Nope, my bad, that was for the engine. Ok, trans I've done a couple times, so:
1. Get it where you are going to work on it, as level as possible.
2. Transmission jack will be your friend, I got a decent one from Harbor Freight. These ******* are HEAVY, even when empty. I used to bench press 904's and 727's into my old cars...ain't happening with these things...
3. Jack up front end or if you have it on ramps already. You want it high enough to get the trans out but low enough you can still get to the bellhousing bolts up top if need be. Set emergency brake and/or wheel chocks for safety.
4. Put trans in neutral. Disconnect the battery.
5. Mark driveshaft to axle so it goes back on the way it came off. If you have 4x4, do this with front one as well (from transfer case).
6. Disconnect driveshaft(s).
7. Drain fluid. Not an absolute necessity, but will make it lighter.
8. Disconnect all wiring plugs. You will also need to separate the harness from the top of the trans, it has pop in wire looms, these usually just pull out. Disconnect the trans cooler lines. These have flare nuts at the trans end. Disconnect shifter cable.
9. Set trans jack under trans pan. Hopefully you got a good one with a strap that goes over top of the trans.
10. Unbolt cross member under back of engine (4 through bolts, trans will not clear with this in place) and unbolt trans mount cross member, this way it just comes off with the trans.
11. Remove engine to trans brace.
12. Remove torque converter access plate. Unbolt TC bolts, spin engine around to access each one. You will need a large socket on the crank to keep the engine from spinning while you loosen the TC bolts.
13. Unbolt trans to engine bellhousing bolts.
14. Commence to wiggling, as they don't like to come apart right away. It will though, sometimes needs a little convincing/prying.
15. Once it's free, lower it down. If you don't have the truck high enough, you will have to take the trans off of the jack to slide it out. If you have a lift this is a moot point lol.
16. Once trans is out from under, transfer the mount/cross member to the new trans.
Should look like this:
LABEL & BAG EVERYTHING!
At this point, if you have a good replacement torque converter mate it to the trans if it isn't already. This is a 2 stage engagement, you should feel it kinda click in/seat 2 times. If not the snout will stick out too far and you won't be able to bolt it back in. Same goes for an aftermarket TC if you feel like doing so. If the TC doesn't already have fluid in it (i.e. it's brand new/remanned), put it on the floor snout up and fill it with as much ATF+4 as it will take. This will cut down on the time it takes to fill it up when you start it.
17. Reverse all the previous steps.
18. Put a little bit of ATF+4 on the rear driveshaft yoke before you insert it into the trans so as not to damage the seal.
19. Once everything is together, check everything again. Then lower the truck.
20. Fill up trans to full line. Start it. Let it run for a few minutes to give it a chance to finish filling up the converter. Check it while it's running, you will see the level drop. Top off as necessary. FSM has the amount you'll need.
21. While running, look underneath to check for leaks, especially around the cooler lines.
22. Once at the proper level and warmed up, don't drive it (unless you absolutely have to or you're going to the place to do the quick learn). You need to perform a quick learn so it resets the CVI and trans portion of the computer doesn't try to destroy the trans you just put in. You will either need a dealer or a friend with a StarScan. Once this is done, you can enjoy.
I'm sure I've missed a step or two, so I also recommend thoroughly reading the transmission removal section in the FSM:
2006 Dodge Ram Factory Service Manual
You will need WinRAR if you don't already have it to unpack the .pdf
We're always here for questions.