Synthetic Oil

U&A · Nov 29, 2018

tjfdesmo said:
Just sayin'

View attachment 147816

Crap,

I got to hurry up and get mine in first!

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huntergreen · Nov 29, 2018

Zack02 said:
Well folks, believe it or not, I've been lurking a long time and read all 2622 pages of this thing. Thank you for all of the knowledge and information you have shared.

Just thought it was time for me to share my two cents. I bought this truck from my neighbor, when he was upgrading to a big horn. Prior to getting it, we changed the oil every time he was at "10% left" on the EVIC and he used the cheapest syn. 5w30/filter combo he could get at the store that day. He/I tow bobcats, tractors, etc in the spring-fall and snow plow in the winter. It is a work truck and is treated like a work truck. His first 55k miles were mostly city, my 20k have mostly been highway, but both still would count as "mixed."

2014, 2500
Miles: 75,***
Idle: 639 Hrs
Drive: 2484 Hrs
Idle RPMs: 650

Oil change 1: PUP (x4) 0w40, (x3) 5w20 (June '17), Approx 8,000 miles, EVIC 10%
Oil change 2: Red line 5w30 (Jan '18), Approx 6,000 miles, EVIC ~30%
Oil change 3: PUP (x3) 0w40, (x4) 5w20 (June '18), Currently @60% Approx 4,000 miles
RP filter at every change

Prior to the PUP my hemi tick was terrible, like average person would notice (why he sold it to me cheap). The PUP quieted it down more to the "I know what a hemi tick is, and if I listen for it, I can still hear it." The average person wouldn't notice it, but could hear it if you pointed it out. Redline cause NO CHANGE in the tick in my truck for the first 5k miles. After that, it definitely came back, no where as bad as before, but much louder than the PUP, especially cold start ups. At a little over 6k, I dumped it and went back to the PUP. At this point today, my engine sounds like his new big horn with the rare chatter at a cold start (approx 5 seconds, sitting 8+ hours).

I don't think anything is wrong with Redline, I have ran it for years in my Jeeps with nothing but exceptional results. I just personally think it just preformed poorly in a HD situation. The only difference the RL would have had over the PUP, would have been the stop/go of plowing.

Thanks for sharing. I think yours is an example of, not all hemis are created equal.

huntergreen · Nov 29, 2018

Burla said:
Thought for the day, is oil pressure the main indicator of metal protection?

As with many complicated issues, I think it is part of the equation. How significant, I'm not sure.

Burla · Nov 29, 2018

In a typical (stock) passenger car engine, the oil pressure is usually between 30 and 40 psi. And that’s sufficient to provide adequate lubrication to the various moving components. But most high performance (or race) engines require 50-60 psi or more for proper lubrication.

I would say Hemi's are definitely in need of the 50-60psi. Interesting read although not necessarily white paperish.

U&A · Nov 29, 2018

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tsielski · Nov 29, 2018

25 degrees and you are changing oil in the dark outside; sounds like me in my younger days. Good on ya!

Hemi395 · Nov 29, 2018

U&A said:
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How many miles on that oil? Might be the camera but that looks pretty dirty...

U&A · Nov 29, 2018

Hemi395 said:
How many miles on that oil? Might be the camera but that looks pretty dirty...

1300 miles.

It is dark for sure

And if anyone asks why I’m changing it so soon it’s because I don’t like The coldstart clatter I get with this oil periodically. When I used 10W-40 it never happened until the very end of the oil change interval.

Figured it wouldn’t hurt to try this otherwise I’m going back to 10 W 40

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U&A · Nov 29, 2018

Beer run!

Warm idle psi in park is a bit higher with 5W 40. Identical to my idle psi when I ran 10W-40.

So warm idle PSI’s in my truck

PUP 0w40 29-30
Amsoil 0w40 30
Redline 0w40. 32
Redline 10w40 34
Redline 5w40 34

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Rampant · Nov 29, 2018

Hemi395 said:
Don't know if its the main indicator, but I've always thought the more oil pressure the better. The higher pressure helps the oil get to the upper part of the engine quicker also...

Keep Pascal's law in mind. Also, as U&A said, pressure is the result of resistance to flow. As Burla said, too much or not enough are bad. Each engine is different, but an average daily driver can be anywhere from the high 20s to 50ish warmed up at idle.

Because the crankcase is not a truly 'closed system', the oil pressure indication we read is actually the one point in the system that has the most resistance (most likely in the main bearing journals). Because fluid is not compressible, that pressure transmits equally in all directions, but depends where the pressure is read in this case. If it were a truly closed system, you could put a direct reading gauge in your valve cover or oil pan and get the same indicated pressure. You still do get oil to the valve train, but pressure (and flow) has severely diminished by that point because of atmospheric exposure through the PCV system.

Think about it in the simple terms of a garden hose. Partially kink the hose and install a gauge before and after the kink... the pressure reading between the spigot and kink is in the bearing journals within the block and the pressure indication after the kink is similar to that in the valve train. So... do you really want more pressure? More flow/less pressure would actually aid in getting the oil to the upper engine components "faster". That is why you want thinner oil when it is cold... less resistance to flow than thicker oil. If you partially kink the hose before you turn the spigot on, does the water come out the end sooner and does more water come out the end when you turn the spigot on? Nope, it creates more resistance (pressure) and lessens the flow. Fluid velocity is a whole other related discussion, but may be one worth having.

