greasin that hitch

62Blazer · Apr 10, 2024

I've never greased or put anything on the hitch shank that goes into the truck hitch. I do remove it when not being used. Had my last truck for 16 years with the same hitch setup and it had just light surface rust...and I live in the rust belt. Would just periodically clean it up a little and maybe spray some paint on it. I understand the concept of dirt and dust attaching to the grease and making it abrasive....but it really shouldn't be moving much. Maybe a little rattle or vibration, but like it's moving back and forth or rotating inside the hitch!

HEMIMANN · Apr 10, 2024

Grease isn't primarily to prevent rust - it is to reduce friction and galling going around corners.

Would you use ball joints with no grease? That's what you're advocating not greasing trailer hitch ball.

Dean2 · Apr 10, 2024

An Aluminum Insert solves all those rusted in place issues. I leave a metal draw bar with a clevis in mine full time for extraction. Only put the hitch in place if pulling a trailer.

62Blazer · Apr 10, 2024

HEMIMANN said:
Grease isn't primarily to prevent rust - it is to reduce friction and galling going around corners.

Would you use ball joints with no grease? That's what you're advocating not greasing trailer hitch ball.

Neither the original post or my post is talking about the hitch ball at all. We are talking about the square steel piece that slides into the truck hitch and is held on with a pin.
I do agree with the hitch ball and always apply grease to it. Drives me crazy seeing people who do not, and also seeing obvious wear on the hitch ball from it!

RamInfo · Apr 10, 2024

FWIW, after 15 years of driving my Dakota with the stinger always inserted I went to remove the stinger…and couldn’t. Hooked a chain on a bollard and the hitch ball to pull out the stinger and…it wouldn’t budge. So, it went with the truck! The concern is that if the stinger rusts in place it’s not just weakening the stinger, but the hitch socket as well.

I still leave my bump-guard in place all the time—it mounts the same as a stinger and ball—but it is periodically removed and greased.

Best,
RI

Dean2 · Apr 10, 2024

RamInfo said:
FWIW, after 15 years of driving my Dakota with the stinger always inserted I went to remove the stinger…and couldn’t. Hooked a chain on a bollard and the hitch ball to pull out the stinger and…it wouldn’t budge. So, it went with the truck! The concern is that if the stinger rusts in place it’s not just weakening the stinger, but the hitch socket as well.

I still leave my bump-guard in place all the time—it mounts the same as a stinger and ball—but it is periodically removed and greased.

Best,
RI

Well, if it is rust welded in place nothing got weaker. If anything you have a stronger setup than just being held by the pin.

GTyankee · Apr 11, 2024

BUT
the shank on the Hitch, can jamb in the Hitch Receiver, if you don't pull it out once or twice a year
Then scrape the old lubricant & sand/dirt off the shank & re-apply

Lsujker · Apr 14, 2024

What about powder graphite as an option?

HEMIMANN · Apr 14, 2024

Lsujker said:
What about powder graphite as an option?

doesn't stay put

that's what grease is all about - the soap thickener keeps the oil and additive in place

Dean2 · Apr 14, 2024

So, I have the same equalizer receiver hitch on one 2500 for 28 years. Unless you need to change hitches I see no issue with it being rusted in place. Mine also has a grade 8 bolt and Nylon lock nut on it. After a couple of years, NO ONE is ever going to steal that hitch off of there, even if they take the bolt out. At this point I could probably remove the bolt and tow anything I want with no bolt in place.

If I wanted to be able to switch hitches I would still use the grade 8 bolt with a ny-lock, but put white Lithium grease or the Mobil synthetic waterproof stuff on the shaft. I would pull it off at least annually, clean it up, and re-grease it. No need to make it complicated.

Docwagon1776 · Apr 14, 2024

Maybe wd-40 silicone or dry lube. Silicone won't attract and hold dirt once set up, dry lube won't from the start. Just keep the hitch under 500 degrees F...

aepowell · Apr 15, 2024

I have read about using wax paper on the ball.

Joseph Godvin · Apr 15, 2024

I use Motor Kote........is is absorbed into the metal and prevents rust, does't leave a greasy coating on surface !!!

Hardracer · Apr 15, 2024

I've never greased my hitch and it's never been taken out,normal amount of extterior light rust..nothing to worry about....
I you are dead set on a lube....use a dry film grahite or silicone type...garage door roller spray would work...as others have stated will collect crap in there

rvance · Apr 15, 2024

GTyankee said:
Remove it if it is not in use.
Some cities have a Rule about hitches, if someone hurts their leg on a Hitch Receiver & it is not hooked up to a trailer ......

In Texas you just assume that there's something sticking out of the hitch. 90% stay loaded all the time, even in the cities.
However, I'm going to remove mine now, because that's the kind of thoughtful person I am.

Racer_X · Apr 15, 2024

GTyankee said:
Some cities have a Rule about hitches, if someone hurts their leg on a Hitch Receiver & it is not hooked up to a trailer ......

Then they shouldn't be that close to my truck!

62Blazer · Apr 15, 2024

The trouble with rust is that is good metal that is oxidizing and flaking away. Also not like it rusts just enough to get stuck and then just stops. The rust will continue eating away the good metal. It's not going to happen overnight, but after several years I would start getting concerned at how much metal is gone. Several years ago I helped a friend who wanted to change out hitch balls on a receiver shank that had been on his truck for years. When we pulled the shank out and wiped it down it was rusted so much it actually had holes in the metal! It was quite scary to think he had been pulling a trailer just the week before with that thing. Point being, in no way can you say it's good or better for something to be rusted in place.

TC Retired · Apr 15, 2024

Racer_X said:
Then they shouldn't be that close to my truck!

That's why I keep a step in my receiver if I am not pulling and the ball hitch otherwise. Living in a college town, someone is almost always 1/4 to 1/2 a car length on your b*tt even with snow/ice covered roads. Wisdowm comes with age and there are a lot that don't have any...

Mike P · Apr 15, 2024

HEMIMANN said:
Chassis Grease.

Trailer hitch is akin to a 5th wheel on a semi tractor - high load / slow motion. Medium or light soap (NLGI No. 1 or 2), heavy oil vis, MoS2 ('Moly') additive a must.

Retired Lubrication Engineer.

I never knew there was such a job as Lubrication Engineer...sounds like a pretty "slick" job.

LouM · Apr 15, 2024

I'm with the school of NEVER use grease it will collect and hold grit and grime and the ball shank will get locked in place and be almost unremovable. Powdered graphite will lube and not attract and hold dirt.

greasin that hitch

Senior Member

Senior Member

Senior Member

Senior Member

Senior Member

Senior Member

Senior Member

Senior Member

Senior Member

Senior Member

Senior Member

Member

Member

Senior Member

Senior Member

Member

Senior Member

Member

Junior Member

Senior Member

Similar threads

Forum statistics

Share this page