Synthetic Oil

[KevinInVT]

Just stumbled upon this, was a good read

https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28956/lubricant-viscosity-index

Many of you probably know this, as I know you know way more than me about lubricants. Hopefully some find it informative though.

 

[joeagri]

Yesterday I changed my oil for the first time in my 19 Laramie using Mobil 1 with a Mobil 1 filter at 3900 miles(wanted to get the factory oil out). I have always used Mobil 1 in my 2012 Ram had over 100K+ miles towing a travel trailer and seemed to prove itself.

 

[14Tradesman]

Little update on my Redline oil change a week or so ago.

So I guess I never realized how quiet these motors could be. Mine never made much noise anyway, but even just a couple hundred miles on the redline 5w-30 and large RP filter and its a lot quieter than it was on the Amsoil. It also seems to run and accelerate smoother, could be placebo effect but I really feel it does. I have done some towing as well in these first few hundred miles. Nothing heavy, maybe 2000-3000 lbs, and again it seems to be running and accelerating better/smoother than before with some weight behind it. Call me crazy but it seems to sound a little different as well. Anyone else notice this with theirs?

Sitting beside my truck now, all you literally hear at operating temp is injectors firing. Nothing else. Its quite amazing the difference really. I do believe I am going to stick with this combo for the long term.

Out of curiosity, those of you running this combination, how long are you going between changes? On the amsoil, I was changing around 5000 miles. I let it slide to 6000 once, dont really like doing that though. I know many run longer intervals, but whats the general consensus?


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[Stefan N]

I change when car says it's time

 

[Burla]

It's not a placebo dude, I would say 8k miles is easy w/o a uoa, if it's mostly freeway 10k easy. I say this based on my 3 uoa's and the results, you may want to invest in a uoa from blackstone, they send you a kit for free, you simply pay 34 bucks or whatever for a uoa WITH tbn, you need tbn to set the interval and is an additional charge. Every truck is different, so if you wanted to push it past that, I'd say get a uoa. You send the sample in when the oil has at least 8k miles, or you are wasting your time.

 

[Burla]

Yesterday I changed my oil for the first time in my 19 Laramie using Mobil 1 with a Mobil 1 filter at 3900 miles(wanted to get the factory oil out). I have always used Mobil 1 in my 2012 Ram had over 100K+ miles towing a travel trailer and seemed to prove itself.

cool that, m1 is top choice, what weight?

 

[Burla]

Just stumbled upon this, was a good read

https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28956/lubricant-viscosity-index

Many of you probably know this, as I know you know way more than me about lubricants. Hopefully some find it informative though.

machinelube links always welcome, you are looking in the right spot to find info.

 

[Burla]

Corey: I thought this as well.
Then I realized this 2.0L only has 21K miles on it, and we bought the car with 8K miles on her. She was a demo if you will.
The cooling system should have been already totally spotless!

To me it honestly looked like the RMI-25 additive just settled in the bottom and formed a thick slimy film.

I only wish these newer autos had actual radiator caps so you can have access directly to the radiator itself. Like I stated: This is just one freaky Oh $hit!
know one panic just because you added it. This product has a very amazing reputation.

It only was enough to make me really think though!

Well it is in my ram so I guess I will commit to changing the coolant soon and update you. I have had it in there for a couple years at least. It's in the wife's car, guess I need that one as well. It has worked well for me as a flush, removed old sludge from engines. I never assume the factory coolant is ok, there are some reports factory coolants being blown at 8k miles, I don't know why. Incompatable components or air intrusion? How many years? Thanks for letting us know, at some point we should be a thread on it.

 

[Burla]

I have a whole thread on what coolant is in my truck. When the hell did coolant get so damn complicated???

when dex cool ran the world and people thought they could have a long life coolant. People were used to replacing coolant every year or two, now they EXPECT ten.

 

[Burla]

RMI is a additive that acts lie a coolant flush, a detergent, water wetter is not, if I have my facts straight a rare event for sure. Question, in many vehicles you have slime build up that chokes the system, how do you stop this? rmi-25 has proven itself to me, it actually removes slime, I have used it for over a decade. I had it remove years of slime and coolant abuse in older vehicles for me. Question, is it even possible for rmi-25 to settle out as slime, or is it incompatible with the OAT that fca uses, or did it do what it does and remove some slime from Syn's coolant? If it is the latter, send them a thank you letter Syn. We just don't know what the issue is yet. More research should be done, and Burla needs to get on changing both of his vehicles that have been running rmi-25 for years to see if there are any issues.

faqs page.

