What did you do to your Gen3 today?

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Ram Lover

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Blew the rear end seal again, pissed all the fluid out all over the underneath. Is it possible the driveshaft is out of balance to cause this? Quick look the pinion nut doesn't appear to be loose like last time.

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rocket

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Rear and I'm not sure on what else he does.
He's in a small town I grew up in on his property


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Hmmmmm sounds almost like ,naw Lincoln freed them peeps a long time ago.....:happy107:
 

JPT

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Blew the rear end seal again, pissed all the fluid out all over the underneath. Is it possible the driveshaft is out of balance to cause this? Quick look the pinion nut doesn't appear to be loose like last time.

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Yes. If out of balance it wont turn smoothly, causing the seal to not sit flush around the pinion flange. Not guaranteed to be your reason, just a possibility.
 

JPT

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What kit did you use? I need to do this to mine as well as its bare metal still an the wheel well in the bed are a lil beat up

Just FYI, bedliners do not stick well to bare metal... When DIY'ing it is best to make sure the factory priming is untouched. Ideally one only wants to scuff the paint, giving it a strong base.

So if you are doing bare metal, you want the BEST prime job you can do...
 

rocket

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Blew the rear end seal again, pissed all the fluid out all over the underneath. Is it possible the driveshaft is out of balance to cause this? Quick look the pinion nut doesn't appear to be loose like last time.

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How heavy is the hemi foot? I have a theory on hemi foot and broken anything in the drive line, think about it If you're spinning and grinning then decide to fish tail as well or do a few donuts, the stress you put on the bearings and seals are subject to forces they are not designed for. Think of the bearings as a globe on the axis, as you spin it it spins in the direction it is designed to , now put a force on it that is east /west....the globe stops.......so did your bearings.
 

Ram Lover

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How heavy is the hemi foot? I have a theory on hemi foot and broken anything in the drive line, think about it If you're spinning and grinning then decide to fish tail as well or do a few donuts, the stress you put on the bearings and seals are subject to forces they are not designed for. Think of the bearings as a globe on the axis, as you spin it it spins in the direction it is designed to , now put a force on it that is east /west....the globe stops.......so did your bearings.
The 5.9 foot is heavy sometimes, and with 35's it does add some stress, but not often I'm not a teenager anymore. But all that is new so didn't think it should blow already.

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Ram Lover

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Yes. If out of balance it wont turn smoothly, causing the seal to not sit flush around the pinion flange. Not guaranteed to be your reason, just a possibility.
The seal looks to be still flush, fluid is coming from the center.

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Jerseystyle

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Blew the rear end seal again, pissed all the fluid out all over the underneath. Is it possible the driveshaft is out of balance to cause this? Quick look the pinion nut doesn't appear to be loose like last time.

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Did you replace the pinion nut last time? Did you also check your preload on the pinion?

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Ram Lover

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Also a guy at work have me a driveshaft just needs a u joint, it's from a 99 I think are they the same? If so when I take mine off to check/change the seal I'll change the shaft too.

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JPT

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Also a guy at work have me a driveshaft just needs a u joint, it's from a 99 I think are they the same? If so when I take mine off to check/change the seal I'll change the shaft too.

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You don't have to change the shaft... When you have them working on the axle, bring it to a truck driveline shop (they work on 18 wheelers). Have them change all the wear items (unjoints) and balance.

In your reply to me earlier. It will sit flush when you are at a stop, but if the shaft is shaking it will oscillate when driving, creating a gap. I'm not sure how it can be coming from the center as you described. The seal comes in contact with the pinion flange, see picture (unless our axle is different, I know dana 30's, 44's, and 60's from my jeep days),

The flange has been unbolted here in the picture, it goes over the end of the pinion gear (the threads you see is the back of the pinion gear) and the pinion nut holds the flange in place:

129_1211_03%2Bhow_to_replace_a_yoke_seal%2Bpinion_seal_removed


Here is a dana 35 (rear axle) with a flange in place, notice the seal goes over the flange:

jhv47m.jpg
 
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akennedyusmc

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What kit did you use? I need to do this to mine as well as its bare metal still an the wheel well in the bed are a lil beat up



JPT said it as well. This is straight out of instruction booklet, 'Metal-All smooth metal should be cleaned and aggressively roughened. HERCULINER adheres well to sound-painted metal. Most rough metal surfaces need not be primed; however, on applications of extreme wear, such as step nosings, a primer is recommended.'


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Ram Lover

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You don't have to change the shaft... When you have them working on the axle, bring it to a truck driveline shop (they work on 18 wheelers). Have them change all the wear items (unjoints) and balance.

