How to Add Overhead Console

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Padre675

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Is any able to find the terminal pins to populate into the top half of the green connector? Or is everyone just splicing in or buying a harness from The Harness Connection?
 

GoldDot

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Adding Overhead Console

Is any able to find the terminal pins to populate into the top half of the green connector? Or is everyone just splicing in or buying a harness from The Harness Connection?


You can pop the pin from the bottom of the connector out, cut it off and splice in from there. Should only have to do that with one wire though. The other two you can splice from the harness that goes to the dome light.

No info on the pin out parts for the green connector though. You are going to have to splice wires no matter what unless you have the correct harness.
 
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Padre675

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You can pop the pin from the bottom of the connector out, cut it off and splice in from there. Should only have to do that with one wire though. The other two you can splice from the harness that goes to the dome light.

No info on the pin out parts for the green connector though. You are going to have to splice wires no matter what unless you have the correct harness.

They're Yesc/Kaizen connectors by Yazaki and the pins are either 7116-4100-02(20/22 AWG) or 7116-4101-02 (18 AWG).

Just can't find any that aren't required bulk order. Otherwise I guess I could go and buy the repair kit p/n 68057297AA, which comes with the connector 16 wires pinned crimp splices and heat shrink. But that's between $60 and $70.

I was really just wanting to have everything hooked up factory like.
 

coolemoff1

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overhead console install questions

i had the ra1 no overhead console no compass

purchased overhead with homelink and compass module per part number

i also have the factory headliner harness to make it all plug up etc

i have the lights in homelink buttons was told that means canbus is communicating with it
but i get zero notes in evic screen on homelink nothing shows up when i press any of the link buttons

1)do i need to get codes flashed for the evic to communicate with homelink
and for homelink to work
2)do i need to check fuse in #80 spot,will do that regardless tommorrow and check plug with meter to verify power
3)from what others are saying some are able to add it and it shows right up and starts working some are having to add from dealer codes in
4)does anyone know which color wires are the night illumination wires hot and ground for the 911 rear view mirror,as that will be easiest place to tap for led on at night operation in console

thanks ahead for anyone that guides me on this
 

SitKneelBend

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Check your part number for home link and tell me your model year.

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R.L.K.

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^^^^ what he said ^^^^ you may have a 2012 or older module. ..
 

coolemoff1

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2015 ram 2500 is what its going in yard says its a 2014 module and console panel
part number 68105822ab
 

R.L.K.

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You need the codes flashed CUN and CV2 ?
 
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SitKneelBend

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Don't know codes, but I have a list I'll check tomorrow...

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SitKneelBend

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FYI, it should work even though you can't see the prompts. The RF module has power.

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coolemoff1

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what would be the steps you would take to get it to show up in evic screen
 

coolemoff1

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missed last page let me know tommorrow im going to try program it to my doors tommorrow and see if it works
im not really concerned about it showing in evic screen but it would be nice if it would
 

Ricks Ram

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It should work but it might be hard to program it without seeing the prompts on the screen. Push the 1 and 3 buttons together to a few seconds to clear any old door codes. The correct sales code is CV2.
 

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Installed the Bracket and harness yesterday, going to cut the headliner today(ran out of time last night). Bracket was pretty easy. I pulled the entire headliner down because I was checking on some other things as well. I also installed the Uconnect Mirror and harness, so having the headliner down was a big help. Downside is you can't mount the bracket until you lift the headliner back up.

Installing the mirror harness made me wonder why everyone mentions to tape/glue the overhead console harness to the headliner and not use push mount zip ties like are used with the mirror harness. There are mounting holes going across the entire top front of the roof that would work. I found some that should work on mouser ( Push Mount Cable Ties ) as well as a few other types. Google "push mount tree type zip tie" and there's a 25 pack on amazon as well. It's basically a fir tree plug with a zip tie attached. I'm ordering some and will be dropping the headliner again to put them in when I get them.

I'll take pictures when I put in the push mount ties. As well as pictures today when I cut the headliner, since I know most people are scared of that part. I've got a template I worked out from measuring the bracket and console. I'll share that once I complete everything to make sure it worked out.
 

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*Edited with photo descriptions 13 Apr*

As promised, here are pictures from cutting the headliner. It really wasn't too bad. I started drawing out a template, and then realized it wouldn't work cuz I couldn't line it up with the bracket above the headliner.

So instead I used the retainer clips on the console for a basic idea of where they will be on the bracket above the headliner. The idea is to cut those out first, then open it up to for the rest of the console.

First I used the black inner piece to just kind of guess where the slots should be. Then I opened it up a little from the center until I found the retainer slots. Once you've got those exposed, line them up with the the clips on inner black piece. And use that as your guide to open up more. Basically get it so you can snap on the black piece.

Then very tightly outline the inner black piece. Be careful because the windshield edge of the console only has about 1/4 inch of the tan bezel. I cut it short on that end, and started at the other end. Once you've got it enough so that you can clip on the tan bezel, us the feet on the windshield end to gauge how much more you need to cut down there. Then just even out and clean up the edges.

a128d21d76a2c5728a2d42c9325e3b40.jpg

Opened open from center based on where the retainer slots should be.
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Retainer slots exposed. From here, use the black inner piece as a guide and cut towards the back of the truck until you can snap it in.
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Once you the center piece snapped in, use it as a guide to open up for the tan bezel. ***Be careful at the windshield end.***
13fbe71b4c243aba34c1cf487012db8a.jpg

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Got the tan bezel snapped in, but as you can see in the next pic it's a little too short for the feet. I did this on purpose to make sure I didn't cut to far towards the windshield.
19b20c1364e4ced91baad23421129718.jpg

Close up of the feet. The bezel snaps in towards the rear, so if you can get it snapped in you can then have a better idea of how much you need up front. I started with a line I made right up against the back of those feet, but had to cut another 1/4 inch after that.
8256aa68ffb6a0a6af22d093092a0e5d.jpg

And that's it, you've got your overhead console.
413ef2d41805ada60140e7bef21ef3ee.jpg
 
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R.L.K.

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Nice work , thanks for posting the pics !
 

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I have one forsale if anyone needs one!!


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Express Man

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Awesome thanks man I'll be doing mine soon and this definitely helped.

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Padre675

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Awesome thanks man I'll be doing mine soon and this definitely helped.

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I'm glad it's going to be of help. Also as many have said on here before, just take it slow and open it up a little at a time. A really sharp blade also helps.

Thinking back on it, I would have done the wiring last. Once you have it cut and installed the console will hold the bracket in place so you can get the wiring right.
 
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