'16 Big Horn - Adding Sub - Need some help

guarj17 · Sep 15, 2017

Hey all,

First off, I have researched multiple things trying to find an answer for my question, and either people want different things or they are replacing multiple speakers and such. If anyone knows a link that explains exactly my situation, please let me know.

I have a '16 Big Horn with the 8.4 uConnect head unit. Trying to figure out what my system currently is, and what I need to do to successfully install an aftermarket amp/sub under my back seat. From what I have read, if I had an Alpine system it would say it on the dash, which it doesn't, which leads me to believe that I have the basic system with no amp or sub and the speakers are powered from the head unit. I had a Jeep before this with a stock amp that I just tapped into in the back which was super easy once I had a wiring diagram.

I'm not too comfortable taking apart the dash and running my wires through everything. I'm good with wires, not so much interior panels lol. Is there any easier way to accomplish my goal? I want to put the amp under my driver's seat, and my sub under my driver side back seat.

Any help/advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

WilliamS · Sep 15, 2017

If you have a center speaker you have alpine, no center no alpine. You can tap into the rear door speaker wires under the trim plates to keep you from ripping the dash apart.

guarj17 · Sep 15, 2017

Wow you already lost me lmao, center speaker? Where would it be?

Dodge This · Sep 15, 2017

guarj17 said:
Wow you already lost me lmao, center speaker? Where would it be?

It would be in the center of the dash and it would say Alpine on it. There is an empty place for a speaker even on stock radio's, so it can be kinda confusing. You would also have speaker pods in the headliner above the back seats.

If you had an Alpine system, you'd already have a sub, so I think it's safe to assume that you don't.

Here is a aftermarket sub box and speaker that is made just for your truck.

JL Audio Stealthbox

You'll need to get an amp to power it. Here's a excellent compact amp that would help you save space and is perfect for that sub.

JL Audio JX250/1D

If you're not comfortable tearing off door panels and such, then you'll probably want to get all of it professionally installed.

WilliamS · Sep 15, 2017

in the center of the dash, you likely have a little what looks like a primer bulb up by the windshield offset to the passenger side. Its on a plastic insert where the center speaker would be.

I dont want to be crass or rude, but if center speaker threw you off I might suggest having someone do this install for you. Its pretty easy but you are dealing with a lot of electronics that do not take kindly to wrong wires being cut, crossed, or shorted out. Im not saying you are not capable as I do not know you personally but on trucks that are ran 100% by computers sometimes taking the safe route is the right way to go.

guarj17 · Sep 15, 2017

WilliamS:
That's alright I'm aware it was a stupid question, I've done all sound/light wiring and systems in all my previous vehicles myself so I'm not exactly a newbie at this, I just don't have the Alpine system and I guess haven't been in any vehicles with it so I didn't know where or what you were referring to.

Dodge This:
Yea I definitely don't have the Alpine system then. Thank you for the input and advice. I actually already have an amp I will be using so I'm okay there, and that speaker/box combo is a bit expensive lol.

I found a 12" 500w shallow sub on sale (knockoff brand for now) and a 12" shallow custom box for our trucks (DODGE RAM QUAD CREW CAB SINGLE 12" SUBWOOFER ENCLOSURE SUB BOX 2002-2015 | eBay).

I haven't taken off any trim panels or anything to that sort yet, considering I have about a week or two until the box arrives. As long as I know I can go off the speaker in the rear and find a wiring diagram somewhere I think I'll be alright.

KCaudill · Sep 15, 2017

Easy install for amps to your system. You will need to pull the radio and place this interface between the truck harness and RA3 radio. It will give you the RCA output from the radio and the remote turn on lead. It will have the front rear and sub outputs

AmpPRO Amplifier Interface Module

WilliamS · Sep 15, 2017

KCaudill said:
Easy install for amps to your system. You will need to pull the radio and place this interface between the truck harness and RA3 radio. It will give you the RCA output from the radio and the remote turn on lead. It will have the front rear and sub outputs

AmpPRO Amplifier Interface Module

Thats for amplified trucks

guarj17 · Sep 18, 2017

I think i'm all set just want to make sure if one more thing. For my remote, my rear driver door window switch should have a constant power wire right? Constant as in when the truck is on. This would be ideal because the window switches dont work with remote start so my amp wont turn on until i get in and flip the key. Am i correct? If so i just need to find my wiring diagram. It would be perfect because i already have full access to the wires behind my seat belt panel

WilliamS · Sep 18, 2017

guarj17 said:
I think i'm all set just want to make sure if one more thing. For my remote, my rear driver door window switch should have a constant power wire right? Constant as in when the truck is on. This would be ideal because the window switches dont work with remote start so my amp wont turn on until i get in and flip the key. Am i correct? If so i just need to find my wiring diagram. It would be perfect because i already have full access to the wires behind my seat belt panel

