Never been pulled over in the 3+ years. Even in the city(Toronto)
And yes after the top brow and bottom your left with like 10 inches of clear glass.
But on the sunniest days, i never have glare of refection on the glass.
Top and bottom are 5% so even at night i can still see though...
Unless you have a tuner. Higher octane wont do anything. Higher octane has a higher tolerance for detonation. But the stock programming will change timing to prevent knock (detonation @ the wrong time). With a tuner, you can change this setting.
So in short , NO. You could put race fuel in and...
Engine & Emissions would be cummins. (At least in the class 8 world). All sensors and wiring harness on the engine and emissions system will also be cummins. All the engine dressing will be various vendors. (ie: fun clutch:horton/ starter: delco remy and so on) Only thing thats iffy is the...
I would say bring it to Cummins. I work at a Mack/Volvo dealer. When experiencing problems with a truck with a Cummins/CAT/DD that our techs cant fix. We ship it back to the origin of the Engine. Techs @ Cummins will know A LOT more about the engine side then a RAM tech. If you wanna drop me an...
Laws are different up here. Just curious.
But is it against the law to run with no mud flaps? If so, how are the dealers letting a vehicles go on the road. Without meeting DOT standards. Thats like shipping a truck out without headlights.
I guess it's different up here to the north, but i've...
Our laws up here are kindda vague. But thats good news for me. Laws stats that the driver must be able to see the rh corner of the hood unobstructed. Also be able to see the car in fronts tire contact the ground, unobstructed. So that 14 inches of clear window meets all those requirements.
I have never had a problem seeing at night on back roads. But then again thats why i kept the center clear. kindda the best of both words. No glare off the hood in the daytime, but can still see perfectly at night.
I'm a cummins dealer. If you can get me a part number i can get the dealer net price. Or better yet if i had an ESN# i could look it up.
Just a thought.... It's a slow day at work..... Big snow storm
wwhere do you go.
ajax (village)
pickering (durham)
both told me the same thing.
i patched a tire. then took it to them for a top up. and they said 25$.
i have one of these:
https://ca.napieroutdoors.com/store/catalogue/details/1/1/product_id:1/
only used twice.
it's for the 8foot box. New truck is only 6foot.
would prob sell real cheep...
trace out the belt route first. then remove lower valance. remove lower fan shroud. then just go ahead and back of tentioner. then just slid the belt off.
Heres a link to some lights i added last year. They are crazy bright.
http://www.ramforum.com/f41/auxiliary_led_lights_front_back-44972/
They are Grote 63f71. I'm going to try to find a data sheet for them.
Also guys, look at the UREA%....
UREA is the important part. DEF mostly water. I have seen some DEF from gas stations with under 20% UREA.
I work at a MACK truck dealer. Mack warranty is void if anything under 30% urea is used. This is checked by a refractometer.
Also to save money...
Don't know if this helps at all. But i have the same sound. Only happens when i go from high rpm down to idle. ie: wot then shift then sound then rpm climb. I have no tuner no cai. Only lifted with 34's. From what i can tell its the belt. Happens more and longer when the belt is wet.
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