sub and amp question

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hemi_hawk

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so I have a ram rt, and have been thinking about taking the factory plastic box out from behind the seats and making a box and putting two subs and an amp in my truck, please be advised, I KNOW NOTHING ABOUT AMPS SUBS AND BUILDING SUB BOXES.


with that said here are my questions, keep in mind my goal is to have an enjoyable fun project and just to get a decent sound, I am not trying to wake up harlem with my doors shaking, but I would like something that does hit a little.

my questions:

what wood do I build the box from ? 1/4 ply ?


I was thinking of 10 or 12" kickers and a kicker amp from Walmart, I am thinking I will be more then satisfied with that set up, I am open to suggestions but as you can see I am not looking to break the bank, would the kickers and the amp hook up to my factory head ?


next question is what do I need to hook it up and how would you run the wires ? under the center console ?

how many amps should can my head handle ? what should I look for max ? 1000 ? 500 ?
 

Eestee70

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Depending on your budget you will need an LOC or signal processor to convert your speaker wires into RCA preouts so you can add an amp or amps. When making a sub box there are many factors that play into the type and size box you will need. Each subwoofer manufacturer has recommended size enclosures for sealed or ported boxes, but you will want to use minimum 3/4 thick MDF not plywood, and interior bracing to reduce box flex. plan your work this will help eliminate some headaches along your upgrade.

Your head unit will not be connected directly to amps. Once you add the LOC or processor this is what gives your amp its power.
 
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hemi_hawk

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Depending on your budget you will need an LOC or signal processor to convert your speaker wires into RCA preouts so you can add an amp or amps. When making a sub box there are many factors that play into the type and size box you will need. Each subwoofer manufacturer has recommended size enclosures for sealed or ported boxes, but you will want to use minimum 3/4 thick MDF not plywood, and interior bracing to reduce box flex. plan your work this will help eliminate some headaches along your upgrade.

Your head unit will not be connected directly to amps. Once you add the LOC or processor this is what gives your amp its power.

what is a loc ?
 

Eestee70

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Line out converter. It converts speaker level inputs to preouts so you can add amps
 

Eestee70

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You wouldn't be able to use just the factory head unit to run the subs. You will need to use an LOC to get the signal to your amps. Are you changing the speakers too or just adding subs?
 
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hemi_hawk

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You wouldn't be able to use just the factory head unit to run the subs. You will need to use an LOC to get the signal to your amps. Are you changing the speakers too or just adding subs?


I just want to toss in subs, my rt has the alpine audio system, I am thinking about the subs with amps in the sides of them, this seems like a pretty slick choice, and I am open to other brands then kicker now also. but I don't want to spend 300 bucks per unit and I want to put two in the truck
 

baum

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that amp you listed above is DIRTY power and its "1500 watts" is really only like 250-300 maybe.

you get what you pay for. what kind of sound are you trying to get? in a perfect setup you match the RMS handling of the subs with the rms handling of the amp. ex if you have 2 200 watt rms subs you get a 400 watt rms amp.

Like greygoose said if you have an amp with high level input you dont need a LOC. also most newer amps have technology that when they get signal on their high level inputs it turns the amp on so no need for a remote turn on.

as for what to build a box out of would be a min 3/4" MDF. that is what most of the boxes you see at a store are made of.
 
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hemi_hawk

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that amp you listed above is DIRTY power and its "1500 watts" is really only like 250-300 maybe.

you get what you pay for. what kind of sound are you trying to get? in a perfect setup you match the RMS handling of the subs with the rms handling of the amp. ex if you have 2 200 watt rms subs you get a 400 watt rms amp.

Like greygoose said if you have an amp with high level input you dont need a LOC. also most newer amps have technology that when they get signal on their high level inputs it turns the amp on so no need for a remote turn on.

as for what to build a box out of would be a min 3/4" MDF. that is what most of the boxes you see at a store are made of.






so would this be ok then for my single cab rt ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kicker-43TC...ash=item5b26af600c:g:A~QAAOSwmLlX20Xm&vxp=mtr


I am looking for something that plays rock music good and when need be can sound like harlem on wheels
 

baum

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LOl NO if you want an amp that is terrible. companies like that name their equipment close to the name brands so people get the cheap ones not knowing what they got rockville?? rockford

IMO do the kicker DX amp like Grey recommended
KICKER | 43DX250.1 Amplifier

and some kicker comp subs like these
12" Comp Subwoofer - 4 Ohm SVC | KICKER®

1-12" will be plenty of bass in a reg cab truck.
 

adrianp89

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That Kicker box is getting great reviews, however choose a different amp.
 

Graygoose

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The RT sub with the passive is amazing, we've done several installs with them, sound amazing with 300-500 watts.
The DX amps will do great power.
 

00R/T

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Hmm, this is a good thread. I picked up a Hideaway but haven't installed it yet. I don't know if I'll be happy with it and don't want to have to do it over again.

My days of crazy systems are over, but I'm coming from a 10w6v2 in my old Grand Cherokee.
 
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hemi_hawk

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once I get that comp rt kit ill report back, I guess one 12 will have to do ( for now ) hahahahaha
 
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