If you have a tester probe the harness under the driver seat or in the drivers kick panel for a switched power source. Window switches are can-bus controlled now not direct power, so if it did have voltage it wouldn't have the 1 amp to get the amp turned on. I still recommend the 12v cigarette lighter as it is switched and has tons of headroom for the amp draw. In all situations it is better to run a new fused/relayed circuit but if you are going to tap a circuit tap into a robust one.

guarj17 · Sep 18, 2017

Hm, okay. Well I do have a cigarette lighter in the back bottom of my center console facing towards the back seats. I'll just have to figure out how to get behind it. Should it just pull out? Maybe pull it out, drill through the side of the console, run my wires through the side, tap in, and push the lighter back in so all the wires stay hidden?

WilliamS · Sep 18, 2017

You can pull the console apart from the top to get to it. Double check with a tester to make sure its switched. Then you can push/pull the wire under the console under the driver or passenger seat, whichever side you want.

guarj17 · Sep 19, 2017

Well good news, I'm all hooked up and ready to go. Ran all my wires and tested an old sub because I'm still waiting on my custom box to come in at the end of the week. I was with a buddy when I went to go pull out the center console from above and he told me the rear panel where the cigarette lighter is is just held on by body clips and it popped right off lol. So the install and wiring was much easier than expected. Once the box comes in I'll finish everything up, tune, and make it look clean. Thanks for the help guys!

WilliamS · Sep 19, 2017

guarj17 said:
Well good news, I'm all hooked up and ready to go. Ran all my wires and tested an old sub because I'm still waiting on my custom box to come in at the end of the week. I was with a buddy when I went to go pull out the center console from above and he told me the rear panel where the cigarette lighter is is just held on by body clips and it popped right off lol. So the install and wiring was much easier than expected. Once the box comes in I'll finish everything up, tune, and make it look clean. Thanks for the help guys!

gonna need some pics of where you ran everything. always like seeing setups and builds. also never knew that the rear panel pops off like that.

guarj17 · Sep 19, 2017

Yep will definitely take some once I get it all cleaned up. Kind of just ran everything roughly to test and make sure it all worked out. I wasn't sure if the amp was good so had to test it to know if I needed one.

blackbetty14 · Sep 19, 2017

I hope you ran the correct gauge wire with fuse from the battery.

What's the specs on the system? Amp and sub?

I'm running a pioneer d class 1600w amp and a pioneer 12" shallow sub with $50 ebay sub box. Given the power levels 300-500w RMs at 2-4ohm I ran 4 gauge welding wire (real USA true gage pure copper fine strand stuff) with a 80amp buss resettable circuit breaker. It's plenty loud and I have it on a pretty low setting.

I will warn you that shallow subs are much wider than standard subs. I had to add a 2nd 3/4" MDF board to the top of the box so the sub would clear the inside not to mention it's really 13" or 13.25" vs 12" hole even tho it's a 12" sub.

But the sub was only $80 new and the amp was only $100 so I spent about $275 in the whole system and it works too well lol.

guarj17 · Sep 20, 2017

I think that is the exact box that I ordered on ebay. I ran 4 gauge wire from battery. I had a X500D amp laying around so I am using that with a 200w RMS sub. I will probably end up upgrading the amp/sub, the sub was on sale for $40 so I figured why not hook it up lol. Maybe it will be enough, maybe I'll want louder, we'll see.

blackbetty14 · Sep 20, 2017

Don't forget your going to need seat spacers. 3/4" will also let you do the flip down back seat mod.

guarj17 · Sep 21, 2017

I actually id the back seat mod and wasn't a fan of it. Gave me no extra room at all so I put it back, I still have the spacers somewhere though, will put them in if I need to. I have a good amount of room though because I took out the hard cab liner thing. You think I'll need more space?

guarj17 · Sep 26, 2017

Well blackbetty you were right, got the box yesterday and had to put spacers back in to give the box some room.

Got everything hooked up and it's all working and sounds alright, but I don't think it's performing as it should. I'm trying to figure out if I don't have it wired correctly or if I am going to need a different sub. I didn't realize until yesterday that I bought a dual voice coil sub, so I had to bridge it.

The amp I have is a MTX x500D: (picture attached)
Amplifier Class: D
Number of Channels: 1 - Mono
Total Peak Power Output: 1500 watts
Total RMS Power Output: 500 watts

Right now I have it wires just like the picture attached, one (+) and one (-) running off the amp to the box. I have these running to the sub on opposite (+)'s and (-)'s and then have the subwoofer bridged with a wire from the other (+) to the other (-).

Is this how it should be wired?
If not, what do I need to do to get optimal performance?
If so, what type of specs should I be looking for on a new subwoofer that will work well with this amp?

Thanks for the help guys!

'16 Big Horn - Adding Sub - Need some help

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