Questions about Audio control LC2i

lokal907ryder · Mar 31, 2016

I have a cheap PAC LOC and I'm pretty sure its killing my sound so I'm looking at upgrading to the audio control LC2i and I had some questions, I read that it auto senses the signal from the speakers when they turn on to run a remote out to the amp, is anyone using this feature and does it work like you hoped? also I see there's a lot of adjustments on the unit, how does one go about setting them or should I have a pro at a local shop do that? lastly what's the difference in the optional bass knob for the LC2i VS the one on my amp? should I get the knob or just use the one on my amp?

reek · Mar 31, 2016

I have the lc6i, similar function. I use the signal sensing function. works fine. used it in my previous vehicle as well. down side with my 8.4 head unit, it must send 'signal' through the speaker wires when you open the door. my amps turn on despite the fact there's no music on. considering you can never turn the head unit off, makes sense.

most of the adjustments are straight forward. no need to open up the unit and adjust the jumpers as the instruction might say, comes pre set for standard use. not sure if LC2i has that option.

I've always used bass control through the sub amp so can't comment on the optional bass control.

hope that helps

baum · Apr 1, 2016

reek said:
I have the lc6i, similar function. I use the signal sensing function. works fine. used it in my previous vehicle as well. down side with my 8.4 head unit, it must send 'signal' through the speaker wires when you open the door. my amps turn on despite the fact there's no music on. considering you can never turn the head unit off, makes sense.

most of the adjustments are straight forward. no need to open up the unit and adjust the jumpers as the instruction might say, comes pre set for standard use. not sure if LC2i has that option.

I've always used bass control through the sub amp so can't comment on the optional bass control.

hope that helps

its not just the 8.4 that does that. i have the 5.0 in my dd my '15 chrysler 200 and i used a signal sensing amp on high level and it turns on for a few minutes as soon as i unlock the car.

Nocturnalsst · Apr 1, 2016

I was under the impression that the lc6i required you to run an external volume knob to control volume. How does the sub/head unit volume get around that issue? I would think if that were the case the 2i volume would never match system volume.

I am looking at doing the 8i for my 15 ram and am full of questions about the many hurdles, but i will save al those for another thread

Rick Bobby · Apr 7, 2016

I just installed a LC2i last weekend. The turn on signal for the amp works great. You still have to run a power wire to it. Just run it to the battery with the amp power cable. You need a 1 amp inline fuse at the end. Put some 1/2'' tech flex over it before you feed it through the firewall. It's really a cake job. I have mine wired into the rear speakers, it sounds great. I have a Rockford 600x4 going to components in the doors and I'll bridge the rear channels to a sub when I get it. Overall there is no detectable sound or turn on pop with it. I'm happy so far.

Rick Bobby · Apr 7, 2016

One thing to be remember, the hands free phone audio comes out on the front channel, none on the rear channel. And if you don't have the factory connector hooked up to the door speaker you will lose the dash speaker. I'm pretty sure you can put a resistor in the connector to fix that, I'll update when I get around to it.

jackblackjeet · Apr 24, 2016

Nocturnalsst said:
I was under the impression that the lc6i required you to run an external volume knob to control volume. How does the sub/head unit volume get around that issue? I would think if that were the case the 2i volume would never match system volume.

I am looking at doing the 8i for my 15 ram and am full of questions about the many hurdles, but i will save al those for another thread

I think that people who are upgrading factory premium systems have to come up with volume workarounds. If you are adding the audio codes to upgrade the basic audio packages then your head unit volume will still work.

reek · Apr 25, 2016

Nocturnalsst said:
I was under the impression that the lc6i required you to run an external volume knob to control volume. How does the sub/head unit volume get around that issue? I would think if that were the case the 2i volume would never match system volume.

I am looking at doing the 8i for my 15 ram and am full of questions about the many hurdles, but i will save al those for another thread

the LC6i doesn't need volume knob. there's adjusting knobs on the unit to help match the output level that goes to your amp. then you can use the gain on your amp to match levels as well. I have my dash speakers running off the head unit and I've level matched my front door, rear door and sub to the dash through mostly the amp gain. All of the out put level knobs on my LC6i are set at equal levels.

reek · Apr 25, 2016

Rick Bobby said:
One thing to be remember, the hands free phone audio comes out on the front channel, none on the rear channel. And if you don't have the factory connector hooked up to the door speaker you will lose the dash speaker. I'm pretty sure you can put a resistor in the connector to fix that, I'll update when I get around to it.

you might be over thinking things. I've never worried about losing any hands free on my 2014 1500 with the 5.0 as well as my 2015 2500 with the 8.4.

