Synthetic Oil

Ramnewbie said:

Because of it finding its way to the crankcase I'd only use one treatment just before oil change. Between top tier gas and 1 treatment that should be all that's needed for a 5/6k OCI.

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That is what I have been doing for years and it works.

I also believe that a properly working pcv system, with or without a catch can greatly reduces any sludge situations.

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Rampant said:

Ethanol only harms fuel systems when they sit. If you use it in whatever concentration, it will be fine as long as you constantly use it. The problems come in while storing. The alcohol in Ethanol fuels attract water- very quickly. As long as you keep using it, it burns up without issue. When it sits, it accumulates water and the water separates and sits on the metal, then quickly corrodes it.

Flex fuel vehicles have fuel system components comprised of plastic and metals with corrosion-resistant coatings.

Case in point: My Hayabusa tank is now a wall ornament because it sat for 9 months with ethanol in it while I was TDY in Germany. I had treated it, but my brother drove it and refilled the tank without treating it. When I got back, I went for a short ride. I felt something cold on my leg. It was fuel dripping from the underside of the tank. I slid my finger up under there to see where it was coming from and my finger went right through the bottom of the tank. A few gallons of fuel came gushing out. Fk ethanol!!

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You
Might as well start using redline if im going to like your post more often. Just makes more sense.

Hemi395 said:

My UOA from over the winter with many cold starts and short trips showed no water dilution in the oil. My oil temp never went over 205 the whole oil run. I'm not sure it needs to get to exactly 212* to evaporate the moisture in the oil...

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EXACTLY!!!

At what temp does the water start evaporating. Very very low. You do not have to reach boiling point of water with your oil temperature to remove the water.. think about how easily water evaporates off of anything that is not in an engine. As long as there is ventilation as ramnewbi stated (PCV) then the water in your oil can evaporate at a measly 100 degrees.

Dont sweat 212 in the case of water

Now plating additives for example need to be in the 200 range to plate to their fullest extente

Most sludging problems in engines is due to lack of changing the oil or an inherent design flaw. No oil I know of has a warning on it to make sure it gets hot enough.

@Rampant are you using Amsoil MVATF in your trans? If so any difference over the ff?

Hemi395 said:

@Rampant are you using Amsoil MVATF in your trans? If so any difference over the ff?

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Nope, not yet. I still have to get the shift solenoid recall done, so I will after that.

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U&A said:

EXACTLY!!!

At what temp does the water start evaporating. Very very low. You do not have to reach boiling point of water with your oil temperature to remove the water.. think about how easily water evaporates off of anything that is not in an engine. As long as there is ventilation as ramnewbi stated (PCV) then the water in your oil can evaporate at a measly 100 degrees.

Dont sweat 212 in the case of water

Now plating additives for example need to be in the 200 range to plate to their fullest extente

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If this is true, why would anyone want (or need) a catch can?

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Rampant said:

Nope, not yet. I still have to get the shift solenoid recall done, so I will after that.

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Ah gotcha. I'm curious to see how that does in a RFE transmission

U&A said:

You
Might as well start using redline if im going to like your post more often. Just makes more sense.

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I've already said I'd love to use a RL fancy funnel... that's about as close as you'll get. I have used RL water wetter... before Amsoil came out with their version of the surfactant.

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Hemi395 said:

Ah gotcha. I'm curious to see how that does in a RFE transmission

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Well if I find out the new Ram 2500 will have an 8 or 10 speed before I get the recall on mine done, I won't be putting anything in it.

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Hemi395 said:

Most sludging problems in engines is due to lack of changing the oil or an inherent design flaw. No oil I know of has a warning on it to make sure it gets hot enough.

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No warning YET. The labels are probably printed in the midwest, where common sense prevails haha

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Unfortunately, I installed a Pedal Commander right after my solenoid recall fix. So I'm attributing the improved shifting to the PC..

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BlkZrx said:

Unfortunately, I installed a Pedal Commander right after my solenoid recall fix. So I'm attributing the improved shifting to the PC..

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I noticed that with my PC as well. Downshifts are much better times and there's much less engine lugging

Rampant said:

If this is true, why would anyone want (or need) a catch can?

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The catch can catches much more than water, just smell it.

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Ramnewbie said:

The catch can catches much more than water, just smell it.

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I've never had one.

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Rampant said:

I've never had one.

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Contents looks like black coffee, has a slippery oily feeling to touch, smells like weak gas. I think it was RLK that said he tried to ignite it to see if it would burn and it wouldn't burn.

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Rampant said:

If this is true, why would anyone want (or need) a catch can?

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Catch cans original intent is to catch the oil that was originally directed into the air fuel mixture befor combustion. Water just gets collected too.

Yes, I'm not a tomfool... I know what CCs are and what they are for. I just haven't had my *********** around one or my muffsniffer above one haha.

The whole subject today was to get you guys to come up with a bulletproof explanation for the relationship between water/condensation and oil in engines. No one mentioned the fact that esters are inherently hydrophilic, while PAOs and mineral oils are hydrophobic. If I ran an ester based oil, I'd be more concerned about water. That's one big reason I wouldn't run it in an engine that's not readily capable of putting a cc to use.

On the rare occasion that I use my truck as a grocery getter, the oil temp runs between 206 and 212 on average. All stock. What I was looking for was for someone to point out that the oil temp sensor dashpot is actually external and exposed to outside air temps. I don't believe for a second that the oil in the engine is as cool as the sensor reports. It's also nowhere near where combustion occurs.

Corey was the closest because sludge usually forms in areas where there is no flow or very slow flow. Design deficiency. Kind of like if you graded your property incorrectly and ended up with standing water every time in rained. That water gets stinky and nasty. Same principle as sludge formation.

So it goes back to prevention. How do you prevent it from ever getting into the crankcase to begin with? The answer is, you can't. But, you can do a few things to minimize it's effect: 1. Don't start the engine unless you're going to run it up to operating temp. 2. Don't run the oil longer than it was designed to protect. 3. And probably the most important... do NOT use a hydrophilic oil... one that attracts water, such as ester based! LOL

Hey, if you've got a thing for "*******" oil I won't hold it against you