Coolant mixture

[Runaround]

The main thing you have to know (OP), is, if you drain the system by, say, pulling off the lower radiator hose, you probably leave 1.5 qt's of water (or coolant) in the engine & heater core which you can't get out. I think that's what you're confused about, right -- how do you accomodate for the water you can't remove?

If you buy 50/50 premix then just fill it up and, where you live, don't worry about the residual. Or if you get a jug of concentrate & a jug of distilled water, just add an extra qt or qt and a half of concentrate. Then keep filling out of each jug until you have the mix fairly close. It's not rocket surgery, so you don't need to be exactly right on.

Even *if* you didn't have it quite at freezing (for argument sakes here), the water coolant mixture won't freeze anyway, it'll just turn to slush. I'm just making a point there, but I would shoot for a 50/50 mix. And if your truck overheats or runs hot at that temp, even on a 105* day, then something else is wrong (plugged radiator, obstructions in front of the radiator, bad water pump, leaking head gasket, etc).

Does that help?

This is what I’ve been trying to find out, about how much is left in the motor and heater core and such upon draining using the petcock on the radiator.

 

[Jeepwalker]

If you pull the lower radiator hose (Might as well change it if real old) you can get more coolant out if you jack the rear of the truck up a ways (tilts the engine down), or do it with the truck nose-down on a slight incline. New hose should have a spring in it so it doesn't 'suck-in' upon acceleration and starve your truck of coolant.

But to top off the antifreeze, point the truck nose-up on an incline so the air can work it's way up the fill corner of the radiator. Or better yet, open the bleed screw (see youtube videos). Good luck

 

[Wild one]

This is what I’ve been trying to find out, about how much is left in the motor and heater core and such upon draining using the petcock on the radiator.

You're asking a question that's going to be tough to answer,as i don't know of anybody who's drained the rad,then pulled the block plugs out and measured what comes out of them after draining the rad,then blew air through the heater core to force the anti-freeze out of it,and measured what they got out it,then combined the measurements.Buy a testor is all i got,you got a few months to get it right before you have to worry about it freezing ,lol

 

[Jeepwalker]

True.

I'm estimating based on many V8's I've pulled over the yrs and about how much coolant has run out into a drain pan, when ya tilt the engine that's hanging on a chain forward and back a few times. And what's left when ya pull the intake/heads and drain the block. Then there's the heater core and hose. Heater core has two small tanks on the ends, the hose is ...a certain length. It's an 'estimate' not an "exact-a-ment". Usually you figure half a gallon or so plus or minus ....which my calculations show is about 2qts +/-. If ya want to get the more out, jack the rear end up, or drain on an incline (nose-down). Don't refill it nose-down though.

Figure 1-ish to 2-ish qts, even maybe 3 left depending on how you drain the system: 1 quart or quart and a half, if ya jack the rear of the truck up and removed the lower radiator hose. 2qts, maybe even a bit more if you drain the coolant on the level (engine angled slightly upward). Either way, it'll all work out in the end. If it hasn't work out ...then it's probably not the end

 

[Jeepwalker]

OP, check the coolant with a coolant checker *before* you have the system fully filled up. Depending on what it's showing you, add more coolant or water to get where you need to be. I think others recommended this too. (sorry to duplicate)

Note: You ARE going to use distilled or purified water, right? Never use tap water. it'll mineralize your system up sure as can be and can reduce cooling efficiency.

 

[huntergreen]

Maybe it’s just me, but I’d do a complete drain and fill with premix.

 

[Runaround]

OP, check the coolant with a coolant checker *before* you have the system fully filled up. Depending on what it's showing you, add more coolant or water to get where you need to be. I think others recommended this too. (sorry to duplicate)

Note: You ARE going to use distilled or purified water, right? Never use tap water. it'll mineralize your system up sure as can be and can reduce cooling efficiency.

Yes I will be using distilled water if I use any water at all. I might be using concentrate and premix together.

 

[crash68]

Buy a testor is all i got,you got a few months to get it right before you have to worry about it freezing

Coolant goes in both directions. Helps keeps the radiator from boiling over something the OP being from Texas is probably more concerned with than ya'll Canadians with your freezing...lol

 

[Wild one]

Coolant goes in both directions. Helps keeps the radiator from boiling over something the OP being from Texas is probably more concerned with than ya'll Canadians with your freezing...lol

Well you got me there Phil,lol. We've actually been under a heat warning here,but our heat warnings start to kick in around the mid 80F mark,long ways off what Texas see's in the summer. A 50/50 mix if i remember right gives you the best boil over prevention,and is more then strong enough to handle most southern winters

 

[turkeybird56]

Well you got me there Phil,lol. We've actually been under a heat warning here,but our heat warnings start to kick in around the mid 80F mark,long ways off what Texas see's in the summer. A 50/50 mix if i remember right gives you the best boil over prevention,and is more then strong enough to handle most southern winters

Heat warnings at 80 degrees, now that is FUNNY !!!!!

...HEAT ADVISORY REMAINS IN EFFECT UNTIL 9 PM CDT THIS EVENING... * WHAT...Heat index values 105 to 112 degrees expected. * WHERE...South of the Interstate 20 corridor into much of Central Texas. * WHEN...Through 9 PM CDT Monday. * IMPACTS...Hot temperatures and high humidity will increase the risk for heat-related illnesses to occur, particularly for those working or participating in outdoor activities.

