my opinion). Ram seems to agree with me.

smiley · Jan 11, 2014

Buy your oil at Walmart it is $50 for 10 quarts then next time you buy another 5 qts and use remainder from last (which you should store inside) then you are talking about $45 bucks a change with a high quality filter. That is pretty cheap for cleaner engine and easier starts especially in cold weather. I am talking group 3 synthetics which are very good for most people without a high initial cost. They come out dirty then that is a good thing because they did their job of keeping engine clean. Put both in a clear bottle leave out in the cold and then tell me you don't see the value in the synthetic cold flow properties. You can amplify that with 0W-20 and lower startup wear even more.

$miley

Synthetic or not? New truck, I wanna start right.

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