Check your intake manifold bolts

Mister Luck said:

Why thank you Weldone I consider that a compliment coming from someone with your back ground.. May I save this endorsement and place it in my resume?

I don’t believe you’re actually willing to help anyone especially this website itself but again if you happen to learn something on how to link what you suggest in the way of items to buy to help this website through Amazon you would have proved me wrong.

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I've retorqued aluminum intake manifolds also.And cylinder heads.It's not an unusual thing to do.

Wild one said:

I'm guessing if you use his theory,you shouldn't have to re-torque your aluminium wheels either,as you must have "serious issues" if they loosen up

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I don't think the "serious issues" are with the truck

Mister Luck said:

This thread needs a disclaimer.
If you have loose intake manifold bolts as described in the beginning of this thread your truck has more serious issues that should be addressed .
I’m not sure why this thread is allowed to exist but it hurts the credibility of this website and possibly that is the intention of its creators.

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If bolts/screws/nuts are loose an have a torque setting.......they need to be addressed.

What about the valve covers? Do they typically loosen as well? They look to be composite as well. I haven't checked mine yet.

TC said:

What about the valve covers? Do they typically loosen as well? They look to be composite as well. I haven't checked mine yet.

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If you have any oil leaks in the vinicity of the covers,it's worth checking their bolt torque,although they don't seem to be as prone to loosening off as the intakes do,but it never hurts to check them to every once inawhile.
The valve covers call for 106 in-lbs ,just slightly under the intake bolts at 108 in-lbs / 9 ft-lb,at least that's what my book says,although this guy says 70 in-lbs. My book is on the cars,but i can't see them being any differant then the trucks,as they use the same valve cover to my knowledge. Hopefully some one who has access to the trucks tear down manual will post up what the trucks call for if it's differant then the cars 106 in-lbs


I was hoping Summit had the valve cover torque spec,but it's not listed on this page.


Did find this,and it looks like 105/106 in-lbs is the valve cover torque.

Install cylinder head cover assembly to cylinder head. Install all fasteners, ensuring the double ended studs are in their proper location. Tighten fasteners in sequence shown in (Cylinder Head Cover Tightening Sequence). Using a 3 step torque method as follows:
Tighten all bolts to 4.5 N·m (40 in. lbs.).
Tighten all bolts to 9.0 N·m (80 in. lbs.).
Tighten all bolts to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.).

Wild one said:

If you have any oil leaks in the vinicity of the covers,it's worth checking their bolt torque,although they don't seem to be as prone to loosening off as the intakes do,but it never hurts to check them to every once inawhile.
The valve covers call for 106 in-lbs ,just slightly under the intake bolts at 108 in-lbs / 9 ft-lb,at least that's what my book says,although this guy says 70 in-lbs. My book is on the cars,but i can't see them being any differant then the trucks,as they use the same valve cover to my knowledge. Hopefully some one who has access to the trucks tear down manual will post up what the trucks call for if it's differant then the cars 106 in-lbs

How to Replace Valve Cover Gaskets 2011-2018 Ram 1500

Shop for New Auto Parts at 1AAuto.com http://1aau.to/c/137/aq/gasketsThis video shows you how to install a new set of valve cover gaskets on your 2011-2018 R...

www.youtube.com

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those 1A Auto videos are very good and very helpful. Love those.

For $h!ts and giggle i just checked 6 of the easy to get at valve cover bolts on my 6.4 Challenger and 5.7 300,and they all were tight. I figure if 6 of them are tight on both engines,the rest are also probably still tight. The cars are easy to get at,and i can do them standing on the ground leaning over the fenders,truck not so much

Wild one said:

For $h!ts and giggle i just checked 6 of the easy to get at valve cover bolts on my 6.4 Challenger and 5.7 300,and they all were tight. I figure if 6 of them are tight on both engines,the rest are also probably still tight. The cars are easy to get at,and i can do them standing on the ground leaning over the fenders,truck not so much

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Is this factory tight or still tight from the last time you tightened them, if you did?

EDIT: I want to check mine, but tomorrow will be chilly and breezy and they're calling for 3" - 6" of snow.
And I have no symptoms.
And I don't wanna go.

Curmudgeon said:

EDIT: I want to check mine, but tomorrow will be chilly and breezy and they're calling for 3" - 6" of snow.
And I have no symptoms.
And I don't wanna go.

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I just want to point out that you have the perfect avatar for your edit to your last post, 'cause all I'm hearing is a bunch of whining.

mikeru said:

I just want to point out that you have the perfect avatar for your edit to your last post, 'cause all I'm hearing is a bunch of whining.

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My wife chose my nickname, so, she knows.
The pic is our 1st grandchild making faces in his bath
about 15 years ago. I've been using both for a long time.

