New Spark Plugs at 30,000

[PCT]

You don't really need a write up. It is pretty easy. Just takes a little while because there are a lot of them and the rear ones on the drivers side are a little cramped. You will just need a 10mm to remove the coils and 5/8" spark plug socket and an extension for the plugs.


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HAHA i had a ford 6.0... Dont have to talk to me about heads

My spark plug socket doesnt fit, so i got my grinder out and grinded my socket all the way down to the nub and its perfect!

 

[R.L.K.]

You guys putting any high temp anti-sieize on your new plugs ?
And what are the torque specs ?

 

[adrianp89]

I have a very-late model 2013, how could I tell what type of plugs I have?

 

[Kidder]

You guys putting any high temp anti-sieize on your new plugs ?
And what are the torque specs ?

I put anti-sieze when I changed mine at around 30k miles. I snugged them but didn't crank them tight.

 

[jwheeler]

You guys putting any high temp anti-sieize on your new plugs ?
And what are the torque specs ?

Never, when I am using a good plug. You should not put anti-seize on the NGK plugs that belong in there.


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[R.L.K.]

Thanks guys , I usually don't use any so when I remove them the next time there's nothing falling in .

Edit , but if done using common sense it will help with the removal years down the road. Imho

 

[BlownGP]

Never, when I am using a good plug. You should not put anti-seize on the NGK plugs that belong in there.


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Yeah, I didn't on mine. I don't see the point. They ain't going no where.

 

[BlownGP]

Never, when I am using a good plug. You should not put anti-seize on the NGK plugs that belong in there.


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Yeah, I didn't on mine. I don't see the point.

 

[Casper]

My Ram (5.7 Hemi) is about to roll over 30,000 miles. And the dealer said I needed to change my spark plugs? Is anyone else changing theirs at this amount of miles? Is it necessary? And thinking about doing myself. Yes or No?

Look in your owner's manual. All 16 should be changed at that point. Ignore it at your own risk, but there have been plenty of long winded complaints about second hand Rams having no power and missing because they never received plug changes.

 

[sandawilliams]

My Ram (5.7 Hemi) is about to roll over 30,000 miles. And the dealer said I needed to change my spark plugs? Is anyone else changing theirs at this amount of miles? Is it necessary? And thinking about doing myself. Yes or No?

I changed my 2009 hemi at 35,000 miles. The original plugs looked brand new and the gaps were correct. Decided not to change them again for at least another 70,000 miles.

 

[Kotta390]

Putting anti-seize on your plugs whether they are the factory ones or not will not hurt anything.

 

[jwheeler]

Putting anti-seize on your plugs whether they are the factory ones or not will not hurt anything.

It sure can. Especially with people that don't know what they are doing. Anti-seize can cause them to very easily become over torqued and broken. If it's not needed, just don't put it on. I saw a bulletin from NGK a while back, stating exactly that.


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[PCT]

On the 4.7 13, isnt the lower set of plugs iridium?

I always anti sieze mine, i do hand tight and a half turn, haven't had an issue yet.. But for reference what is the torque spec?

 

[R.L.K.]

Nothing wrong with high temp anti-sieize, so long as you don't put it on too liberally, just a small amount . One must understand this makes the torque a wet / lubed tq which will easily allow the installer to overtorque the plugs . I've always just snug spark plugs , it's more of a feel thing instead of a specified torque value , once you bottom it out your crushing the seal , important not to crush it to much and over flatten the crush seal .

 

[Kotta390]

Nothing wrong with high temp anti-sieize, so long as you don't put it on too liberally, just a small amount . One must understand this makes the torque a wet / lubed tq which will easily a lows the installer to overtorque the plugs . I've always just snug spark plugs , it's more of a feel thing instead of a specified torque value , once you bottom it out your crushing the seal , important not to crush it to much and over flatten the cruch seal .

Exactly, and Jwheeler as stated above if you don't know that there is a wet and dry torque difference then you may not want to work on your own rig. Or you can use common sense which is not all that common apparently. Again it won't hurt to use anti seize.

 

[jwheeler]

Haha wet and dry torque specs? Tell me where you will find a "wet" torque spec for a spark plug on a Ram. I think you guys are over thinking it a little. All I'm saying is it is a wasted step. Not needed. Changed probably a thousand spark plugs on Rams and have had zero issue with them coming out.


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[novelmike]

I don't think the issue is them falling out. I think its more of making sure they come out, years later and without any problems.

 

[PCT]

i will always put a little coat on the threads with Anti-Seize. Also never look up torque specs, i have done plugs for a bit, always get them hand snug, then do a 1/2 or 3/4 turn and never hand any issues!

 

[GoldDot]

Spark plug manufacturers hate anti-seize and most plugs are designed not to stick in the head due special coatings. If your torquing your plugs reduce the value by 30% when using anti seize.

As mentioned there are additional risks that you take if you use the stuff. If I changed plugs for living there would be no benefit to use it. Only the possibility that I could contaminated the plug or strip the threads plus the additional time of calculating the new values.

There may be a benefit if you keep your car/truck long enough to minimize the possibility of a stuck plug. That being said a 30k plug does not stay in the head long enough to make this a concern IMO. 100 k plugs you may think want to think about a precise application of anti seize.

 

[R.L.K.]

Well said GoldDot.....

While I'm not opposed to using high temp anti-sieize, so long as it's applied precisely in small quantities and also utilizing common sense while tightening , I'm also not opposed to not using it , especially on 30k plugs .

As for jwheeler , I do believe his advice should be taken into consideration, looks like he does do this for a living .
Experience usually over rules in my books !


I believe the NGK Bulletin was written due to idiots applying to much anti-sieize and possibly the wrong type for the application. These same idiots are also probably severely over tightening the plugs .

With that said , I could see it either way . Precise application of the proper anti-sieize compound , combined with common sense tightening for extended use plugs , or nothing at all for short term use plugs .

Either way Common Sense MUST be applied .

Just my .02