 

[Jim BB]

I just replaced the water pump on my 2014 5.7 1500.
I refilled it with distilled water and have driven for a week watching the coolant level and checking for leaks.
No leaks and no loss. Now I’m ready to pull the petcock and drain the radiator.
My question is, if I refill it with concentrate, what will be the approximate mixture ratio and freezing point of my mixture?

I live in Canada where temps are in the minus - in winter months so i normally mix one gallon of concentrate to one gallon of distilled water never had a problem

 

[turkeybird56]

I live in Canada where temps are in the minus - in winter months so i normally mix one gallon of concentrate to one gallon of distilled water never had a problem

Yup, 50/50... Standard Mopar mix, I guess being in the frozen tundra up there, U could go 60/40 to lower freeze point even more.

 

[scotchult]

This is what I’ve been trying to find out, about how much is left in the motor and heater core and such upon draining using the petcock on the radiator.

This is definitely comparing apples to oranges, but... I did a coolant flush on my F150 over the weekend (drain, run chemicals, drain & refill with water until clean). When I first started, I was just draining from the radiator petcock, and got about 2.5 gallons out. When I finally got a block drain broken loose and out, I got another 2.5 gallons. That's 20 qts total. My owners manual says capacity is 21.2 qts. I've gotta assume your Ram would be similar. I agree with everyone else, go slowly with a gauge/tester, absolutely your best option.

 

[indept]

I’m not refusing to use a meter. It’s just the fact that if I refill the system with whatever mixture, check it and it needs more coolant I can’t just add more, there wouldn’t be room without draining some of what has already been added.
I’m just trying to get close to the freezing point of the teens first. I don’t want to have to fill, drain, fill several times to get it right. I’m trying to get a mixture pretty close to what I’m looking for early on without the waste of draining several times if I don’t get enough coolant in the system.

Get the meter and start out on the bench with a quart of concentrate. Measure what temp full strength is then dilute with water to 90%, 80%, 70% .... down to 50% measuring each step to see what each gives you. If 60% meets your goal then mix 65 - 70% to allow for water left on the block.

 

[nascar72]

Always keep in mind if you only drain by the rad's drain valve that there will always be about roughly a gallon or 2 left in the block. So usually I refill with straight coolant and end up 9 times out of 10 with a 70/30 mixture or a -45 reading. So by adding distilled water in the cooling overflow reservoir, you should get close to 50/50 mixture wich is the mixture used at the assembly plant. Where I live in eastern Canada, I try to aim thowards the 60/40 to 70/30 mixture. If temps didn't get below 0 C or 32 F I'd stick with the 50/50 mix for sure.

 

[FCAEMPLOYEE]

Buy the 50/50 mix and go get a beer and some BBQ.

 

[David James]

I just replaced the water pump on my 2014 5.7 1500.
I refilled it with distilled water and have driven for a week watching the coolant level and checking for leaks.
No leaks and no loss. Now I’m ready to pull the petcock and drain the radiator.
My question is, if I refill it with concentrate, what will be the approximate mixture ratio and freezing point of my mixture?

Why not refill it off the top with a premix OEM antifreeze/coolant mix? That’s what the engine calls for . It has corrosion inhibitors and water pump lube built in. Otherwise, now just pop an upper heater hose and refill with the called for coolant until you get to the 50% mark. It’ll begin to come through the heater hose with the color of that product. If you haven’t cycled it through heater core you need to take that into account too.

 

[Hardracer]

Heat warnings at 80 degrees, now that is FUNNY !!!!!

...HEAT ADVISORY REMAINS IN EFFECT UNTIL 9 PM CDT THIS EVENING... * WHAT...Heat index values 105 to 112 degrees expected. * WHERE...South of the Interstate 20 corridor into much of Central Texas. * WHEN...Through 9 PM CDT Monday. * IMPACTS...Hot temperatures and high humidity will increase the risk for heat-related illnesses to occur, particularly for those working or participating in outdoor activities.

View attachment 524315View attachment 524316

Ya I laughed at that too...over here in SW FL....were hitting near 100s everyday then factor in sh%t ton of humidity...and you just roast..
Really suks walkin out the door at 6:30 and it's 85 and muggy....your already sweatin when you hit the truck.definitly a real diff.between a dry heat and a moist heat.
80 is a dam cold front here.

 

[Jeepwalker]

We ran into something like that too one time in the UK. They were going into a once-in-25yrs 'heat wave'. The temps were going to hit the lower 90's for a couple days. All the news features on TV were how to stay healthy, avoid heat stroke and the usual. People were asked to stay home if their jobs weren't critical. When we were driving a lot of drivers were pulled over on the side of the road with their hood's up?? (whaaaat?)

It's all relative, I guess. People in the mid-east deal with super high temps all the time. But we got a kick out of it.

 

[jh90731]

This is definitely comparing apples to oranges, but... I did a coolant flush on my F150 over the weekend (drain, run chemicals, drain & refill with water until clean). When I first started, I was just draining from the radiator petcock, and got about 2.5 gallons out. When I finally got a block drain broken loose and out, I got another 2.5 gallons. That's 20 qts total. My owners manual says capacity is 21.2 qts. I've gotta assume your Ram would be similar. I agree with everyone else, go slowly with a gauge/tester, absolutely your best option.

is there a block drain on the 5.7? If so, where?

also, I'm planning to do a coolant x-change on mine soon. the dealer says my 2014 takes the purple G40 coolant but it's the orange type in it now. was there TSB for this change for a 2014?
TIA