 

[Burla]

I had a weird experience with my last bottle of RMI-25 within my wifes new 2017 2.0L Turbo Ecoboost.

I poured 1 small bottle in the coolant reservoir before a 274 mile road trip.
after we got back home and the engine had 13 hours to completely cool.
I looked into the reservoir with a flashlight shining from the outside in and found something I did not like.
The whole bottom of the tank was coated in a thin white film, some what like old paint within your paint bucket that you added water to - to help with clean up.

I removed the reservoir and began flushing it out and sure enough large chunks of white/yellow slimy $hit began flushing out on the ground.
There was about a handful of slimy chunks.

So! I cleaned with Bleach/Dawn Rinsed dried and reinstalled with fresh coolant.

I think I am done with the RMI-25.
I don't know how much of that $hit made it through the water pump or heater core. But I didn't like what I seen.

Just my personal experience. Since then I have removed all the other reservoirs from the family autos and rinsed/cleaned and poured in fresh new coolant. None of the others had this issue. I even drained my Rams reservoir and added new coolant.
Didn't want to take the chance.

Once again just 1 bad experience no reason to panic but I think I am done adding additives to my coolant. Just Fresh New Coolant for me.
This was the reason for me asking about the RL WaterWetter product.

I'm gonna send an email to RMI25 folks to see what they say, since both of us recommended this product before. Do you know what coolant was in your wife's car? I just copied and pasted your experience with their product, let's see what they say.

Syn what model car is it? I see a lot of stuff with coolant recall on ecoboost, it looks like a weak point with the eco boost. Still doesn't explain anything, but there is something weird going on with those cooling systems. Facebook groups on it.

This was random post on a vehicle with 25k miles, don't even know what car it is and you see it was 2007. I thought it might be relevant as the condition sounds similar to yours. This one has zero to do with rmi25, again I'm just looking into this as I recommend this product based on my experience.

Thursday 16th August 2007

After my recent overheating and leaking coolant escapades I got around today to taking out the rad to flush it out and have the leak repaired, to put it simply the core was stuffed and the fins shagged so Ive taken it to Serck in Peterborough for a recore.

Whilst removing the rad I noticed a whitish gel like substance in some of the waterways a bit like thick wallpaper paste, so Ive now taken off the thermostat housing and the water pump and there are further deposits of this stuff ranging in size from a small pea up to lumps the size of a thumb nail. (No wonder the rad was blocked!). Ive never come across anything quite like this before, so to my questions;

1 Has anyone else experienced this and if so what is it caused by? Is it something peculiar to alloy engines?

2 Could it be some kind of leak sealer put in by a previous owner?

3 What is the best way (and the best flushing solution) to flush the cooling system waterways to be sure of removing the offending matter, having just opted for a new rad core i dont want to block it straight away with this stuff. (I have dreaded visions of having to half dismantle the engine to wash this stuff out!) I also have the problem of how to flush the heater matrix cos I'll bet theres some in there too!

I should add that the engine has only 25k miles on it and in my ownership at least (last 6-7k miles) its always had approaching 50% antifreeze. It was maintained by TMS before I had the car so I assume it has had the correct attention!

 

[Hemi395]

On the other hand, the overflow would be the place anything RMI cleaned out would end up. I cleaned and flushed my overflow a few months ago because there was some stuff that looked like dirt floating around in it. I just assumed it was the RMI cleaning out the cooling system....

 

[Burla]

Camera's guys, use the cameras. I'm gonna check both over flows today, gonna check mine right now, wife's when she gets home. Need a damn flashlight with this black over flow, lol.

Man all of these coolant issues just another concern. Syn you still using global life?

 

[Burla]

Man these black over flows are the worst, can't even see anything with a flashlight. I guess my flush procedure will include un-hooking that and emptying to see anything. I didn't like the level on it or the color of the coolant at the rad neck, so I will do a flush the next day or two/three with pics either way. mind you I am in year 8 of a 5 year coolant, don't say it I know I am a dum....

Wanted to do everything in my 30k mile service, waited too long on that item.

 

[SyN]

Burla she holds the Orange Ford OAT (Dexcool).
previous owner was the dealership. They showed me all the service records prior to buying. Nothing done but oil changes.