EDIT: There is another one I use from the same bath.
We all refer to it as "The Cheney"

Yeah, aluminum substrates are problematic because they have 3x the deflection of ferrous alloys, so generally you should torque bolts onto aluminum surfaces twice - once initially, then after a couple hundred miles.

This has been pretty well known now, for the past couple decades. And also the corrosion around wheel rims needs to really by dressed down before changing tires or they won't seal.

Curmudgeon said:

Is this factory tight or still tight from the last time you tightened them, if you did?

EDIT: I want to check mine, but tomorrow will be chilly and breezy and they're calling for 3" - 6" of snow.
And I have no symptoms.
And I don't wanna go.

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Factory tight as the valve covers have never been off either engine,the trucks the only one i've had the covers off,lol.
The 6.4 only has 18,000 miles on it,so i didn't think they'd be loose,but the 300 has just over 70,000 on it,so i figured if either would have loosened up,it would of been the 300,but they're still tight on it

Wild One--is it crazy to think you shouldn't mill your manifolds if they are slightly warped???? Repaired busted bolts on DS noticed a slight unevenness to manifold but just slapped it back on knowing casket would take care of slight defect and it seems like a perfect match once warmed up as tick always went away. Seems like it would just keep busting bolts if it was milled. Yes, I am a novice mechanic lol.
Hope you know what I'm trying to say.

Mister Luck said:

This thread needs a disclaimer.
If you have loose intake manifold bolts as described in the beginning of this thread your truck has more serious issues that should be addressed .
I’m not sure why this thread is allowed to exist but it hurts the credibility of this website and possibly that is the intention of its creators.

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Curious why you think that?

Besides you two tossing insults at each other.

Telling people to check bolts or anything on their truck isn't bad thing.

When we had fleet of Rams, it was part of yearly maintenance done all our ram trucks.
It's still done on Ford trucks. In our case, if they were loose, and 50% were after two years. They were replaced with new OEM bolts, we didn't just retorque them.

rmill said:

Wild One--is it crazy to think you shouldn't mill your manifolds if they are slightly warped???? Repaired busted bolts on DS noticed a slight unevenness to manifold but just slapped it back on knowing casket would take care of slight defect and it seems like a perfect match once warmed up as tick always went away. Seems like it would just keep busting bolts if it was milled. Yes, I am a novice mechanic lol.
Hope you know what I'm trying to say.

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Usually after they've warped and taken a set,you can sand or machine them flat,and they'll retain their flatness, after the sanding

Mister Luck said:

This thread needs a disclaimer.
If you have loose intake manifold bolts as described in the beginning of this thread your truck has more serious issues that should be addressed .
I’m not sure why this thread is allowed to exist but it hurts the credibility of this website and possibly that is the intention of its creators.

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Bad take there fella.

I’ll insert a disclaimer for anyone else who stumbles across this thread years from now: this is a potential issue, even for people who take great care of their Hemi’s.

I take pride in my truck. I’m an experienced at home mechanic in many ways, not just vehicles, and I’ll tackle nearly anything mechanical. Nearly all of my intake manifold bolts were loose, and that’s no fault of my own. I’m not gonna go and check every single bolt on my motor…

But when other people are having an identical experience, when no other issues are present, then this is a TSB that is helpful to those who read it.

Just because your opinion is different, doesn’t mean that this doesn’t exist out there in the world.

I will check the intake bolts on my '15 when I do the next service. They have never been messed with since I've had the truck. 28.6K miles when bought.

And to tell you all the truth, I've also not messed with my throttle body either (please don't flame me....lol). I have sanded my exhaust manifolds and replaced the bolts, serviced my 8HP70, spark plugs, coolant, brake fluids, etc.

Also, oil changes right near the end of the oil life on the evic. PP 5W-30 + XG2 on the last several changes, have used lubegard as well, but not on last few changes.

My Ram has 182k as I write this. I am curious to see if there is a noticeable difference if mine turn out to be loose.

EdGs said:

I will check the intake bolts on my '15 when I do the next service. They have never been messed with since I've had the truck. 28.6K miles when bought.

And to tell you all the truth, I've also not messed with my throttle body either (please don't flame me....lol). I have sanded my exhaust manifolds and replaced the bolts, serviced my 8HP70, spark plugs, coolant, brake fluids, etc.

Also, oil changes right near the end of the oil life on the evic. PP 5W-30 + XG2 on the last several changes, have used lubegard as well, but not on last few changes.

My Ram has 182k as I write this. I am curious to see if there is a noticeable difference if mine turn out to be loose.

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Pay attention to how it idles. It should be noticeably smoother without sputtering or missing.
That was my experience. I was astonished.

Who the heck is Weldone? Although I do like that screen name lol

kdoublep said:

Who the heck is Weldone? Although I do like that screen name lol

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I am not sure either, I assume it some sort of childish teasing.

This thread has been nothing more than a friendly reminder or suggestion to check on a known issue with our trucks.

No idea why someone would get bent out of shape over it.