Burla · Nov 29, 2018

U&A said:
Beer run!

Warm idle psi in park is a bit higher with 5W 40. Identical to my idle psi when I ran 10W-40.

So warm idle PSI’s in my truck

PUP 0w40 29-30
Amsoil 0w40 30
Redline 0w40. 32
Redline 10w40 34
Redline 5w40 34

Cool, and cool you keep track of this, good tip for someone trying to quiet that tick. According to the stat sheet that 5w40 redline should be better then the 10w40. We will see what the real world will have to say.

U&A · Nov 29, 2018

Burla said:
Cool, and cool you keep track of this, good tip for someone trying to quiet that tick. According to the stat sheet that 5w40 redline should be better then the 10w40. We will see what the real world will have to say.

I was very pleased with the 10w40. I just cant run that in the winter. Hopefully 5w40 is at least equally as pleasing then i may have a songs viscosity i can run summer and winter

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Burla · Nov 29, 2018

conundrum if the 5w40 redline doesn't work out, might have to search around.

Ramnewbie · Nov 29, 2018

Burla said:
conundrum if the 5w40 redline doesn't work out, might have to search around.

WTF, you gonna put that Japan stuff in you're hemi? @Burla, have you lost you're mind?

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Burla · Nov 29, 2018

That is a high Moly oil, and more to the point I was thinking about Kyle's conundrum. He can't run 10w40 Redline in the winter, maybe look at drum role, 0w50. It would probably be stable for like .0001 miles after starting I bet.

Ramnewbie · Nov 29, 2018

Burla said:
That is a high Moly oil, and more to the point I was thinking about Kyle's conundrum. He can't run 10w40 Redline in the winter, maybe look at drum role, 0w50. It would probably be stable for like .0001 miles after starting I bet.

LOL, I was just picking at ya.

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Burla · Nov 29, 2018

nah, say it aint so.

R.L.K. · Nov 30, 2018

Zack02 said:
Well folks, believe it or not, I've been lurking a long time and read all 2622 pages of this thing. Thank you for all of the knowledge and information you have shared.

Just thought it was time for me to share my two cents. I bought this truck from my neighbor, when he was upgrading to a big horn. Prior to getting it, we changed the oil every time he was at "10% left" on the EVIC and he used the cheapest syn. 5w30/filter combo he could get at the store that day. He/I tow bobcats, tractors, etc in the spring-fall and snow plow in the winter. It is a work truck and is treated like a work truck. His first 55k miles were mostly city, my 20k have mostly been highway, but both still would count as "mixed."

2014, 2500
Miles: 75,***
Idle: 639 Hrs
Drive: 2484 Hrs
Idle RPMs: 650

Oil change 1: PUP (x4) 0w40, (x3) 5w20 (June '17), Approx 8,000 miles, EVIC 10%
Oil change 2: Red line 5w30 (Jan '18), Approx 6,000 miles, EVIC ~30%
Oil change 3: PUP (x3) 0w40, (x4) 5w20 (June '18), Currently @60% Approx 4,000 miles
RP filter at every change

Prior to the PUP my hemi tick was terrible, like average person would notice (why he sold it to me cheap). The PUP quieted it down more to the "I know what a hemi tick is, and if I listen for it, I can still hear it." The average person wouldn't notice it, but could hear it if you pointed it out. Redline cause NO CHANGE in the tick in my truck for the first 5k miles. After that, it definitely came back, no where as bad as before, but much louder than the PUP, especially cold start ups. At a little over 6k, I dumped it and went back to the PUP. At this point today, my engine sounds like his new big horn with the rare chatter at a cold start (approx 5 seconds, sitting 8+ hours).

I don't think anything is wrong with Redline, I have ran it for years in my Jeeps with nothing but exceptional results. I just personally think it just preformed poorly in a HD situation. The only difference the RL would have had over the PUP, would have been the stop/go of plowing.

Welcome to the thread sir and I do apologise ......as I owe you one if you have read every post ....pretty sure I've had several I'd like to take back [emoji16][emoji16]

Again WELCOME !

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R.L.K. · Nov 30, 2018

U&A said:
Truck says 25° and I’m thinking about going out to dump my 0w40 and put in the redline 5w40.

[emoji21]

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Why is there thinking involved here ???? Ha ha ha , just kidding , but 5W -40 REDLINE is obviously better than 0W - Anything ...[emoji1303][emoji1303]

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R.L.K. · Nov 30, 2018

Burla said:
Yeah I don't have any answers on this one, but I will say this, having a 5w20 cure a tick left by the previous 5w20, leads me to think there is more involved then oil pressure. And one thing I'm sure of, there has to be a "perfect" oil pressure like a perfect viscosity. Too low is bad, to high is equally bad.

Hmm , I'm thinking pretty much any wt Redline is the perfect oil pressure ...[emoji1303][emoji1303]

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Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

Castrol Syntec/Edge

Royal Purple

AMSOil

Valvoline Synpower

Mobil 1

Other

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