2017 Ford Edge 2.0L Ecoboost.

Also: Dorman makes a clear overflow tank for the Ram.
I installed one on my 2014 Ram.
I posted all the info within this thread along ways back
Really made watching the coolant condition much easier.

I used the Peak Global Lifetime in my 2014 Ram with awesome results.
Never an issue since it was practically identical chemistry to the Mopar Purple $hit and so much cheaper. One Day it will end up in my 2017 Ram.

Like I said: None of you panic over my 1 freak issue! Just check your coolant within your reservoir for any type of contamination. If no visible contamination continue to use the product. The product itself has nothing but stellar reviews and results.

I have no idea or clue what caused the additive to change chemically and settle at the bottom of the reservoir but I'm not taking a chance again within the rest the family autos as well as my new Ram. Don't Freak Out!
Note: Before I added the product to the 2.0L the reservoir was totally spotless and clear. Once I added the product & After about 250-300 miles I noticed the yellowish/white film coating on the the bottom.

I should have taken pictures of the yellowish/white film on the concrete after draining but my mind was on one thing. Get it all out and clean the tank and check the rest of the autos.

One more note: This Edge as well as the 2.0L Ecoboost has been amazing so far! I love the Edge brand we have had 4 over the years. Never a issue!
The 2.0L Turbo is a strong little power house! So far no issues - no leaks. I'm very impressed with this little inline 4. Top Tier Gas/Top Tier Oil/Top Tier Filters/Good Routine Maintenance is key!

 

[chrisbh17]

When it was time for me to change coolant on my old frontier I was taken down an interesting path of research. Honda wants no phosphates, Nissan wants phosphates, etc.

It all seemed very hard to track down for sure... Hate to say it but the best way might be to buy the factory stuff.

Is it possible to do something like a VOA but in coolant? That might help determine what we can use to replace it without any compatibility issues or reactions.

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[Burla]

They have coolant test kits, I just never heard of anyone doing it.

Not a huge consumer base on rmi25, but there is this set, another set of like 25 plus users, and another set but small that all were 5 stars. I haven't seen issues with the product, certainly doesn't mean there aren't any. I still don't know if Syn's experience is good or bad, maybe it cleaned out the problem or maybe it created the problem. But I can tell you there are very few options to flush a radiator system, and this one does flush and/or you can use it as an additive, meaning boost the additive package of your coolant. I'm not sure if I will add it as an additive next time, but I will be using it as a flush. Like Syn said all of this happened when he went on a trip, RMI25 works quick as a flush if you get the rad to temp and do a trip like this. I understand why Syn is spooked, it is hard to believe the coolant system is blown already, but there are some cooling system issues with eco boosts and it I've found similar things happen even w/o rmi25 at 25k miles. I certainly hope the company addresses what happened.

 

[Burla]

Ford admits eco boost burns coolant, wtf? If you need another reason then lspi to not buy an eco boost, lol. Oh hell no, listen to this...


Various sources have said that the problem comes from deformation between the engine block and the cylinder head that occurs as the engine heats and cools. When the engine warms up, the block and head seal as they should. When the engine cools down, the gap returns, and engine coolant can enter the combustion chamber of one or more cylinders.

Quality control? Aluminum heads on a steel block? This always worries me although most of the time there is no issue.

 

[chrisbh17]

Ford admits eco boost burns coolant, wtf? If you need another reason then lspi to not buy an eco boost, lol. Oh hell no, listen to this...


Various sources have said that the problem comes from deformation between the engine block and the cylinder head that occurs as the engine heats and cools. When the engine warms up, the block and head seal as they should. When the engine cools down, the gap returns, and engine coolant can enter the combustion chamber of one or more cylinders.

Is that the engine that they finally admitted had a badly designed head/head gasket?

There is a very narrow part of the head gasket that eventually erodes away as the cylinder heat heat cycles. It allows coolant to get into 1 or 2 of the cylinders (IIRC its the 2 center cylinders).

Not sure what the fix is, maybe a thicker head gasket...I dont think they changed the design of the head (or maybe they did?) but it took a lot of people complaining before Ford would even look at it as their own issue. It doesnt help there arent exactly a ton of Focus RS's running around.

 

[R.L.K.]

The stock Tstat in a 5.7 is 203* from what I've read....

That makes more sense to me since mine runs just below and just above 203 normally ...

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