Automatic Door Locks Will Unlock, but Won't Lock

aepowell said:

They put in the new BCM today. I'll report back to let ya'll know if its fixed.

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Aepowell, if you see this post, I’m very curious if the BCM fixed your problem?

Its been a week now and I have given them a work out. I have the automatic lock and unlock checked and the locks have performed flawlessly. I sent this thread to the service manager and they said it helped them.
Anthony

Thanks for the reply, it’s good to know the dealer was receptive to the information.
I hope the dealership here in Bend is as open to it. My fear is that they will only want to replace the switch and that will fail as it has for others here, but it’ll then be beyond the warranty period!
It’s good to know that Ram cares about their internet presence though, and Ramcares has offered to help with my case so stay tuned, my appointment is tomorrow...

OP here. I haven't experienced this issue again since the BCM was replaced in July 2016.

I had a 2013 Longhorn in 2014. It developed this problem within the first couple weeks. They replaced door switches and panels several times, finally stripping out the entire interior wiring harness to replace it. Never did fix the problem.


As a result I traded the truck in after about 3 months of dealer trips. Didn’t want a truck with an electrical gremlin they couldn’t fix.

My 16 1500 had locking issues where it would intermittently not work. I'll have to let the new owner know to take it in for the bcm.

I will update after I visit the dealer. They had to reschedule my appointment.
I just hope they replace the BCM after all I’ve read here.
Deki, mine is also intermittent, it seems to work when the truck is very cold but after it warms up the problems start.

Lwarner03 said:

I will update after I visit the dealer. They had to reschedule my appointment.
I just hope they replace the BCM after all I’ve read here.
Deki, mine is also intermittent, it seems to work when the truck is very cold but after it warms up the problems start.

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Had the wiring harness for the tailgate lock replaced on my '17 Ram. Works just fine now.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Yeah, they’re looking at it now. I want to make sure it’s a long term fix and not a band-aid because it’s only under warranty for another month at this point, and some of the other posters have mentioned that a few attempted fixes provided temporary relief but it wasn’t until the BCM was replaced that it was permanently fixed.
IF my truck needs the BCM I’d like to get it done while it’s still under warranty instead of replacing a switch or harness and having it work for a month or two and then the problem reoccurring but no longer under warranty.
I will update when they’ve gotten back to me.

Everyone keeps saying BCM as far as I can tell though we do not have a BCM many chrysler/ ram products have the TIPM. I've got a short my locks won't work at all. Fuse pops as soon as I put it in wipers move as I'm putting in the door lock fuse I've literally gutted my interior looking for a bare wire. If a 2012 slt does have a BCM can anyone tell me where it's located. Before I pull the TIPM and inspect the board for obvious signs of damage to the relay/ circuitry?

Has anyone changed the BCM by themselves to correct this problem and does a dealer need to flash anything if the BCM is replaced?

I just purchased a 2013 Ram 2500 Laramie with this issue and the truck is out of warranty so I will fix this myself if possible.

From previous posts on this thread it appears the part number for the 2013 is 68200252AF can anyone confirm this?

bmeyer2017 said:

Has anyone changed the BCM by themselves to correct this problem and does a dealer need to flash anything if the BCM is replaced?

I just purchased a 2013 Ram 2500 Laramie with this issue and the truck is out of warranty so I will fix this myself if possible.

From previous posts on this thread it appears the part number for the 2013 is 68200252AF can anyone confirm this?

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Send a message to forum vendor @AllmoparParts (Benny is the rep) with your make, year, and Vin. He can verify what you need.
I'm almost completely certain that the dealer will need to reload the config into it. Doubt you can order it preloaded for your Vin, but who knows.

M² Mods.