In your reply to me earlier. It will sit flush when you are at a stop, but if the shaft is shaking it will oscillate when driving, creating a gap. I'm not sure how it can be coming from the center as you described. The seal comes in contact with the pinion flange, see picture (unless our axle is different, I know dana 30's, 44's, and 60's from my jeep days),

The flange has been unbolted here in the picture, it goes over the end of the pinion gear (the threads you see is the back of the pinion gear) and the pinion nut holds the flange in place:

129_1211_03%2Bhow_to_replace_a_yoke_seal%2Bpinion_seal_removed


Here is a dana 35 (rear axle) with a flange in place, notice the seal goes over the flange:

jhv47m.jpg
Well I have to take mine out already so thought if i have another good one right here might as well put it in to eliminate the issue, ya i know all too well about how the flange is when the pinion nut came off and dumped the driveshaft and the pinion hit the carrier and locked it up in the road, i was thinking if the shaft was vibrating that maybe the flange ruined the seal.

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Jerseystyle

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Well I have to take mine out already so thought if i have another good one right here might as well put it in to eliminate the issue, ya i know all too well about how the flange is when the pinion nut came off and dumped the driveshaft and the pinion hit the carrier and locked it up in the road, i was thinking if the shaft was vibrating that maybe the flange ruined the seal.

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Are you sure you didn't damage something else last time? Did you see my post about the nut?

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JPT

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Well I have to take mine out already so thought if i have another good one right here might as well put it in to eliminate the issue, ya i know all too well about how the flange is when the pinion nut came off and dumped the driveshaft and the pinion hit the carrier and locked it up in the road, i was thinking if the shaft was vibrating that maybe the flange ruined the seal.

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Make sure the replacement is the same length/style. If it is, I still would have it rebuilt before, just to make sure it really is good.

When I had an unbalanced driveshaft (dented it on rocks, wheeling my jeep), It did make the pinion seal weep gear oil. I balanced the driveshaft WITHOUT changing the seal, and had no more leaks. As you are assuming, if there are any gaps, oil will come out, so if it isn't perfectly spinning only (no side to side) oil will get out. The pinion gear itself is designed to fling oil up towards the seal so that the top bearing gets lubed. If there is even a little gap at the seal it will get out.

You can have another issue causing it to leak, or it could be a combination of things including the driveshaft.
 

Ram Lover

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Make sure the replacement is the same length/style. If it is, I still would have it rebuilt before, just to make sure it really is good.

When I had an unbalanced driveshaft (dented it on rocks, wheeling my jeep), It did make the pinion seal weep gear oil. I balanced the driveshaft WITHOUT changing the seal, and had no more leaks. As you are assuming, if there are any gaps, oil will come out, so if it isn't perfectly spinning only (no side to side) oil will get out. The pinion gear itself is designed to fling oil up towards the seal so that the top bearing gets lubed. If there is even a little gap at the seal it will get out.

You can have another issue causing it to leak, or it could be a combination of things including the driveshaft.
Right it had a vibration after the shop did the work last time so i thought he either didn't set it just right or the shaft, but they only replaced the pinion bearing when I said I might want to do all when you have it apart anyway but he put it back together without even talking to me, then said after that there's damage to the housing and he didn't warranty his work.
Sorry i didn't see your post about the nut.

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Ram Lover

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Did you replace the pinion nut last time? Did you also check your preload on the pinion?

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Yes new nut, oval self locking style, and crush sleeve, not sure though if the shop reused them or new, but said they had to put in a new seal even though I already changed it cause didn't think they could save it.

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Ram Lover

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Right it had a vibration after the shop did the work last time so i thought he either didn't set it just right or the shaft, but they only replaced the pinion bearing when I said I might want to do all when you have it apart anyway but he put it back together without even talking to me, then said after that there's damage to the housing and he didn't warranty his work.
Sorry i didn't see your post about the nut.

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Sorry Jersey didn't realize you commented also, but I found it and responded.

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Jerseystyle

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Sorry Jersey didn't realize you commented also, but I found it and responded.

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No worries. I was curious about the pinion nut because they shouldn't be reused. Is there any play in the pinion? You might need a full rebuild.

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ST-8

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Just FYI, bedliners do not stick well to bare metal... When DIY'ing it is best to make sure the factory priming is untouched. Ideally one only wants to scuff the paint, giving it a strong base.

So if you are doing bare metal, you want the BEST prime job you can do...

I worded that bad. Just meant that mines bare like just the bed no drop in liner or anything. Still has paint lol
 
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