Solej · Aug 27, 2016

Rick Bobby said:
I just installed a LC2i last weekend. The turn on signal for the amp works great. You still have to run a power wire to it. Just run it to the battery with the amp power cable. You need a 1 amp inline fuse at the end. Put some 1/2'' tech flex over it before you feed it through the firewall. It's really a cake job. I have mine wired into the rear speakers, it sounds great. I have a Rockford 600x4 going to components in the doors and I'll bridge the rear channels to a sub when I get it. Overall there is no detectable sound or turn on pop with it. I'm happy so far.

Where did you tap into your rear speakers to hookup your Lc2i ? What color are the speakers ?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

BadHabit2Break · Aug 28, 2016

I will be running the L6i also.

Make sure to set the Accubass on the LC2 unit. Basically it raises the bass when the OEM system is turning it down (to keep from blowing factory speakers). I wont be using the knob for the L6i, but will be using the one for my amp.

Like stated above, if you use the BT for phone calls, it will not sound right is you pull the signal from the rear speakers only.

Solej · Aug 28, 2016

I am installing a pair of subs using the LC2i, I do not have a factory subwoofer. Where would be the best place to grab my audio signal from ?

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BadHabit2Break · Aug 30, 2016

Solej said:
I am installing a pair of subs using the LC2i, I do not have a factory subwoofer. Where would be the best place to grab my audio signal from ?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

from rear door speakers.

hutlet10 · Sep 14, 2016

When getting signal from the rear speakers are you guys getting it before the speaker runs up the pillar between the front and rear seat or are you splicing into the signal right at the speaker. I was looking to go right at the speaker but then it doesn't seem like there is a way to feed the wire back into the truck as the only area has a connector that won't allow wires to be fed thru. Just looking for ideas as to how people did this thanks.

Rick Bobby · Sep 19, 2016

Has anyone else had this issue? I put component speakers in my doors with new wiring to the amp. This bypassed the factory speaker wiring so my dash speakers don't work. I've got the amp powering the components and a sub off of the rear speaker wires to the LC2i. It sounds great but I've lost the Bluetooth coming out of my front speakers. Anyone know the easiest way around that with the 5.0 ra2?

Rick Bobby · Sep 19, 2016

Rick Bobby · Sep 19, 2016

I understand the doors and dash are on a parallel circuit. I'm wondering if running a wire from the head unit front output directly to the dash speakers would fix this. I only need the front channel for phone calls. So I wonder if I should get a resistor to plug into the empty factory door speaker connection to complete the circuit and get my front dash speakers back, or does it make more sense to run a new wire from the head unit front speaker outputs to the dash speakers? Any help appreciated.

BadHabit2Break · Sep 19, 2016

Rick Bobby said:
I understand the doors and dash are on a parallel circuit. I'm wondering if running a wire from the head unit front output directly to the dash speakers would fix this. I only need the front channel for phone calls. So I wonder if I should get a resistor to plug into the empty factory door speaker connection to complete the circuit and get my front dash speakers back, or does it make more sense to run a new wire from the head unit front speaker outputs to the dash speakers? Any help appreciated.

Hook the dash speakers back up to the radio. They will not play as loud as the door speakers on the amp, but at least they still work with your BT for phone calls.

Ecofx86 · Apr 10, 2019

hutlet10 said:
When getting signal from the rear speakers are you guys getting it before the speaker runs up the pillar between the front and rear seat or are you splicing into the signal right at the speaker. I was looking to go right at the speaker but then it doesn't seem like there is a way to feed the wire back into the truck as the only area has a connector that won't allow wires to be fed thru. Just looking for ideas as to how people did this thanks.

when u say rear speakers... you talking about left rear and right rear? can you just use one side?

can u run a 4 channel amp rca from the mono block amp to get signal?

Questions about Audio control LC2i

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