I did a little debugging on this issue. The wiring diagram for the door locks (attached) shows the following:

Connector C on the BCM housing
Pin 1 = Driver's door only unlock output signal
Pin 2 = Lock/unlock input signal (from door switch and key fob)
Pin 3 = Unlocks all other doors output signal (excluding the tailgate, this is a separate signal as well)

Pin 1 and 3 would normally be connected together but in the EVIC settings there is an option to make 1 press of key fob unlock only the driver's door (and tailgate) and a double press unlock all the doors. So these need to be separate output signals. If you do not carry around too many passengers, this is a redneck fix because the drivers side unlock and lock both work, the other doors are the problem as they do not lock.

Here is a diagram that shows the location of the three pins described above.



Looking at these signals with an oscilloscope (with the dated time stamp from 1993, still works great!), all the unlock signals are close to the same on pin 1, 2, and 3. However, the lock signal is the same for the pin 2 input signal and pin 1 driver's door but has an unlock signal for pin 3 which controls the other three doors. Hence the problem we are all facing.



It is quite possible the BCM's microcontroller firmware is misinterpreting the lock input signal. I've traced the signal on the PCB connector to the relay driver and nothing seems out of the ordinary. There is a simple Darlington relay driver whose input is connected to a microcontroller and ouput connected to the relay that drives the door lock actuator on the BCM PCB. The input signal to the driver is the same as the output just lower power which is indicative of a software issue with misinterpreting whatever signal tells the BCM to lock the doors.

Two interesting side notes:
1) Sometimes when the brake is applied, a warning shows up in the EVIC that says I have a parking brake out. This is a false positive. Possibly a related problem with the BCM as it likely controls these warning indications as well.
2) Since day 1 of owning my truck I took the cover off the tailgate and disabled the tail gate lock by simply unplugging the connector. The door lock problem might be related but it took 3 years for it to start showing up. Have others done the same by chance?

The BCM has to have a software flash by the dealership to function properly. I've purchased a used one for $80 from eBay that I am going to install in the dealership parking lot then get them to flash it. The BCM flashing manual says it takes 0.2 hours but the dealership says it costs $130, maybe that includes the labor to remove it as well. It is simply a flash using the OBD-II port underneath the steering wheel according to the flashing manual.

I'll let everyone know how it works out and the best way to avoid paying the dealershipp $$$ if your truck is out of warranty.

bmeyer2017 said:

Has anyone changed the BCM by themselves to correct this problem and does a dealer need to flash anything if the BCM is replaced?

I just purchased a 2013 Ram 2500 Laramie with this issue and the truck is out of warranty so I will fix this myself if possible.

From previous posts on this thread it appears the part number for the 2013 is 68200252AF can anyone confirm this?

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That is the correct part# for the module, and yes, there is programming required by the dealership for it to work as the module is generic and needs to be setup for your truck.

Hootbro said:

The tailgate has a dedicated wiring path from the BCM for the lock and unlock. For the doors, the path for the lock come off the BCM and hit the drivers door first. After that, it daisy chains for the other doors.

Since the drivers door will lock repeatedly, then you have a break on the daisy chain for the lock circuit going to the other doors.

https://techauthorityonlinedemo.extra.chrysler.com/service/repair/wiring/view/classic.htm
https://techauthorityonlinedemo.extra.chrysler.com/service/repair/wiring/view/classic.htm

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Is that a fuse or is there a break in the wire

smiley said:

Fixed it for you.

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How did you fix it?

My 2013 1500 is doing the unlock but won't lock problem

bmeyer2017 said:

Has anyone changed the BCM by themselves to correct this problem and does a dealer need to flash anything if the BCM is replaced?

I just purchased a 2013 Ram 2500 Laramie with this issue and the truck is out of warranty so I will fix this myself if possible.

From previous posts on this thread it appears the part number for the 2013 is 68200252AF can anyone confirm this?

Click to expand...

That is the correct part number, but you cannot just change it yourself as it does require programming at the dealership.

Larry Vincent said:

My 2013 1500 is doing the unlock but won't lock problem

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Do you have a 8.4 head unit? If so, have you checked your settings?

No I don't have and screen.